blackhawkxx Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 If one is changing out the brake fluid, NOT bleeding air out, I can't think of any reason to follow the bleeding order prescribed in the manual. Agree? I did the clutch today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srideaux Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 your statement implies that you disagree with the manual. may I ask why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Most bleeding procedures are written to purge the system from the most distant cylinder from the master to the closest. This helps prevent fluid contamination. I always follow the procedure. Someone much more knowledgeable than me wrote it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 I didn't know it mattered. Frankly, IF I know the closest bleed point, I do it in order so that you aren't wasting time pumping out old fluid on farther points out, but I'm not sure how it works on the XX. I do know that I pump several times after it runs "clear." So, I've never had an issue either way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted September 19, 2016 Author Share Posted September 19, 2016 4 hours ago, srideaux said: your statement implies that you disagree with the manual. may I ask why? No, I do not disagree and if I were trying to purge air from the system, I would follow it to the letter. With six bleed nipples on the Bird, I just thought that if it didn't matter, I would just do it the easiest way and not even dig out the manual. Also, I like to work out why I am doing something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Remember, front top bleeds.. Front master. ALL others rear master cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted September 19, 2016 Author Share Posted September 19, 2016 3 minutes ago, redxxrdr said: Remember, front top bleeds.. Front master. ALL others rear master cylinder. I have done it many times (bled) but forget that until I see which one goes down while bleeding. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srideaux Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 I like to take my time replacing brake fluid, do it for a couple of reasons, first DOT 3 Draws moisture which settles in the lowest places in the system (Calipers) and causes Corrosion in Aluminum parts, which is exactly what you donot want. So you need to get rid of all of it I use a lo pressure vacuum device powered by My trusty air compressor,as the fluid drips, I poor in Denatured Alcohol, and suck it threw until it is clear, Then I open a new can of DOT 5 which is a synthetic brake fluid, it will not damage any of the Rubber parts in the brake system, and dose not absorb moisture like DOT 3 and has better Thermal Dynamics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Krypt Keeper Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Bird takes DOT 4 Can use DOT 5 if you want to flush the system Don't use DOT 5.1 forget the actual reason, but remember not to touch it I like to flush my entire system once ever year or so.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Brake fluid threads are like oil threads. EVERYONE has the right answer. The XX specs DOT 4. It's boiling point is about 40 degree F higher than DOT3. DOT 5 will NOT play well with 3 or 4. A full purge and cleaning of the system is required to convert to 5. 3 and 4 absorb water. The water will boil sooner than the fluid causing brake fade / spongey feel. How to fix it? Change your fluid about once a year. DOT 5 doesn't absorb water, but water still finds its way into the system. So now we have little slugs of water in the system. I found out the hard way not to use it on older cars with steel lines. At least not cars that sit for a while. My new steel lines rusted from the inside after a few years with DOT 5. I had moved, started a family, and parked that car. How to prevent? Change your fluid about once a year. 😎 So the best advice is just what started this thread. Change those fluids with the type of your choice. Oh yeah, throw away those open containers of brake fluid, they have absorbed water too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 Some type of suction device makes it pretty quick & easy, if you don't have one you can let gravity do the work for you. Suck the old fluid out of the master or let it drain as low as possible on the first nipple. Refill and drain 'till fresh fluid is coming out, then move on to the next nipple in the line while regularly checking that the master doesn't go empty. Gravity is slower than pumping but easier and less likely to make a mess. If fluid gets on paint don't wipe, immediately rinse with water; having a hose nearby and ready is a good idea. Plastic and some other stuff can be hurt too so rinse those if they get any fluid. Dot 5 isn't hygroscopic, sounds great 'till water gets in and settles to the lowest point. Since the fluid won't absorb it the only way to get it out is to disassemble the calipers or whatever it gets into. With dot 3 & 4 water stays in suspension and flushing removes it. That said, I've never flushed any of my vehicles unless the fluid looks shitty and have never had a problem. Every once in a while it comes to mind and I think "I should do this" then I go on to something else. Too many vehicles, not enough time/fucks to give. Some day I might pick up a gallon and dedicate a day to doing the fleet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 9 hours ago, blackhawkxx said: If one is changing out the brake fluid, NOT bleeding air out, I can't think of any reason to follow the bleeding order prescribed in the manual. Agree? I did the clutch today. I don't know what the manual states. I'd start at the closest nipple and work down the line following my previous post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc46 Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 dot 5.1 is NOT the same as dot 5. It can be used in any system that specs 3 and 4. Motul makes it and is very good and what I use. As a bonus it doesn't eat paint like 3 and 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 2 hours ago, rc46 said: As a bonus it doesn't eat paint like 3 and 4. Getting DOT 3 or 4 on the paint always worries me. I changed the Wing's brakes and clutch today and had three full size towels covering everything around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srideaux Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 I was trying to keep brand names out of it, but there are several good quality synthetic brake fluid Mfgs out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 10 hours ago, blackhawkxx said: Getting DOT 3 or 4 on the paint always worries me. I changed the Wing's brakes and clutch today and had three full size towels covering everything around. Smart thinking. I always know that I'm smart enough and good enough to keep it from happening, but it seems that brake fluid is a paint magnet and the harder one tries to keep them apart the higher the likelihood they'll meet. Target fixation perhaps. When I plan it out and cover everything and have a hose ready, no spills. If I take the cover screws off without covering up it's almost a guarantee that the shit will explosively spray everywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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