sandman Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 (edited) Success. As it turns out, it was the test plug connector issue after all. Even though I've been through the fix with my previous 2000 XX, which gave me plenty of warning with the FI dash light flickering, I had zero warning here. Just go/no go situation with the turn of the key on a ride. Here's the take away lesson for anyone else dealing with the same problem and reading this thread. I've certainly learned a lot about my bike's electrical system. 1.) 2001 models are quite vulnerable and known to have test plug issues, as well as earlier XX's. Unwrap it and solder it together first! 2.) Don't assume as I did that your factory test plug connection is OK even if the bike is low mileage and hardly ever been wet, and if the wires and plugs look corrosion free. These bikes are now 15 years old + or -, and that connection is likely to bite you until dealt with. Thank you kindly all for your help, advice, and suggestions. I've only communicated directly with a few members here, but your generous help has been greatly appreciated- this is a truly great community. I hope this thread helps other members, and I am glad to remain a long time and committed XX owner. Edited April 6, 2016 by sandman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 I know you don't want to hear this, but I have to mention it. On the Furbird race bike, I actually salvaged that from becoming a parts bike. It had spent most of it's life outside, and was a stunter before I got it and repaired or replaced damn near everything on it. One of the worst problems it had was the wiring. There is the notorious negative block in front of the rear tire, but this one (99) also has a positive block next to the valve cover on the inside of the left frame rail. Both the positive and negative blocks were so compromised that I had to replace entire runs of wiring due to the corrosion. If you cut back on the harness and see more and more corrosion, you may have a compromised connector further up the line. I had a 4 foot run on mine that was corroded all the way through and didn't stop until it hit another connector. And I don't know if your year has the positive block or not (from what I understand, if it has one, it has both, as that is how they hook in to test everything from the factory during assembly) but you may want to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franky11 Posted February 4, 2023 Share Posted February 4, 2023 On 7/19/2015 at 6:14 PM, TuffguyF4i said: The trick there is to 'tin' each wire first. This just means getting each wire wet with solder first. I have a 2000 as nd can't seem to get a spark all four wires going to coils h as be power but still no spark what am I missing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted February 4, 2023 Share Posted February 4, 2023 4 hours ago, franky11 said: I have a 2000 as nd can't seem to get a spark all four wires going to coils h as be power but still no spark what am I missing Are you saying that you did the wire loom fix and then can't get spark? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted February 4, 2023 Share Posted February 4, 2023 Tough to decipher IMO. But, IIRC, the coils fire off of ground, not power, so if the loom fix hasn't been done it could be that or an ECM issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted February 4, 2023 Share Posted February 4, 2023 1 hour ago, Furbird said: Tough to decipher IMO. But, IIRC, the coils fire off of ground, not power, so if the loom fix hasn't been done it could be that or an ECM issue. ...or wiring, or the trigger. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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