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When do you know your clutch is due?


Mikey

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My clutch isn't engaging until the very end of my lever travel. If I move the lever even a smidge...the clutch will slip.

 

I don't recall any type of adjustment for this. Could my clutch plates be wearing thin? it's been a decade + since I've replaced any type of clutch plates on a bike so I've long forgotten what the symptoms are.

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I know the clutch lever has an adjustment.  On both brake and clutch I have them all the way out.  I don't find bringing them in makes them work better.  Indeed, I have to almost touch them to the grip to get 100% where having them out more means I get to 100% without having to pull on them that far.

 

If you have doubts, the most obvious thing to do is flush the system in case you have air or moisture in it.  If it still doesn't work right, you start troubleshooting other possibilities.

 

Most every "failure" I've seen in a hydraulic system is from air/moisture intrusion into the fluid, and they were always corrected by flushing the system with fresh fluid.

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Sounds like the clutch is done.  The only other thing I can think of is if the master piston isn't retracting all the way for some reason but that would probably give you inconsistent operation.

 

 

Handle position has no effect on operation unless it's an aftermarket with a problem that allows it to keep the piston from retracting.  A sticky rod could cause slip, but I think it would be inconsistent.  Both possible problems can be eliminated by taking the slave cylinder off.  Check that you can push the piston in, if so master is fine.  Check that the rod isn't sticking by moving it.

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  • 1 month later...

I'm at approx 120k miles.

 

What do we want to replace with? I'm hearing rumours that OEM is the best to go with?

 

And I likely want to do springs, pressure plates and friction plates all at the same time? I'll polish and lube my rod (stop giggling), and flush the fluid while I'm at it.

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You guys always over-complicate things.  Pull the fiber & steel clutch plates, and measure their thickness.  If thinner than minimum specs, replace.  Or if slippage is

noticeable.

From brand new, the clutch on my 99 Bird would dis-engage with very little travel, and wouldn't re-engage until at the end of the travel.  It's just a trait of most hydraulic clutches, which are also self-adjusting.  Only way to change the "feel" is with a slightly smaller master cylinder (or larger slave cylinder).  Not sure anyone makes one with a piston smaller than 1/2".  Cable conversion would be easier.

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You may very well only need frictions and springs.Steels are pretty durable under normal use (ok the fact you got 200,000 k's is more than proof enough),check them for warping.It's an easy job,the longer you soak the frictions the better.12 hr minimum.My race tech guy at work says the drag bikes he used to build they would soak the plates for 2 days.I can't tell a difference between 12 hrs and 2 days he built some fast shit.

BTW, you get about 199,800 or more km's than I do to a set of plates.I use Kawi friction plates but just to save money,not sure which are lasting longer but it would lean toward the Honda frictions.

 

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Well, If memory serves, this is my second set. I didn't say all 230k was on the original, someone asked how many KM and I thought they meant on the bike. This clutch defenately has about 130+km on it for sure.

 

Ok, so I'm going to ignore the engage point, but instead point out that when it does engage it seems to pulse a little. So I'll do the fluid and polish and lube the rod. Then if the mild "chatter" is still there after I'll break into well soaked OEM friction plates.

 

Thanks everyone for your input. Think this is the best direction to go and it won't cost me a fortune up front.

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On 6/21/2016 at 2:16 PM, Mikey said:

Well, If memory serves, this is my second set. I didn't say all 230k was on the original, someone asked how many KM and I thought they meant on the bike. This clutch defenately has about 130+km on it for sure.

 

Ok, so I'm going to ignore the engage point, but instead point out that when it does engage it seems to pulse a little. So I'll do the fluid and polish and lube the rod. Then if the mild "chatter" is still there after I'll break into well soaked OEM friction plates.

 

Thanks everyone for your input. Think this is the best direction to go and it won't cost me a fortune up front.

 

I have about 230k km on my '97 original clutch. If you're getting pulsing thru the lever it would tend to point to a warped steel plate or 2 - might need to get that validated before a reassembly. If the clutch isn't slipping you could consider Pazzo or other aftermarket levers which could change the feel completely by moving the base adjustment value closer to the bar.

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If you are pulling 6k clutch dumps on the strip and the lane is sticky and cant carry the front end through first gear, and the tach is wavy on power shifts its time.

  If the bike is lurchy and grabby trying to scrubb of the rear tire while working the clutch the steels are toasty and warped. Did your zero to 60ft times mysteriously go away?

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1 hour ago, XXBirdSlapper said:

If you are pulling 6k clutch dumps on the strip and the lane is sticky and cant carry the front end through first gear, and the tach is wavy on power shifts its time.

  If the bike is lurchy and grabby trying to scrubb of the rear tire while working the clutch the steels are toasty and warped. Did your zero to 60ft times mysteriously go away?

Damn, and I thought I drank too much before logging on.

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On June 21, 2016 at 5:16 AM, Mikey said:

Well, If memory serves, this is my second set. I didn't say all 230k was on the original, someone asked how many KM and I thought they meant on the bike. This clutch defenately has about 130+km on it for sure.

 

Ok, so I'm going to ignore the engage point, but instead point out that when it does engage it seems to pulse a little. So I'll do the fluid and polish and lube the rod. Then if the mild "chatter" is still there after I'll break into well soaked OEM friction plates.

 

Thanks everyone for your input. Think this is the best direction to go and it won't cost me a fortune up front.

Sooo, are you done lubing and polishing your rod yet?

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