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NoOne65

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at idle the fan will draw more current that stator produces

 

fans aren't made to run all the time,

 

hook up a simple on/off switch to handlebar if you are worried about temps as opposed to leaving it on..

 

take it too a radiator shot to be drilled and fitted with the correct female fitting to work properly..

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Just now, The Krypt Keeper said:

at idle the fan will draw more current that stator produces

 

fans aren't made to run all the time,

 

hook up a simple on/off switch to handlebar if you are worried about temps as opposed to leaving it on..

 

take it too a radiator shot to be drilled and fitted with the correct female fitting to work properly..

 

 

 

Yea I thought about that shortly after I posted...thanks for the good idea!

 

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I assume that's an EFI rad you bought.  I'd first verify that it'll mount up.  I know they mount differently between EFI & carb but don't know if there's anything different to the radiator mounting points.  As far as running it full time it'll put more wear on the motor.  You could get a surface mount switch and wire that in to keep it automatic.

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On 2/10/2017 at 3:23 PM, Furbird said:

They also make those push-through thermostats that you insert through the fins.  I ran one of these for many years on my Astro when I converted it to electric fans with no issues. 

 

I  was thinking something along those lines. I've not heard of a push-through, good to learn about it though.

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It's a temp switch with a long skinny prong you push through the fins then put a clip on the back so the body of it stays pressed to the rad core to sense temp.  There's adjustable and non-adjustable versions.  The adjustable takes up a lot of space so I'd use the non-adjustable for a bike and adjust it by moving it to hotter/colder parts of the rad 'till it's to my liking.  There's also surface mount switches made for generic uses that can be glued or otherwise attached to a surface.  I've seen one that actually slips into a hose connection so that the sensor is in the coolant and a thin wire is clamped down between the hose and fitting.  I assume some kind of sealant would have to be used around the wire but didn't investigate it.  Another option might be to T in a sensor along with the factory sensor for the gauge.  There should be a way to rig something that works off the resistance output of the factory sensor but I don't know electronics well enough to know how to do it.  Carlos probably does.  That would be pretty cool as it could be adjusted to one's liking.

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Lucky for me the radiator did indeed have a spot for the switch...apparently the sales guy is an idiot...so I have the radiator and a new high cfm fan (1700cfm @ 2.8amps). Now I am looking for some advice. Included with the fan were through the radiator type zip ties. I also picked up some slotted metal fan mounting brackets as well. Do you see any negatives to using the zip tie method? or should I use the brackets?

20170216_194607.jpg

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First verify that the fan will fit, it's pretty tight in there.  Brackets if they'll hold it tightly enough so that it can't rattle around and beat up the radiator.  Or zipties and put foam or something between the fan & rad., or both.

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