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Cool Ford 7.3 diesel mod.


superhawk996

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You can run 5-40 year round in the 7.3, probably in the 6.0 too.  It's a bit more spendy, but not crazy.  Walmart has the Rotella T-6 for $20/gal. and there's often rebates available.  Walmart also has the Motorcraft filters pretty cheap and it's highly recommended to run them.  Have an oil analysis at 5k and you'll likely find that you can go much further safely, or just read other people's analysis and make a semi informed decision.

 

HotShot and Archoil additives, along with some others, are said to free up the spool valves on a 6.0.  5-40 may do the trick without additives.  With 15-40 my injectors would stick below 80 degrees, with 5-40 they're pretty good to about 65, but it's a totally different deal compared to the 6.0 injectors.

 

AE seems to be the holy grail and I'd love to have one, but they're spendy.  I spent about $60 on Torque Pro, the dongle, & a cheapo tablet.  If you have an android phone or radio you can use them as the 'gauge cluster'.  The only thing I couldn't see is the injector pulse width, but I didn't try to figure out why it wouldn't just work.  I might try at some point.  It's nice to know that the ICP and other control stuff is doing the right thing.  My main thing is to watch the trans temp when I'm towing my boat, at 13k lbs and over 13' tall it's a hearty load.  The transmission programming in the '02 is pretty smart and it seems to keep the temp in check without my input, earlier ones weren't as good.  The 6.0 auto is said to be pretty bulletproof, and it has a much bigger cooler than the 7.3.  If not for the emissions crap the 6.0 would be the better choice over all.  That engine is great once you address the things that will kill it, the trans is great, the truck is newer & nicer.  The later 6.0, like your '06, is a bit better than the early ones.

 

Mapmod: the 7.3 will de-fuel at around 25psi boost, safety thing.  If your exhaust pressure gets that high and you do the mod it'll de-fuel cutting back your peak power.  AE should let you see your EBP so you'll know if you'll be hitting that before you do the mod.  I don't think a stocker will, but different people report different boost and EBP with supposedly stock engines.  Another way to fool the MAP is with a resistor instead of connecting it to the EBP tube.  There's other super cheap power mods like putting a resistor in the oil temp sensor line, resistor in the ICP line, and others.

 

A highly recommended longevity mod for the 7.3 is a Ford AIS air filter.  The stock air boxes tend to become leaky.  If the box is good and you have a good filter they do a fine job, the AIS is a 'severe duty' system with a finer high capacity filter.  Might be the only cool looking high capacity thing we can legally have in California.

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The AE was about $360 when I bought it. No idea what they want now. It has saved me at least 10 times that in parts and service expense and has made me pretty popular with the folks around here who have powerstrokes. I've seen some stuff on Torque Pro and thought I might get it. But I don't have an Android phone

 

I'm reluctant to begin using HotShot or other additives because from what I've heard, once you start, you have to keep on with it until you get new injectors. If I start having run-time problems with stiction, I'll probably try some while waiting for a set of injectors.

 

I thought about the AIS but haven't had any problems with the stock airbox. And it's not real dusty around here, anywayI always use Motorcraft filters (fuel, oil, air). The oil filters for the 7.3 at walmart are only $10. No discernable blowby using the oil filler cap test. On the 6.0, a previous owner had put on a Banks airbox and filter. From what I've read about the 6.0, the stock filter outperforms all the aftermarket stuff until you go to big HP mods. So I traded my Banks for a stock airbox and stuck in a brand new filter. I priced a new oem box. It was around $500 if I recall. The filter itself was pretty expensive, but it seems to last forever.

 

I put coolant bypass filters on both PSDs. Not sure the 7.3 needs one, but it's cheap insurance. The 6.0 definitely needs one 'cause the oil cooler passages are so small. I also changed out the turbo pedestal on the 7.3 to get rid of the leaking EBP servo. Other than that, no mods. I did have an oil leak at the pan where the dipstick enters. It was not just a drip, either. So I got one of those billet dohickeys that replace the oem dipstick/pan interface and put it in. It works well but I think they got me for about $300. Still cheaper than pulling the engine or cutting the crossmember when you consider downtime as part of the expense. My 6.0 just has an egr delete installed by a previous owner. On trips I monitor the oil temp versus coolant temp since it's possible to have a catastrophic overheating situation with no warning from the stock instruments. I've toyed with the notion of just putting gauges in to monitor those items, but I'd rather work on my bikes.

 

I did a fair amount of research before I got my 6.0 and decided it would have to be an '06 or '07 for the reasons you mentioned. It was a high mileage truck, but that doesn't bother me much with a diesel. The FTE forum has been a great place for me to learn. As far as youtube goes, the only guy I've found who is straight up and very helpful is dieseltechron. Unfortunately he was killed in an accident a year or two back. I don't know if anyone has stepped up to fill his shoes.

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I think AE is currently a bit over $500.

 

I can't imagine that using the additives would then force them to always be used.  My guess is that once your injectors are sticky enough to need help from the additive they might require that you treat each oil change just to maintain them and keep them from sticking again.  I've read where some people only used it once to free up the injectors then didn't on the next oil change without problems.  If I had a 6.0 with cold stick I'd do an additive.  I did use the Archoil on mine early on before realizing that they're different beasts.  Archoil advertises a money back guarantee on the stuff and when it didn't work I got to test that.  I can say that they do at least stand behind their product.

 

I've thought about a coolant filter, but mine has bigger problems to address so extra stuff is going to take a back seat.  I did a coolant flush and changed to the red long life stuff, mostly because I was chasing oil or fuel in the coolant and couldn't figure out which one it was.  After the flush the petroleum stopped so apparently it was leftovers from a previous repair and they hadn't flushed it all out.  It has the sticky injectors, leaks a lot of oil, and a bit of PS fluid, but for 428K miles I can't bitch.  Blowby seems non-existent and other than the cold injector stick it runs great.  I took it to go shooting Sunday morning so I connected the block heater to a timer to start warming it at 4am, fired up great at 7:30 and as a bonus I had some heater love right from the start.  I didn't wanna leave it plugged in all night sucking up 1000watts of juice.

 

I've heard of the billet dipstick tube thing and yea, pay for the part or deal with the difficult repair.  I keep thinking I need to do something to mine preemptively, when they decide to go they're often a flood of oil.

 

Having the EGR delete on your 6.0 is a good thing being that it's one of the top killers of them.

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Is your 7.3 an early or late model?  And who are you on FTE?  I'm '88 E-350.  I mostly hang out on the 99-03 7.3 PS forum, and visit the alternative fuels and Excursion forums a little.  My 7.3 IDI is mostly fueled by WMO, I've only used it a little bit in the PS, kinda scared of messing it up.

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My 7.3 is a '99. Sort of a bastard year, but mine was built right at the beginning of the '99 engine upgrades. I forget the exact engine build date, but now I remember that I put in some of Clay's silicone hoses for the turbo piping and the intake plenum inserts. I have the larger intake plenum ports. I may have done some other stuff, too, but it has always been in the interest of longevity rather than boosting power. It's a truck, fer gods sakes! I'd rather have a fast motorcycle and a reliable truck than the other way around. Oh, and I also did ball joints and replaced a front hub when I first bought it. I'd like to replace the steering box. I also replaced the rear axle lube and put a cast aluminum differential cap on when it looked like the stamped steel one was weeping.

 

I rarely get to FTE anymore unless I have a question or problem to sort out. I'm alteet or alteetkt. I just use an auto login and I'm old, so those details are sometimes a bit fuzzy.

 

I've always wanted a good IDI! So now I've got a case of truck envy. Put up a pic. I've driven them and almost bought one 10 years ago. It was manual everything, no acceleration at all, but that sumbitch wouldn't stop fer nuthin.Don't remember why I didn't pull the trigger, but the guy was probably asking way more than it was worth.

 

What do you do to process your WMO? I never entertained the thought of running it in the PSD. As you know, the injector technology is real different and the HEUIs aren't nearly as tolerant of sketchy fuel. But I'd like to hear your thoughts and experience.

 

I had a long response to your previous post last night, but I nudged the power cord the wrong way and lost it. I'm sure it was full of wit and wisdom. One thing I will add, though, is that even in the cold (say around 15-20F) I only plug my block heater in for about 20 minutes before I start in the AM. I don't get instant cabin heat, but even that brief heating makes a huge difference.

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My WMO process is to put it through a 1 micron absolute bag filter, nothing else.  The filter is about 3' long and sits in a piece of metal ducting, I think 8" diameter, which rests on a 5 gallon bucket.  I punched a hole in the center of the bucket's lid and the duct sits on the lid.  I've done about 8 years and 20k miles on it, but some of that has been on diesel fuel.  The smaller front tank is for diesel and the larger rear tank is the junk container.  I try to end my drives on diesel but don't always remember to switch it in time.  I mostly run used engine oil along with ATF, hydraulic, gear oil, old gasoline, and whatever other petroleum waste products I get.  And occasionally cooking oils.  My IDI is an '88 E-350 and not pretty, no photos of it.  It's my work van, I'm a mobile mechanic.  I know a guy selling a clean IDI F-250 that's tempting, but I have no use for it.

 

I'd always assumed a diesel would run on waste oil and when this van popped up for $500 I jumped on it and started the experiment.  Initially I added one gallon of WMO to a nearly full tank of fuel and as I used the fuel I kept adding WMO figuring that at some point it would let me know that it was unhappy with the ratio.  When I hit damn near 100% oil and it still ran I was convinced.  The engine was already half fucked when I got it and seems more fucked up now, but don't know if the WMO has been a factor.  I've saved enough on fuel to make up for any damage I've caused it, guessing I'm up around $4k in fuel savings.  It smokes more on oil and there seems to be a cumulative effect when running around town.  On the highway there seems to be no difference between the different fuels.

 

If filtered well I don't think it would be a problem for the HEUI as long as the viscosity is low.  I've run oils a few times in it but I was more picky about what went in, mostly ATF and old oils that weren't used.  I briefly ran about 40/60 waste/diesel and it didn't smoke or do anything weird even on cold starts, but I only did that one time.  I've run light mixtures several times at around 40:1 diesel:oil.  It seems to be quieter on oil, so was the IDI, guessing the oil has a lower cetane and the combustion is a bit slower. Power seems the same in both engines with the different fuels.

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I like your approach to  WMO use. Do you have a steady supplier or is it what you harvest out of vehicles you work on? I'm surprised the HEUI injectors work well on it as I figured the viscosity would be an issue. A few years back when diesel prices went north of $4.00/ gal, I looked into doing biodiesel. The process looked pretty straightforward and, being in the land of much fried food, I reckoned on a steady supply of raw material. But then I realized I'd have to sign up to a steady schedule of picking up waste oil and that killed it for me. Other factors intervened as well, including a substantial price reduction at the pump.

 

My Ford 5000 tractor has completely mechanical fuel injection, though. I wonder how it would run on WMO. It's a 1975 model and I got it specifically to deal with maintenance of the patch of dirt I call home. A knowledgeable friend gave me purchase advice since I'd never owned a tractor. He said "There's no such thing as too much tractor." and "Don't buy the first one you look at."

I followed his advice with blind faith and got this beast (69 HP at the pto) with 38" wheels. It was the second tractor I looked at. I had to do a bit of work: rebuilt the front axles and steering linkage (my first real ride on it was pretty scary: it tops out at 17 mph in 8th and I was challenged to stay out of the ditch on both sides of a 2 lane highway) and I pulled the engine and rebuilt it top and bottom. And since I had the tractor split, I replaced the clutch. I'll attach a before and after. She still looks pretty good, but she's a workin' girl, so some of the shine has dimmed.

 

But I'm way off course here. Not sure this even belongs on a motorcycle forum...

00M0M_ad2bCmeb4mt_1200x900.thumb.jpg.7a21d90871ee88f2f8e2d4a02e57de74.jpg

 

Above is before I got her.IMG_1113.thumb.JPG.eebf83c3c1de9cb478765652ad96a7aa.JPG

 

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Mostly just from the stuff I work on, and a few people give me their stuff here & there.  Viscocity is supposedly an issue for HEUI and I hear it can mess them up.  I assume because it makes them work harder to inject.  I also hear that low fuel pressure, like from a plugged up filter, will screw them up but I don't know why.  Mechanical systems are also said to not like high viscosity.  I liked the idea of bio, but the more I looked into it the more difficult it looked to do properly.  And the IDI supposedly needs all the fuel hoses replaced to a different material for it.  Plus I'm a mechanic, not a cook, so I'd have to go find veggie oil then dispose of my WMO so burning it made more sense.  The 7.3 PS is bio friendly even tho it's not advertised, don't know about the 6.0.  The tractor should be fine other than possibly the hoses or other rubber parts, I've heard that some don't do well with bio.  Or maybe the hose issue is for running straight veggie oil, don't remember.  I ran SVO in the IDI once, about 10 gallons, seemed to run the same as anything else I've put in.  I did warm it up completely before switching over to it and it was burned on a straight highway run towing my Scarab.  Being that it was the only time I towed the boat with it I couldn't say how performance compared to other fuels.  It felt good to be towing for 'free', I was jazzed.  I also hadn't gotten to play with that boat much so I was pretty excited about it too, I miss that thing.  I've heard horror stories about running cold SVO, I think it's supposed to be heated to around 180 or so before injection.  I throw bits of SVO into the WMO filter here & there, but rarely.

 

It would be completely wrong to post about your tractor in a bike forum, luckily you're at the .org where anything goes....except for breaking the one rule we do have.  There's no such thing as too much tractor, unless it's bigger than your yard.  That thing in my yard would look silly, but it's cool as hell so I'd own it just for that.  And good job on prettying it up, it looks spectacular.  A friend has a super old Ford tractor I could probably get for free and I keep thinking about it, but force myself to just say no.  Total rust bucket, looks like it shouldn't run, but it did 'till the starter died.  It's smaller than yours and has a 4 cyl. gas motor.  I'm guessing it's about 7' long.  I have no real need for it, it would be handy once in a while, 99% of the time it would just be another thing in the way.  Your tractor should do fine on WMO.  I've read a few horror stories about WMO but don't know the cause of their failures.  I'm the only one I've seen post about using it long term, details are on FTE in the diesel alternative fuels forum.  Before trying it I posted questions, I think in the IDI forum, and mostly 'got I wouldn't do that shit if I were you' warnings.  In my more recent update I again heard "you've been lucky, it ain't gonna last long".  The only semi-special thing I do is the 1 micron filter, some say that's way overkill, some say that no matter how well it's filtered it'll kill the engine and/or injection system.  Maybe that filter has some special qualities that make my WMO safer than other's, but I doubt it.  I also run a pretty heavy dose of DieselCleen in the diesel tank, maybe it helps.  I'd heard good things about it so it's a feel-good thing I've been doing since the beginning.  It used to be common practice for guys doing their own oil changes to just pour the drain pan into the fuel tank, no settling or filtering.  But that's just a few gallons of oil into a huge tank of diesel once in a while so very different than running a huge amount all the time.

 

I've got a medical centrifuge I'm thinking about modifying to treat the WMO before filtering.  Many say that using a centrifuge is key and they seem to know what they're talking about, but they also say that it eliminates the need to filter which I don't buy.  I assume there's going to be some junk in the oil that's lighter than the oil and the centrifuge can't eliminate that stuff.  I think it'll mostly just help make my filter last longer, and maybe it'll remove some stuff that the filter doesn't.  Next time I dump my filtered oil, later today if I remember, I wanna see if there's gunk in the bottom of the bucket.  If so then the centrifuge might actually do something that the filter doesn't.  When waste oil sits there's always a gunk layer that settles out, I don't know if the filter eliminates whatever that stuff is.  I think the centrifuge should get rid of it.

 

It's still cold out but time to go be productive.  Been a good week, work every day and other than two jobs they've all been brought to my house, and mostly cash customers.  I also managed to get two free 'dead' batteries that I rejuvenated and put into my electric car.

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The bottom of my filtered oil bucket has a thick layer of goo.  It's kinda like low viscosity grease, and the blackness sticks like the silver from anti-seize.  Guessing it's carbon and/or soot from engine blow-by.  Looks like I should push that centrifuge project up the to-do list.

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Thanks for the nice comments about my tractor. I never knew how much I wanted one 'till I got it.

 

I think I remember folks posting about running unprocessed SVO in their IDI's. Said the exhaust smelled like popcorn. It might be worth running it in town in a small town like mine just for the effect. And I reckon the tractor would probably do fine on it, too, as long as most of the french fries and pork cracklin's have been removed. But I think you're right that it has to be warm enough to work well. When fuel prices go up next year, I might be real tempted to try.

 

As far as all the dire warnings you get about running WMO, I suspect it's mostly from folks who have never tried it. Somehow human nature seems to include a tendency to forecast dire results from trying stuff that's a bit out of the box. Not sure why, but I guess some folks get a kick out of sayin' "I told you so!" when shit hits the fan, whether or not there is a causal relationship. I'm not sure your 1 micron filter is really overkill, 'cause filters are rated based on percentages of particles of a given size that get through, I think. Even a 1 micron filter will let some fraction of larger particles through which explains why a lot of systems run tandem filters. First one gets out, say, 98% of the crud and the second one gets out 98% of what the first filter didn't. But the fact that you're not finding any  pebbles in the sludge at the bottom of your container is comforting. I suspect the IDI would burn anti-seize if you could force it through the injectors. I forget the rating on the HEUI fuel filters, but it might be as high as 10 micron. I'm just too lazy to look it up.

 

And I'll bet that if you treated all you WMO with the centrifuge, you could practically  get away without filtering it at all.But that assumes that the density of the objects you want to remove is greater than the density of the stuff you want to keep. Speaking of what foreign material might be in used motor oil, have you ever had an oil analysis done bu someone like Blackstone? I should probably start doing that with my trucks, but I'm afraid it will just give me something else to worry about. I sort of figure that if you keep clean oil in them and keep the fuel, oil and coolant in their own respective habitats, the thing is gonna run until something catastrophic happens. I'm not sure it would change my behavior much to know that my zinc levels were elevated, but I'm sure there would be a corresponding increase in my blood pressure!

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From memory the pre-heating is supposed to reduce/eliminate issues from the glycerin in veggie oils screwing stuff up, the stuff that's removed when you turn it into biofuel.

 

When fuel prices go up.....Buaahahahaha!!!  I'll bet my lowest is higher than your high.  We're averaging around $3.80/gal right now, which is down from where it was recently.  Cheapest I found in my area on Gasbuddy is $3.65.  Last time it spiked bad, right after I bought the IDI, we were in the $5 neighborhood.  Ca. bones us on everything; part of the reason I make ammo, make fuel, make cigarettes, unsuccessfully make liquor, etc.

 

My bag filter is 1 micron absolute so that's the max size it's supposed to allow past.  Common filter ratings are "nominal" and are as you described where XX percentage of larger stuff will pass through.  On a nominal rating mine might be 1/4 micron or less.  And it has some specially treated exterior surface so that no loose filter particles can come off, I wanna say they were sintered, but not sure.  MSRP was rifuckingdiculous on them, I got a smokin deal on a 6 pack because someone had opened the package so they were no longer suitable for whatever super sensitive equipment they were designed for.  I have only one new one left and the one in service is damn near plugged up, I need to start shopping ASAP.  I think the 7.3PS filter is 14 micron and the 6.0 is 5, I assume both are nominal ratings so some larger stuff is let though.  I assume that normal fuel contamination is dust and a 14 micron dust particle probably doesn't do much damage.  WMO is going to have metal particles which could do a lot more damage at the same size so I went for the extreme filter.

 

The goo in my bucket is very silky smooth, almost makes me want to load it into my grease gun.  But some of that goo must be making its way into my fuel tanks which doesn't make me happy.

 

Any time you think of doing something way out of the box lots of people will tell you it aint gonna work.  I'm guessing it's just a natural reaction.  If you could run your engine off of waste products everyone would be doing it, and since they're not, you're obviously insane.  Even among those close to me there was some doubt, but the common reaction was something along the lines of if it can be done you'll be the one to do it.

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I like CA but you guys do pay a huge premium to live there. But there's perks to living there, too. I moved out of Illinois about 15 years ago 'cause it is simply a shitty place to live. You pretty much have to leave the state to enjoy yourself. The one notable exception being the Chicago lakefront in the summertime. In fact, the city of Chicago is a blast in the summer (which is short), and really sucks during the winter (which is long, harsh and cold). North Carolina ain't perfect, but the western part of the state is damn close, particularly if you like to ride motorcycles, shoot guns, make likker, do really stupid stuff, etc. I'm enjoying my retirement.

 

I guess I didn't realize what a super duper filter you use on you WMO and was just assuming something like the automotive applications I'm familiar with.  Goo in the tank isn't good but I'm thinking less of a problem with the IDI. I thought your fuel pump was mechanical mounted on the engine rather than in-tank like the PSD. Thinking about it, I guess the goo in your bucket is what settles out of the fuel that sits in there after filtering. I don't know how long it sits, but I do know that particles in suspension will stay in suspension with very little agitation. Relative specific gravities (fluid versus particle) play a big role, but so does particle size. At those sizes, the particles may experience substantial  brownian motion which may help to keep them in suspension. But now I'm just doing stream of consciousness speculation. Why don't you take a sample from your tank it run it through the centrifuge? That could potentially answer a few questions: Is there enough goo left in the filtered fuel to worry about what's happening in my tanks? Is it settling out in my tanks or is it being kept in suspension by driving?  Is the centrifuge a better way to remove the goo particles from the WMO? And it would give you an excuse to play with your centrifuge.

 

But back to tractor talk... The rust bucket old Ford you're looking at is probably from the '50's. I'm not very knowledgeable about them, but the 8N model was very popular and it was on that or similar model tractors that Ford popularized the 3-point hitch setup that is practically universal today. Ford bought the rights to the 3-pt from it's inventor, I think. Anyhow. those early tractors were fairly lethal in that they were prone to flipping backwards when hitched to a heavy load and driven aggressively. However, they have a serious fan club of restoration folks (one of my neighbors rehabbed one a few years back) and I think parts are generally available. Sometime in the late '60's or early ''70's Ford went to it's "world tractor" concept where it made a single base product that was manufactured around the world and outfitted in local markets with the stuff required to fit their applications.. My '75 is representative of that product line as produced for the US. They were originally made in England and shipped around the world, and I think mine was imported.

 

Anyhow, I use mine to lift tree trunks to facilitate cutting them up with a chainsaw (I get a lot of deadfall), pull fenceposts, lift heavy stuff and run a chipper. I put the ROP (Roll Over Protection device, or roll bar to most of us) on 'cause I live on hilly terrain and the rather frequent tractor accidents I hear about around here keep me pretty paranoid. Also, if you do get a tractor that runs, please never start it from any position other than sitting in the seat. They are real easy to start in gear and can be real hard to stop in gear and a tractor rolling over you is pretty much guaranteed to fuck you up, though I know folks who have lived to tell the tale.

 

All right, enough coffee and wandering narrative! Time to get something done, I reckon.

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Fuel, vehicle registration, taxes, insurance....everything costs more.  Our annual registration fee is based on the value of the vehicle, the minimum registration for older low value cars & bikes is now around $130 and supposedly going up again in 2019.  Pickups & cargo vans pay an additional weight fee, usually around $100.  My buddy was in line at DMV talking to the guy next to him who was there to pay the registration on his McClaren, $2,500!  Oddly, boats & trailers are still super cheap to register, I don't get it.  The weather is pretty awesome, especially here in So.Cal, and we have mountains, deserts, ocean; lots of stuff that no other state has.  Pretty sure we're the only one with legal lane splitting which makes bike riding pretty awesome if you need to get around in traffic.  Our fuel tax was up for vote to get it reduced and it didn't pass.  Not because people wanted it, but because the way it was written people who didn't read the details accidentally voted to keep the higher tax level.  I wouldn't doubt that whoever wrote the ballot sheet did it on purpose.

 

The IDI does have a mechanical engine mounted pump.  It's down low like most gas engine pumps, the early PS had the mechanical pump in the valley before they went to the electric, I think that change was in '97.  If I can get my endoscopic camera down the filler tube I'll run the tank down and see if I can see any sludge.  I think it has an anti-syphon device so the camera might not work.  The oil sometimes sits in that bucket for weeks as I add some here & there, sometimes I filter and pour as soon as it's done; all depends on how much I have in the van's tank and how much waste I have waiting to be filtered.

 

'50s sounds right for the tractor just based on the engine and my guessing.  If he's ready to give it away I'd be a fool not to take it, it should be worth a few bucks to someone even if it's not a lot.  He has a trailer I can use for free, but I'll have to get it running first so it can be moved & loaded.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I ran some of my filtered WMO through the centrifuge and a scary amount of goo was pulled out of it.

 

I haven't set it up to actually process the stuff yet, but it has moved to the top of the projects list.  It has 4 steel baskets designed to hold test tubes and a sealed bowl around them.  I'm going to poke a hole in the bowl for an outlet and rig up a way to direct the incoming oil to the bottom of the baskets.  The clean oil will overflow them, hit the bowl, and drain out into a container or maybe directly to the bag filter...hopefully.  At full speed the centrifuge creates about 3,500Gs at the top of each basket and 6,000 at the bottom, that's some pretty serious shit.

 

I found the receipt for the filters.  I bought 8 of them in late 2008 for $40 shipped and now installing my last one.

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