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What to pay for a mint '01-'03 Bird


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The XX isn't all that rare, but one with 5k is.  Whether it's worth that much is questionable, but if it's perfect it may fetch it.  I wouldn't put a whole lot of extra value in it vs one with 50k because they're known to be reliable machines.  While it may be in better condition than a more ridden one, there's no guarantee.  If it was someone's art piece that lived in the house, sure.  But it may also have been someone's neglected extra toy that got pushed to the back corner of their dilapidated shed with a leaky roof.  Some parts may be in worse condition than a regularly ridden one even if it was well stored.

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Mint condition examples of low mileage XXs are rare. I only know of a handful (all but one in private collections). The excellent reputation for reliability and long term endurance tends to produce high mileage examples when they do surface in the secondary (previously owned) marketplace; and that's still not that often.

 

In fairly generic terms, for a machine to be collectible it must be desirable in and of itself, unique and/or significant within the genre, and to some degree rare/scarce. The XX easily meets this standard; and as time marches on, the inherent scarcity becomes more of a factor. Among many current (US) collectors, the most desirable examples are: '97 (first, and first carb model), '99 (first EFI model), and '03 (last EFI model available in the US), also known as the trifecta. There are a very few later models ('04-'07) in US hands, but those collectors are generally tight-lipped regarding acquisition logistics. 

 

The good news is that the prices of both mint (low mileage) examples and well maintained (higher mileage) riders are still quite reasonable, comparatively speaking. In the end you only need to answer one question - what's it worth to you?

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I can only see paying anywhere near that if was for collection purposes, Mike covered that better than I could above.

 

Frankly, a better bike can be had for less money if it's going to be a rider. If you need/want to continue riding an XX (and there's nothing wrong with that), find a higher mileage unit with less potential collector value.

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Well, the value of that bike resides almost entirely in the low mileage. Put 10 or 20k on it in a year or two and all of the sudden it's just another '01 XX and worth half as much, maybe. Buying that bike to ride is a losing proposition, IMO.

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13 hours ago, silverbird1100 said:

The seller is firm on this price, the additional cost for me to either ship or fly and ride is just too much but here it is if anyone is interested.

 

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/mcy/5519776150.html

Among various mods the decals are missing.  I thought they were under the clearcoat. (?)

 

The unmolested collector appeal is gone, now he has to find someone willing to pay the premium for the odometer reading.  He already did, minus the distance/cost, so I guess it's not impossible.

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The Seattle XX might be the better choice for a rider - the bags are a plus. The owner lowered it 2.5" - find out how, that could matter. If it's just a lowering link, an OEM link could be reinstalled. If the shock mount/linkage plates were rotated, that's even better (can easily be restored to original positions).

 

 

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https://swmi.craigslist.org/mcy/5519832772.html

 

This 2000 TI is a pretty bike.

https://lansing.craigslist.org/mcy/5509625911.html

 

https://grandrapids.craigslist.org/mcy/5513173589.html

 

https://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/mcy/5522645257.html

 

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/mcy/5507183847.html  -  not minty

 

https://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/mcy/5508468811.html

 

https://appleton.craigslist.org/mcy/5474964637.html

 

I kind of ordered them best to worst....    There was one listed for $6K.

....and apologies, some fall outside your model year criteria.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

highjack...

 

https://quadcities.craigslist.org/mcy/5528664827.html

 

https://wausau.craigslist.org/mcy/5500627748.html

 

Edited by Uncle Morty
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5 hours ago, ironmike said:

The owner lowered it 2.5" - find out how, that could matter. If it's just a lowering link, an OEM link could be reinstalled.

You can't go more than 1" in the front by sliding fork tubes so it must be done internal.

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The Appleton CL bike looks to have some kind of cap or something on the top of the forks; anyone know what they are?  I emailed the owner and got a quick reply, but it was useless.

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17 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

You can't go more than 1" in the front by sliding fork tubes so it must be done internal.

 

What keeps you from lowering more than one inch?

 

The bike looks to have about an inch of fork tube above the bars.  The rear looks lower as well, but its hard to tell with it sitting in the grass.  Maybe an inch in front and 1.5 in the back?

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57 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

The Appleton CL bike looks to have some kind of cap or something on the top of the forks; anyone know what they are?  I emailed the owner and got a quick reply, but it was useless.

 

Looks like Genmar risers, which are purely cosmetic.  Nothing exotic.

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1 hour ago, blackhawkxx said:

The fender will hit the triple.

I've lowered mine 1.5" through the trees. That's max and will still allow 1/4" of clearance before hitting the fender. Then lowered it 3" out back and strapped the front tight. It felt like I was riding a moped but launched great at the track

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