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Coil Paks and JB Weld


XXitanium

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I fast forwarded through both.

 

Knowing that JB weld has iron in it I'm thinking it could pose a problem embedding several electrical connectors in it.

 

As far as paying a shop, if it looks like a pain in the ass you either deal with that pain or the pain in your wallet.  But in many cases it's not worth the pain in the ass if you're not well practiced and well equipped to do the repair.

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Not a VW guy.  What is the problem with the factory coils?  And what the hell is the JB Weld supposed to do in the second video?  Besides make all the plugs fire together.

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It the miss is constant it could be a valve, intermittent miss very unlikely a valve.  If a valve is burnt and it has a lot of miles and you plan to keep it it might be better to do a whole rebuild/replacement.

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I went and talk to the mechanic this morning. He agve me a printout with bad valve diagnosed. Talked about 45 minutes about getting a replacement from the junk yard I got this from 90 day warranty or some such - the engine should be good etc.

 

I drove it four blocks and parked it in the sun. Ten hours later in the cold and dark I went out to drive it home (he said a bad exhaust valve - 70% gone - wouldn't hurt to drive it with hole one mostly dead). I started it up. The service engine light is gone - out cold. The car is quiet. The engine is running smoothly. It is a huge pleasure to drive home. My loaner was  a Saturn 4dr.    I really disliked it. 

 

They did replace a small vacuum hose that was cracked. They did also replace the "rear O2 sensor and put a piece of pipe in place of the rusted out resonator.

 

......four hours of diagnostics though?

 

9 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

It the miss is constant it could be a valve, intermittent miss very unlikely a valve.  If a valve is burnt and it has a lot of miles and you plan to keep it it might be better to do a whole rebuild/replacement.

 

...I was thinking crate motor. It's running good and my wife is relieved though.  I'll have to wait and see.

 

The guy that did the replacement - different mechanic said he'd be available to do a confirmation test - cheap. He's in disbelief.

Edited by XXitanium
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The engine was replaced by a one man shop. It ran pretty well. I got it back December 4th. The resonator rusted open before Chrustmas. I parked it with about 450 miles on it because the hot exhaust smelled like it was heating up the floorboards.

 

Son no.2 (who should buy your truck) is driving my F250 now. His window broke while he was trying to fix the electric wdw motor. Coincidentally, I had made an appointment at the shop accross the tracks from work for the muffler and O2 sensor for the VR6. They are a larger shop with more than one tech. They ran codes and did a pressure test. They said hole no. 1 is 70 pct leaking.

 

I took it back at lunch to see what they say. They are also customers of the salvage yard. My understanding they will cover labor if it falls under warranty.

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On 1/17/2018 at 11:40 AM, XXitanium said:

 

I took it back at lunch to see what they say. They are also customers of the salvage yard. My understanding they will cover labor if it falls under warranty.

That's good news.

 

My truck is sitting while I wait for the title to arrive.  If it comes back clean I'll probably do the body work and cash in.  I had two friends considering buying it that would have taken it with the generic transfer papers, strangers generally want to see a title so I haven't advertised it yet.  Regardless, the buddy deal price still applies until I fork out for the body work.  His ins. co. assessed it just under $8k market value, don't know what they go for in your area.  Probably hard to asses something this old with low miles and no rust in your area.  Plus factoring in the cost to get it there.

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...talked with shop no. 2 again, the salvage yard has a $50.00 per hour allowance and his shop rate is$100.00 so there is an exposure there.

 

Shop no.1 said to bring it in again. He thinks it's worth testing the cylinder again. 

 

I've brought that damn truck in conversation dozens of times at the house. You'd think they would get it. I'm considering the bow-tie, it must look like good deal.  ...no attention being paid to dad/hubby.

 

I hate it when I'm right,

 

 

 

 

...and nobody listened.

 

If I got serious - I would offer to throw a couple hundred extra on top and get it aligned. ...then consider flying out and driving it home.

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1 & 6 might share a coil.  If they aren't getting spark and you gotta drive it I'd disconnect those injectors.  The random multiple misfire could be a result of the two dead ones throwing the system off.

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8 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

1 & 6 might share a coil.  If they aren't getting spark and you gotta drive it I'd disconnect those injectors.  The random multiple misfire could be a result of the two dead ones throwing the system off.

They do fire (at the same time?) snd that is what he said 1 takes 6 down.

 

So I am pumping raw gas out the ehaust and taxing the cat?

 

...we don't do anual emmissions out here in the wilderness BTW.

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2 hours ago, XXitanium said:

They do fire (at the same time?) snd that is what he said 1 takes 6 down.

 

So I am pumping raw gas out the ehaust and taxing the cat?

 

...we don't do anual emmissions out here in the wilderness BTW.

The cylinders don't fire at the same time, but the coils do.  While one cylinder is on the ignition stroke and using the spark the other is on the exhaust so that spark just gets wasted.  If the coil's dead then yea, you're dumping gas.  Not only hurting the cats, but probably doing a bit of fuel contamination to the oil and contaminating/washing away the oil film on those cylinder walls.  If unplugging the injectors makes it run shittier then it means the coil is working, tho it could be not working quite right.  Or maybe there's something else causing the miss.

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2 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

 Or maybe there's something else causing the miss.

 

The guy that did the original swap has it back. We had a chat. The engine was less than $800. He charged $600 for the complete swap. I added a clutch and the O2 sensor is on the age of the car - muffler too.

 

He is saying he'll stand behind it. I think I may have been better off getting a crate motor, not setup for racing, but durability, and just going that route.

 

image.png.ebec0323b1ab90e14f94916313521a15.png

 

I put a bug in the kid's ear about the truck again this morning.

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I did some more reading on JB weld and while it is magnetic, it's not conductive just as they say.

 

My clean title came in the mail today.  It's possible that it'll still get reported and someone's just slacking, or it slipped through the cracks.  The insurance guy/people screwed up on some other stuff so I'm not too surprised they didn't report the salvage.

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Interesting how this seems to have come full circle.

 

After all that, the first mechanic installed the coil pak from my old engine. It seems to be running well like it did initially.

 

He didn't charge me anything. (Does Rockauto.com seel gift certificates?)

 

Hopefully it holds.

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