IcePrick Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Working on my GasGas FSR 450 SM (okay, deciphered - that means a fuel-injected 450 four stroke single supermoto) in preparation for RacerXX Ocho. The bike has been sitting without fluids for 2-3 years, most of it in Florida under shelter at Rockertom's place. I filled it with the appropriate liquids earlier this spring, and it has been a bit of a journey - not unexpectedly - and now I'm finding that the clutch is not working. It feels as if the clutch is working, in that the lever feel is what I would expect - not like it has air in the system. It will not budge in gear, engine off, with the clutch pulled in. Engine running in neutral, shifting into first will kill it instantly. I was able to start it in neutral, run along side it, and shift it into first to get it going - rode perfectly, except for the fact that the clutch lever does *nothing*. Wheelies are awesome (EFI is incredible!), but all kinds of on-off-on the gas with the clutch lever in making it stress the clutch and it won't break free. Euro trials and enduro bikes are well known for dragging clutch issues. My guess is that the period in storage allowed the clutch plates to corrode together. Any thoughts on getting it loose, other than breaking into the case and disassembling the clutch? I don't have a lot of time before I have to load it on the pickup to head to Jennings... gotta get this solved ASAP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Unless it's a lot more complicated to access than most clutches I've seen (which is certainly possible, it is a Gas-Gas) I'd already have the cover off. Not what you asked for but probably where you're going to end up, anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 Nah, I was hoping I wouldn't have to open it up mostly because I'm unsure of the sealing surface - an o-ring would be great, but if it's a toasted gasket I'm screwed. Taking the plates out and cleaning them is probably the "right" thing to do, but it is an $1100 bike and this is RacerXX, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Form a gasket should do for a clutch cover, no oil pressure present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 Yeah - guess I'll have to go that route. I was hoping for a different "fix", opening her up tomorrow is on my list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Someone else might show up with an easier fix in the meantime. Stan could probably swing by and fix it with a menacing glance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 I miss Stan.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 I've never had one that stubborn. Is the oil fill right over the clutch pack like most bikes? If so get in there with a thin screwdriver and pry the plates apart with the clutch handle squeezed; zip-tie or whatever if you need both hands to work the plates. Once oil gets between them it'll probably be back to normal. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 No such luck - oil fill is in the frame by the triple, Honda XR-style. I'll rip it apart today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 Took the clutch cover off, nice thick rubber gasket. The service manual showed a special tool to thread into the pressure plate to keep it aligned while removing - I was a little concerned as I don't have the special tool. However, once I got it open, my clutch looked nothing like the clutch in the service manual, and required no special tools for disassembly. As I guessed, there was a good amount of rust between the friction plates and disks. I used some emory cloth to clean up the disks, and I sprayed the friction plates with brake cleaner and wire brushed them before spraying them clean. Reassembled, and the clutch worked with the bike off. Started it up... hey, it runs when I pull in the clutch and snick it into gear! The reason I didn't just do that last night was because it had already been a long day, and I wanted to review the service manual first. As it turned out, it wasn't even remotely complicated. Probably an hour from start to finish. One bolt needed for the right side hand guard, and it's going on the hitch hauler for the trip to RacerXX! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John01XX Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 hooray! Great Job Sir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 Hopefully, that's the last roadblock in prepping this thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 When you said early on that you suspected corrosion I thought to say 'no way'. Then realized there's a bit more humidity in your parts. That'll teach ya to leave your motor empty of oil and ignored for years. Glad it's all straightened out. Racing it should burn off any left-over humidity. Every time I read about another person hitting RacerXX I get a tad jealous. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 11 minutes ago, superhawk996 said: That'll teach ya to leave your motor empty of oil and ignored for years. Yea, why would you take the oil out of it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 Draining all fluids is a fairly standard long-term storage practice. Leaving the oil in would not have prevented the rust, it just would have been on areas not immersed in oil. I personally believe the best practice is to install fresh oil before storage, and ensure that it gets cranked regularly and enough to circulate the lubricant. But, right or wrong... not my fault. Disney drained it before they auctioned it, no telling how long it sat there before Tom bought it at auction. I think he had it a year or two (also in Florida), before I took it off his hands. I got it flushed, filled, and cranked over a bunch within a week of getting it to Tennessee. Added Seafoam to it as well. We'll see how it goes - I'm envisioning rusty bearings and races throughout. But I also think the clutch material may have absorbed moisture and held it, causing the rust on the plates... maybe the internals are okay. After some parking lot hooliganism, the oil looked fine but I think I'll take a spare filter in case I want to do a mid-day change at the track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SR71BLACKBIRDXX Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Crazy how rust damn near welds things together. I can't imagine killing the motor by just putting it into gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 On March 15, 2016 at 6:42 PM, iFanboi said: I've had them stick enough to stall just from not being used for several months. Usually they'll unstick after the first stall, but I've had a few more stubborn that had no rust. Actually, I've never seen them rusty. I think leaving it empty of oil made it worse. Even tho the clutch wouldn't be submerged in oil, there would be less air space. Plus if any moisture condensed inside it would drop to the bottom of the case and be under the oil where it can't evaporate and wet everything again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted March 19, 2016 Author Share Posted March 19, 2016 I think you nailed it on condensation. I could see the line on the discs where the water was, low in the crankcase. Anyways, done deal now - a whole day getting blasted around the track by numerous people... the shock is leaking (probably never been serviced and there is visible pitting on the piston shaft), it needs a 38t rear sprocket to get the gearing closer, and it developed some cam chain noise by the end of the day. But it performed well all day, and may have won a couple more converts to the dark side of SM (SuperMoto, that is). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 Wow, I'da never guessed it would accumulate that much water, good to know. Very cool that you passed it around like a cheap whore. Another reason I wish I'd gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.