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oil level rising


fizzy

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    I did my first oil change about 800 miles ago, and checked the level a few times and it was spot on. Checked level yesterday and was higher than the add mark by 1/2 pint (assuming 1 pint between marks). Also has very slight gas smell to it.

  

  I pulled vacuum line off fuel pressure reg and turned on ignition to check for fuel. Nothing, it was dry, as was vacuum line.

 

  The only way fuel can get into oil is thru fpr, right?  Unless someone has another solution I guess I will change fpr (and oil).

 

  Am I correct that I should use newer version from 2001 model and up p/n 16740 MAT E22?   Bike is a 2000.

 

 

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Change it now, just to be safe.  When mine went out, it filled the entire engine.  Fuel was actually above the butterflies in two of the throttle bodies.  Put on quite the show when I pulled out the plugs and hit the starter.

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Petcock self-sealing?

 

I had a jerk mechanic sabotage my petcock to cover for another guy who dumped crap in my tank and claimed I got bad gas.  In the time I had to wait for a replacement petcock to arrive, the gravity feed overflowed my carbs and filled the engine pistons...which then drained into the engine block.  This did no damage, but I had to completely drain the engine and put in fresh oil after fixing the petcock.  The petcock was vacuum driven, so removing a key spring kept it from closing when shut down.

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Injector sticking could do it.

pull the dipstick and smell. Should have no gas smell.

I would not run it without changing it first.

OEM or quality oil filter?  They should have a internal check valve ( rubber flapper) that prevents oil from leaking back into the crankcase.

also, how and when did you check it.  5 minutes after running, dip stick not screwed in,  or after a night off, dipstick fully screwed in.  Any of the above could cause a measurement change.

 

But even a short run with diluted oil will ruin a engine.

 

 

Edit,

I remember reading that the FPR diaphram can tear and allow fuel to leak.  You should be able to remove the vacuum hose off of the regulator. No fuel should be in it. If so, bad FPR.

 

A

Edited by redxxrdr
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1 hour ago, Aunt Zero said:

Petcock self-sealing?

 

I had a jerk mechanic sabotage my petcock to cover for another guy who dumped crap in my tank and claimed I got bad gas.  In the time I had to wait for a replacement petcock to arrive, the gravity feed overflowed my carbs and filled the engine pistons...which then drained into the engine block.  This did no damage, but I had to completely drain the engine and put in fresh oil after fixing the petcock.  The petcock was vacuum driven, so removing a key spring kept it from closing when shut down.

 

If it's got an FPR it's injected and there's no petcock.

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 Ok, so would a bad fpr  send gas into oil when engine running, or engine off?

 

 Secondly, what are symptoms of bad injector and how do I test them?

 

 Background on bike:  New to me 3500 miles ago.  Starts and runs fine.  Did loom fix.  No FI light. Exhaust tips slightly sooty

 

 Initial gas mileage 35mpg. Been adding 1/3 bottle of seafoam or equal to every tank.  Mileage steadily increased to latest 41mpg. Always check oil with dipstick unscrewed, engine cool.

 

 

 

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6 hours ago, Redbird said:

 

If it's got an FPR it's injected and there's no petcock.

Let me get this straight.....you are claiming Zero doesn't have a pet cock? Seems highly unlikely.

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I can't imagine the FPR would leak then stop leaking so that's unlikely.  If an injector were stuck open and dripping you'd probably notice a missfire on startup from the flooded cylinder.  Could be coming through the vapor recovery system.

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10 hours ago, redxxrdr said:

But even a short run with diluted oil will ruin a engine.

Not in my experience.  Gas isn't a good lubricant but I've seen many engines with gas, water, coolant, diesel diluted oil continue on without issues.  I wouldn't do it on purpose, but I've never seen catastrophic damage from it without running long term that way.

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Oscar wrenches for a living. 

I certainly trust his experience.

Much of my fuel dilution experience has been with older VW engines.

3 quart capacity. 2.5 in the engine,  .5 in the air cleaner.

Doesnt take much fuel to damage those engines.

 

Same with smaller lawnmower engines.

 

Here is a old thread on theTurbo City FpR.

 

They don't appear to make a xx version anymore.  But one poster states that you can get the upgraded fuel rail pressure by installing the 01 up FPR.

It is a easy job.  But use two wrenches.  One on the fuel rail, one on the FPR.

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Not an oil expert, but this is what I think I know: Lawnmower oil, and I think the stuff originally used in VW, are non-detergent.  Because there's no oil filter a non-detergent oil lets junk fall to the bottom of the case and stay there 'safely' away from recirculating.  It's possible that gas might cause this accumulated stuff to go into suspension and be pumped through the engine and do rapid damage.  Some lawn care motors have plastic parts that the gas may cause more damage to than metal parts.  Then of course there's the simple direct action of thinning the oil resulting in lower viscosity and diluted lubrication ability, and most of these oils aren't all that great to start with.

 

My 4 stroke lawn engines get whatever 15-40 diesel oil I have on hand and they get changed more often than most.  My rule on them is to change it when it shows obvious color which always happens before it hits the add mark.  The day I decide it's oil change time I do the chore at hand to get it hot then change it.  A couple tips to simplify lawnmower oil care: I check the level before moving it that way I don't need to wipe the stick and recheck.  The book way to drain the oil is a plug underneath which is a pain in the ass.  My dipstick is in the left rear corner of the engine.  I remove the stick, put a drain pan to the left of the mower and tilt it over on it's side to drain.  The mower needs to be high enough above the pan to allow a far tilt and full drain so I either do it on the edge of the driveway with the pan lower or put a block of wood under the left side of the mower before tilting it.  If you have an oil sucker that's even easier.

 

As far as changing the FPR to a higher pressure one that'll richen the air/fuel mixture so consider whether you want that first.

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I am voting FPR is the culprit. Had gas in my oil with my 01 XX. FPR fixed it. Good luck. I did a Turbo city replacement, but have also heard they no longer support the XX

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  I am embarrassed but not too proud to admit operator error on this one. 

  After re reading all the replies and double checking the bike,  redxxrdr  nailed it. I screwed up the dipstick read (insert joke here).

  If you insert the dipstick and then let it wobble, it will read a little high. The faint gas smell in the oil was me looking for a gas smell---that was not there.

 

  Ran motor and checked vacuum line at fpr . Its dry.

 

 Thanks to all who chimed in, I'll go sit in the corner for 10 mins now.

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