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Won"t start. 1997 carb


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I think there's a 'main fuse', I wanna say it's on the left side near the battery but it's been a while.  Verify all fuses with a test light or meter with the key off and on.  I've found some with a hairline crack that wasn't obvious and have found glass fuses where the solder melts and the fuse wire is intact, and there's also the possibility of corrosion that'll show voltage on a fuse but will not pass enough current to keep voltage with the key on, hence testing with a load.  From there I'd say to check for a bad ignition switch or connection to the switch.  Maybe wiggle the key on-off and see if anything happens even if a brief flicker.

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I checked the '97 manual and there is a main fuse, 30a and it appears to be outside the box of other fuses.  Odd that the clock works if the main is bad, but check it anyway.

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I checked manual. it said listen for click at starter relay when key turned to start.  No click for me, further inspection appears to show some melting, first tried to remove the red relay switch connector and couldn't, I think some corrosion or melting sorta welded the plastic together, you can see the plastic broke apart trying to separate. now the search for replacement parts. think I should need the red portion and the little black box it plugs into. any suggestions on my quest for parts. thanks for advice, you got me moving forward.

starter relay1.jpg

starter relay2.jpg

Edited by Shoe
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Is that the main fuse in that box or a relay?  Either way you can get replacements at any auto parts store.  Cut your wires back as far as needed to get to good clean copper and splice in the replacement.  While you're there also pick up some marine heat shrink butt connectors to make a nice waterproof and vibration resistant connection and you should be set for life.  When you crimp the connectors don't use a crimper with the point on it, use the smooth flat or curved type so it doesn't cut through the heat shrink material.

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The manual labels the parts as the starter relay switch (black) and the red as relay switch connector. got the starter relay switch from amazon, less than $8.00,says will arrive Monday, tougher time with relay switch connector and speedy deliver, will check out auto parts store I suppose.

 

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There's one size/type relay that's used on a billion things, then there's all the other ones.  As for the common one there's a 5 leg and a 4 leg version, the 5 will work in place of a 4 but not the other way around.  I often find 5s in places where they're only using 4 legs, probably cheaper to just have a 'one fits all' part than to use 2 different ones.

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Those connectors look like they had corroded for a while.

Oscar's advice is spot on.

Cut back the wiring until you get to clean conductors.

Use quality connectors, and a good set of crimpers.

I like to solder mine too.

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I just realized that you stated this is the starter relay which would have nothing to do with the headlight and other stuff powering up when you turn the key on.  Either you've identified it as the wrong part or there's something else wrong with the bike.  I can only see two wires in your picture which would indicate a fuse and not a relay; how many wires are there?

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Going into red capped portion there are a total of five wires, with two green/stripped wires going into the same port. total four ports under red section and 30 amp fuse. There are also two heavy duty thick wires that go to the black portion. One in and one out. this thick wire comes straight from the battery 7 inches or so of wire. when I disconnect this(starter relay) to bring to auto parts store the clock went blank.  The(starter relay) should arrive today in the mail and I picked up heat shrink and connectors. might not have time to fiddle with it today.

starterrelay.jpg

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15 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

86 degree ocean….where are you?

Fort Pierce Florida. Got to get out and fix the XX this evening. She goes in the living room when wind and ran threaten. Need some horsepower to drive her up the makeshift ramp and through the front door.

 

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4 hours ago, Shoe said:

Fort Pierce Florida. Got to get out and fix the XX this evening. She goes in the living room when wind and ran threaten. Need some horsepower to drive her up the makeshift ramp and through the front door.

 

I was guessing Fl.  Wind & rain….don't worry about it, there's a nice strong hurricane coming to push that pesky little stuff away.

 

Mine live inside too, my 'ramp' is a couple 4x4s and a 2x4 to bump up to the door sill and without the motor it's a mother fucker to get up that without banging the door frame.  I can get the front up ok with a rolling start and both mirrors folded for extra wiggle room but there's not much roll space to gain momentum for the rear to bump up.  Even my 300# bike is hard to get in without power.  Normally I just need to fold one mirror on the XX to get in/out safely.  When I had my 999s they fit easily even tho the mirrors don't fold.  I'm guessing those bikes were no wider at the mirrors than a manly man's shoulders.  Now that I think of it they were barely wide enough to be usable for my skinny frame.  I miss those uncomfortable ass bikes.  When I win the lotto I might buy one just for the visual and auditory enjoyment.

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