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4 pin relays


The Krypt Keeper

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I am looking for a normally open 4 pin relay 12v 30amp with a diode. 

 

Looking online for the part needed its roughly $30 from bike bandit and other sites.

 

Its just a simple Hella relay and common on many bikes and autos

 

Would this be something easy enough to get at napa, auto zone or advance? Their websites suck, and would like to have it to work on bike this weekend. 

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If you need it to replace a current one in a certain slot, I could understand the search.  But if you are fabbing something, you could swap it for a more standard 30 amp SPDT 5 pin relay found in nearly every vehicle on the planet.  Wire it how you see fit and tuck it somewhere.

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Goes to the fan on my triumph, ecu sends the signal to turn on so thats the big reason for the diode. It wasnt coming on and after running a test through TuneEcu I have the relay energizing but no fan. After taking the case off I could see why.. was super crusty inside, even cleaning it didnt help as it was so bad. 

 

I did look up some basic 4 pin relays where i can get 10 for $15. 

 

A 100 of the diodes that are used are $4 

 

Make them myself and have plenty of spares. Simple enough to do, just make sure the diode is going the right direction. Solder, snip excess, put case back on. 

 

Do use those 5 pin relays as well on the bike. 

 

 

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I don't understand the need for a diode.  The computer sends power or ground to the relay coil to activate it, nothing from the fan circuit can come back to the computer.

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I thought so also till i looked into it more

 

Since an inductor (the relay coil) cannot change it's current instantly, the flyback diode provides a path for the current when the coil is switched off. Otherwise, a voltage spike will occur causing arcing on switch contacts or possibly destroying switching transistors. 

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Dave, any good Auto parts store should have this general purpose relay. 

It's a 5 pin (1no/1nc) 12v coil rated at 30 amps. Also has mounting tab.

It has resistor coil suppression. 

The coil draws current in the Ma range.

I have successfully used many of these with 24vdc coil.

Never damaged a controller. Just saying.

 

Bocsh # 0 332 019 150

 

just for example --

 

http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_0332209150.asp

 

Edited by CALCXX
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Thanks for the info.. i looked at the 5 pin relays as well thinking they might work as well maybe but didnt know for sure. 

 

Reading more about the differences between the diodes and resistors having pros and cons i didnt want to chance killing my ecu with the wrong one.. 

 

I went to advance, radioshack, napa, auto zone and o'reillys in search.. all looked puzzled and 2 googled it and found them online at the same places i did for $30 each. 

 

http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html

 

If you go there and scroll to the bottom there is a good explanation of the different relay types. I kept reading about making sure to use the correct one over and over on the triumph boards. Never knew of the electrical spikes occuring at the coils when the circuits open back up and cut power to the accessories. 

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As that site states, the only difference between the 4 pin and the 5 pin is the presence of 87a.  You can always just not use that pin.  We've used them for years in car audio, and I still probably have 10 or more of them laying around.  I actually figured out how to integrate a wig-wag module in projector beam vehicles (like nearly all the PD vehicles have now) without having to buy that insanely overpriced $300 box by using a regular wig-wag module and 4 relays.  They certainly come in handy when you know how they work.

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2 hours ago, The Krypt Keeper said:

I went to advance, radioshack, napa, auto zone and o'reillys in search.. all looked puzzled and 2 googled it and found them online at the same places i did for $30 each. 

Do you have a Radio Shack near you?

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Yep, was the 2nd stop i made at the local radio shack. Some 15yr old looki g chick on her phone and when i said i needed a 12v 30amp relay the deer in the headlights look i recieved triggered the smartass area of my brain and told her i would look and let her know when i need some AA batteries :lol:

 

That 5pin info is good to know.. will be handy to have a couple spares. 

 

Might have to get help on wig wag lights at my company wants us to get flashing lights for on site use. No wires showing, no cigarette lighter plug in types either. Integrated in the truck lights with a clean install and dash button install.. 

 

 

Thanks again for the help.. 

 

This place is awesome

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Radio Shack used to be a place to buy electronic parts, now if it's not a cell phone or crappy R/C toy they don't have a clue.  The last 5 times I've been there for something they don't have a clue and say they probably don't have it.  After searching the bins I find the part or the empty spot where it should be.  I go maybe once a year at most and it seems they don't ever restock that stuff, eventually those disorganized bins will be empty.  Last time I went for a couple magnets and had their part numbers, the people still couldn't tell me if they had them but after a search I found them.

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Last time I went in there I was looking for a solder sucker.  Nobody in the store had any idea what that was.  I found it and had to explain to them what it was for.  Shoulda asked for a consulting fee.  I miss the days of being able to go in there with a PC board and say "hey this is burned up, you got something that looks like this" and the old man go "yep, here you go."

Just let me know what kind of vehicle you're wanting to add the wig-wags to and I can walk you through it.  The projector lamps are the toughest because they use one bulb and have an electronic shutter that moves to focus the bulb between low and high.  On a Ford, it doesn't even have a true ground going to the bulb.  I know how to bypass all that without cutting any factory wiring at all.

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Got a solder sucker from online years ago, because radio shack near me didnt have them. 

 

The vehicle is a 2016 F150. Wont be doing the headlights but want strobing lights (white and yellow LED). Looked at some of those roof units, but truck is aluminum so magnets wont work and dont want to fool with suction cup.. just want it integrated and easy on and off. 

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Hide-a-ways?  Not cheap.  Those crappy ones on ebay are just that, crappy.  You're better off going with strobes if you're using the factory light housings, as the hidden LED's are not as bright (unless you go with Code3/Whelen/etc.)  Is this a service truck?  Not sure why you would want to hide them if this thing sits on the side of the road.  Much better off going with a module and installing it in the grille, or adding LED fog lights (if not equipped with them already) and using them as strobes only.  You could also do some low profile lights and mount them right up next to the headliner so you retain driving visibility.  Another option is an arrowstick that is external use and mounting it on the lip of the bed by the cab.  Or a headache rack and a hard mount lightbar at the top.

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