Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum
Sign in to follow this  
jon haney

Blackbird drag race parts

Recommended Posts

27 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

How are the millions of factory turbo cars surviving?

 

I don't see how giving the cylinder no fuel can be damaging, please explain.

Well, they don`t . Number of turbo Subarus have been killed by owners mindlessly  running against fuel cut. In port injection engines  injection cycle does not necessarily happen when intake valve is opened. So you may get some fuel still in the intake track even when injector is not spraying. Lean condition and engine may go kaboom. In rotary engine all it takes is one detonation event to kill it.

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Furbird said:

If you had clicked on my link, you would have read what I was referring to.  But I figured I'd let somebody else chime in so I didn't catch all the flak.

That article is full of retarded shit.  The photo is of a guy holding pistons from a Diesel engine, which run super lean all the damn time and generally outlast gas motors.  The beginning text is about 2 strokes being extra susceptible to lean mixtures because of the lack of fuel; no.  It's because in a 2 stroke running pre-mix the fuel is carrying the only oil the engine gets so a lean mix means a lack of oil.  The retardedness continued so I kinda tuned out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, tomek said:

Well, they don`t . Number of turbo Subarus have been killed by owners mindlessly  running against fuel cut. In port injection engines  injection cycle does not necessarily happen when intake valve is opened. So you may get some fuel still in the intake track even when injector is not spraying. Lean condition and engine may go kaboom. In rotary engine all it takes is one detonation event to kill it.

If Subaru is so retarded that they don't use sequential injection, which I assume everyone does by now, then that could cause damage.  For all the others that do use sequential injection, which has been pretty standard since at least the 90's, it shouldn't be a problem.  I can't imagine Subaru is that retarded so I'm guessing those kaboomed Subarus weren't stock and had some tuning done that may have fucked with injection timing.  Also some 'tuned' turbo cars use an auxiliary injector to supply extra fuel on demand through the air intake, in those cases cutting the port injection would cause a lean condition.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BTW, the fact that diesels run super lean is unknown by MANY people who know about engines.  I put my van on a smog test machine just for fun (wanted to see how dirty my waste oil fuel was compared to real diesel fuel) and right away the tech said "this thing is running super lean, you need to fix that".  The oxygen percentage of the exhaust indicated a guesstimated 50:1 air/fuel ratio.  This guy has been an engine tinkerer for decades and can't wrap his mind around the fact that diesels don't rely on air/fuel ratios.

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sequential injection does not have follow intake cam opening cycle. There is more to it then just spraying into opened intake port.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's exactly what sequential injection means from everything I've read.  There's a sequence of events and the events are the injection and valve movement.  Tho probably not spraying at open valve, but attached to the timing of the valve opening.  Regardless the exact timing, whether it be at open valve or XX degrees before opening, there's one shot per intake stroke.

 

If that's wrong, please explain what you know about it.

 

 

As for the timing, I'd a assume that shooting it before valve opening, and possibly right after valve closing, would allow the fuel time to vaporize and the engine would run cleaner.  Maybe shooting at open valve under heavy load to get a little better cylinder cooling.  Just theories, I've never even thought of the timing 'till now.  Injection timing is adjustable on two of my cars, would be interesting to play with it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don`t have time here to educate you. Get a good engineering book.

  Something for you to think about, injector duty cycle can go up to something like 70 % or 250 deg of crankshaft rotation on stock ECU. Even longer on aftermarket or chipped ECU.

 Intake cam timing on turbo car is lower then that, and the time when the air actually flows into a cylinder is even lower. Obviously there is a fuel in the intake track before  and after injector and intake cycle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If injection started shortly after valve closing, which after a quick googling seems pretty normal, it would allow for about double that 250 degrees of crank rotation time needed; wouldn't it?

 

As far as a good engineering book, I have no idea what to search for; can you suggest a good one?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Furbird said:

If nothing else, at least it's keeping this post at the top of the page...

What was the subject again?  Oh yes, Blackbird drag parts for sale:D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup.

I'm still waiting to hear the price on the ignition system, but this other stuff is very interesting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/31/2018 at 6:31 PM, superhawk996 said:

Two step is two rev limiters.  You can set one for your burnout RPM limit and one for your launch RPM limit...or whatever.  The timing retard can be used for nitrous or boost, tho ideally for boost it would be a retard curve instead of a fixed retard.  Could also be used on a high compression motor to retard for pump gas for street riding and then take out the retard for full timing advance on race gas.  The system also bumps up the spark energy to ensure a good spark with the extra cylinder pressure of boost or nitrous.

 

 

Ok, just cuz I gotta know....  Price for the ignition?  And is it something that has to be cut & spliced in or plug & play?

Yes, plug & play, but finding space under the seat (if totally stock) to mount the unit might be difficult.  Coils are included, and can be mounted in the stock location with spacers and one longer bolt (included).  The plug wires that come with it do not have plug boots, so you have to use the stock ones.  Easy to switch.  $100 to your door.

See pics for my set-up.

20180604_124652_resized.jpg

20180604_124740_resized.jpg

20180604_124756_resized.jpg

Edited by jon haney

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/31/2018 at 7:02 PM, partsman said:

Jon, I'm not really in need of anything but the single stage lock up intrigues me, but have no idea if it will be helpful for my set up, never used one before. Right now the bastard race bike won't even start.

I'll take the mirror block offs. My shifter is elec over air (Pingel, not crazy about it) but I bought a co2 regulator to go on the standard size bottle.You running a small bottle under the seat? I was thinking just using a paint ball bottle. Pm with prices.

Also, if your on Facebook, there is the Modified Blackbirds page, should be able to move the stuff there.

Yes, 9 oz. bottle under seat, with modified inner fender.  See pic above.  It was sitting beside the Dyna unit, and tucked under the cross-brace that holds the seat latch.

Edited by jon haney

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On the fuel kill issue, as it relates to motorcycles, is a wonderful thing, especially if you run a lot of nitrous.  Fuel kill stops the back-firing when shifting.  Guessing that the "lean condition" that Tomek is referring to is not a problem for engines with a separate throttle body for each cylinder.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll take it, PM on the way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/31/2018 at 5:50 PM, XXitanium said:

...most of that is jargon to me. No use on street bikes, right?

Probably not, but I do have some pretty black peg lowering brackets that would be great for a street Bird.

The one with the notch goes on the right to clear the rear brake master.  Moves rear sets down and back about 1.25".

 

PLB.jpg

Edited by jon haney
  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, jon haney said:

Probably not, but I do have some pretty black peg lowering brackets that would be great for a street Bird.  Will have pic in an hour or so.

 

 

Hobi's painted? The kid might like a set. I never looked to see if there were any on his.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
41 minutes ago, XXitanium said:

 

Hobi's painted? The kid might like a set. I never looked to see if there were any on his.

Nope.  Made these myself.  They are aluminum.  Used an AutoCAD generated trace pattern, old table saw, file, and palm sander.  Plus drill and tap.  The powder-coat hides the imperfect edges.

Edited by jon haney

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BUMP.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/5/2018 at 12:37 PM, jon haney said:

Probably not, but I do have some pretty black peg lowering brackets that would be great for a street Bird.

The one with the notch goes on the right to clear the rear brake master.  Moves rear sets down and back about 1.25".

 

PLB.jpg

 

I've been thinking about it, how much would you need for them - shall we go to PMs?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×