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Noise After Valve Adjustment


RC Randy

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Got my 01XX back together yesterday after shimming a tight exhaust valve. Now I have a noise that I can't figure out. When I got home today I pulled the valve cover and checked what I thought could be causing it and found nothing. It is a metallic noise, more that just a tick. I did run it yesterday and took if for a ride around the block. Runs as it should and noise seems to go away after 3k rpm's but almost sounds like a diesel at idle to about 3k.

 

 Thought maybe it dropped the valve I shimmed, so I went through all the valves and they all are the same and the one I shimmed is checking in recommended range. Thought maybe I didn't use enough assembly lube (moly, so I went with a thin film), but after pulling a cam cap all looks good. I'm positive it is timed correctly-I used an engraver to mark the intake sprocket and chain and used the visible mark on the exhaust sprocket, and also put marks on the inside of the sprocket and chain. I also installed a new CCT. It runs as it should.

 

The only other things I can think of is that I found I had the two coil wires switched on the left coil, but it ran fine with them switched and made no difference when they were corrected. I did the pair block off and have a good seal on the replacement caps. Also yesterday when I turned the key on, fuel pump ran, but when I hit the starter button everything went dead. After trying to jump it off of a booster and just getting a clicking starter noise, I installed a new battery I had for my Busa and problem solved, it is cranking as it should and started fine.

 

Thoughts?

 

Edited by RC Randy
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4 hours ago, poida said:

the sounds like a diesel had me thinking cct as well.

One of the things I thought of after start up, so I switched it out with a new one. Made no difference.

 

I brought up the battery issue, because I had read that sometimes starter clutches hang up. I will probably end up putting it back together and try to zone in on exactly where the noise is coming from. I feel a little better about it since everything appears normal on the inside and if it is still there I will post a video.

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Did you retract the CCT lifter when you did the valves and are you sure it extended properly when released? Being that removing the cams usually involves messing with the CCT and it's a known problem on these bikes, I'm voting for that as well.

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Check your valve timing again, that's the main thing you disturbed, doe's not have to be off much for the valve to just kiss the piston, then at 3000 the lead an lag of the valves make it go away. Just a thought.

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7 hours ago, 02 SilverBird said:

Check your valve timing again, that's the main thing you disturbed, doe's not have to be off much for the valve to just kiss the piston, then at 3000 the lead an lag of the valves make it go away. Just a thought.

 

If a piston is hitting a valve at idle, it will certainly do it with more RPM.  Don't ask how I know this.

I think something is wrong with the CCT or cam chain sliders.

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With a suggestion from a member on the com., I may have found the issue.

 

When I installed the pair block offs I didn't remove the reeds and the little phillips screws were causing the plates not to seal at the back even though I used RTV. Once removed you could see they had not made contact to make a seal.

 

I did the block offs on my 99XX with a kit a fellow member (Redd) sold, but that was 10 years ago, and I must have forgot and I obviously wasn't paying attention.

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16 hours ago, 02 SilverBird said:

Check your valve timing again, that's the main thing you disturbed, doe's not have to be off much for the valve to just kiss the piston, then at 3000 the lead an lag of the valves make it go away. Just a thought.

If the chain, guides, and tensioner are doing their jobs this won't happen.  Even if the chain were loose it would be highly unlikely for them to hit and miss at different RPMs.  Also highly unlikely is that they'd hit without bending and causing a compression loss.

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