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Seems to be the year for issues. Oil cooler pipes.


Dotetcher

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Was out for a bit of a ride yesterday and well into it stopped for fuel. Bit of a blue cloud and the smell of burning oil. Not good. Right side of rear tire has film of oil. Also not good. Checked oil. Was a bit low so added some and took it very easy the rest of the way home, stopping frequently, checking oil level. Removed plastics and went to carwash 1/2 mile from house) to spray engine off to find where the issue was. Pulled back in the driveway to more smoke and and a nice little jet of oil spitting from the right oil cooler pipe. Looks like an easy enough job so I figured I'd do both. Around $115 each. In doing a little research I've been hearing about the mounting bolts having a tendency to shear. Not liking the sound of that. Any recommendations on how to prevent this? Some of the stuff I've been reading has guys soaking bolts with penetrating oil for an extended period and still shearing the bolts. Obviously dont want that to happen. TIA for any suggestions.

 

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you talking about removal of bolts correct? 

 

heat is your friend. You can give it several cycles of heating it up with a little torch and allowing to cool completely

 

Then if you want to bypass all that BS of penetrating oils and go with an old timers method I have tried successfully working on my father in laws '29 model A

 

Acetone and ATF fluid. mix 50/50 and shake like hell, and let it work its way in. Don't get it on any paint or anything. 

 

I keep some in an old metal oiling can, shake like help and squirt.. 

 

http://www.tormach.com/uploads/images/Gallery/products/order_by_partnumber/32398-Oil-Can_MG_8067.jpg 

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2 hours ago, rc46 said:

areokroil is amazing stuff.

Aerokroil, or just Kroil.  The aero is the aerosol version.

 

Is the pipe cracked, leaking at the pipe to hose junction, or leaking right where the pipe connects to the engine?  I think there are adapters that let you attach a braided hose to the engine eliminating the factory pipe/hose set up, might cost less.

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Well, bad news. Pipes to oil cooler for the '97 are obsolete. No longer available from honda. Pipe is not cracked as far as I can tell but definately corroded. Leaking mid-pipe. Pretty sure non-repairable unless you guys have a suggestion? Thanks for all your help by the way. Hey Joe! Got anything laying around? 

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47 minutes ago, John01XX said:

Are they different pipes for later year models?

Check part numbers for different years to verify.

 

 

 

I I thought that the cooler sat behind the nose vents on the car bed models, and open, above the radiator on the FI.

 

Could a old time radiator shop do the repair?

I know that oil pressure is around 45 psi, and a radiator should run 16-18 psi depending on radiator cap.

 

I have seen threads about oil filters failing at the pressures a bikes oil pump puts out.

i would let a radiator shop know of the pressures , if you try.

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I checked and yes, there are adapters that let you fit a hose with threaded AN fittings rather than the pipe/hose originally used.  I got them from Cecome and I'm pretty sure he got them from CBRbear if you wanna ask him where they came from.  I have a pair and don't think I'll need them, one for each end which will allow one aftermarket hose to be fitted from engine to cooler if both ends are the same, I didn't compare to know for sure.  It's an aluminum flange that bolts to the engine in place of the original with a threaded nipple sticking out the other end to connect a hose to, they look to be good quality.

 

If there's enough good pipe left you could cut it and clamp on a high pressure hose.  The pipe would probably need a flare formed to positively retain the hose otherwise it could slip off under pressure.  A hydraulic supply shop that makes hose assemblies might be able to do it for you.

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Thanks again for all the suggestions. Just found a set on ebay for $37. Snapped em up. Now all I have to do is get the old ones off without shearing the bolts. Been heating them and letting them cool as suggested. I'll let you know how I make out/

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Tap the bolt heads with a small hammer, but don't smash them up, impact helps break them loose.  Tapping it while putting pressure on it with a wrench may do the trick.  If you have a small impact gun give it a try.  1/4" or 3/8" drive preferably but a 1/2" gun turned down to avoid breaking the bolts will do.

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So...alternate applications of heat and cooling (3 rounds) and then applying something called NANO penetrating lubricant (couldn't find Kroil locally) and letting it sit for 24 hours. Results are all 8 bolts loosen with no issues. Lines should be delivered by tomorrow. Will be up and running by the weekend. Thanks very much for your help.

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Flush your lines and cooler well if not new.

I would even if new.

 

I have been burned a few times with crap in the lines.

On most of the engines that I play with, the lines are after the filter. No need to put someone else's stuff through your engine.

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1 hour ago, redxxrdr said:

Flush your lines and cooler well if not new.

I would even if new.

 

I have been burned a few times with crap in the lines.

On most of the engines that I play with, the lines are after the filter. No need to put someone else's stuff through your engine.

Good point!  I think he's only doing the lines, but yes flushing them is a very good idea.

 

A guy I used to work with went through two sets of bearings before realizing the cooler was full of junk from the initial engine failure.

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A good degreaser (Castrol SuperClean is my favorite, but Simple Green will do) and hot water.  If you have a small round brush that'll fit it would be a bonus.  Blow out with compressed air if you have it, or non-residue plastics safe electronics cleaner, or just hang to dry.  Carb cleaner and brake cleaner would do a great job on the metal parts but may damage the hoses.

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