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Chain adjust question


silverbird1100

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For those of you that notice it, how do you guys deal with that freeplay on the right side when the axle is loose? Seems like the only time I can get it aligned and the right slack there's 1/8' movement that I think is the reason my chain comes loose every 200 miles.   

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I have no freeplay.  I set each side to the same position on the "tick marks" and check slack then.  I then tighten and ensure neither side has shifted.  I'm usually golden until I choose to loosen the nut.

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Are you properly torquing down your adj bolts and axle? 

 

Once your axle is tighened down there is very little chance for it to ever move to allow your chain to loosen up in 200 miles. 

 

I do mine per warchild method he showed years ago with two pieces of all thread rod. 

 

Quick and painless

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Aunt Zero and The Krypt Keeper are exactly right, this is the proper procedure by the shop manual, you did not say how many miles your bird has, but if you are getting a "slack " problem every 200 miles there is something else amiss, I would be looking at sprocket ware, wheel bearings,  did someone leave out a spacer / washer  the last time the wheel was off ?

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1 hour ago, The Krypt Keeper said:

I do mine per warchild method he showed years ago with two pieces of all thread rod. 

Refresh my mind.

 

Also, to keep the chain adjustment, the adjuster bolts should be turned in or out (can't remember right now, have it written down) after the axle bolt is torqued.

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Chains stretch in sections.

You can have one area too tight, move the  wheel a revolution and have another area too loose.

I follow the "try to pull the chain rearward" off of the rear sprocket method. 

If you can see a large gap between chain and sprocket anywhere during the full length of the chain, replace it.

If not, I try to find the place on the chain that has mid wear.  Not too tight, not too loose. I adjust at that place.

Edited by redxxrdr
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Warchild adjustment was to use a beveled nuts on a piece of threaded rod. 

 

Will need 2 of the rods with beveled nuts. 

 

Run one through rear axle and other through lower engine frame mount. Tighten up the beveled nuts with your fingers to make sure they are snug. 

 

Can use tape measure or yard stick but measure distance between the two rods close to bike and also at furthest point away. Be sure not to apply pressure on tape or can throw off measurement. Use Adjusters to take slack out of chain and make both measurements equal to properly align rear wheel and chain. 

 

When done remove rods and tighten your axle, then torque to 69ftlbs and back your adjusters out and think the torque is 14ft lbs on them

 

Anyways, seems like a lot, but just takes a few minutes to do. I have been doing it this way for over a decade.  

 

 

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Every time someone says they have to adjust their chain every 1-2 hundred miles it's because they're doing something wrong.  Sometimes it's over tightening and expecting it to remain at near 0 deflection, or not getting the hardware tightened right so the axle slips.  Once in a while it's junk parts or total lack of lubing along with constant hot-rodding.

 

I don't know where your 1/8" of slack is, but wherever it is it shouldn't be there.  Loosen axle nut, turn adjuster on left 'till the chain is almost as tight as it's supposed to be, turn right adjuster to be even with left and verify chain slack.  If you go too far tight loosen the adjusters just a little and bang the back of the tire to push everything foreword against the adjusters again and continue checking/adjusting.  Once it's good tighten the axle nut then turn the adjusters to put some tension on them.  Roll the tire while checking chain slack, if there's tight/loose spots (almost always some amount of imperfection) you wanna make sure the tight spots aren't overly tight.  If the unevenness is extreme there's stuff to check out.  I usually use the little marks to set the alignment, but there are better ways if you care to get it perfect.  I've never had a chain that needed adjusting every 200 miles even with lots of throttle/wheelie/speed abuse.  I don't know that not putting tension on the adjusters would allow the axle to slip and I assume it won't since the manual doesn't state it needs it done.  I've always loaded them after tightening the axle because there's no harm in doing so and they could help prevent movement.

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10 hours ago, silverbird1100 said:

I'll make a video to explain.

 

Does anyone know where Warchild's procedure is?

Believe warchilds process was lost on the old website. I will see if i can take some pics of it this weekend and post up. 

 

I adjust my chain every 3500 to 4000 miles at tire changes. Never really gets much slack in it. Clean it about every 500 or so miles with kero. Got 26k miles out of my last chain and expect same if not more out of current one. Do spray dupont chain dry lube every few hundred miles. 

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