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won't start- fuel pump good but won't prime- thoughts?


sandman

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Here's my situation: my 2001 XX with 10K miles has left me stranded. 40 minute ride, functioned completely normally- no warnings or clues. Shut it off, went to restart 15 minutes later- engine cranks and cranks strongly, but would not start. Fuel pump won't work, you can't hear it whine and prime! Trailered bike home and started diagnosis: fuses all good. Hot wired the fuel pump- it definitely works. What could be stopping the fuel pump from getting power? I checked bank angle sensor with a meter, it seems good, the bike has never been down. Swapped the four relays between themselves, still no go.

I'm leaning towards replacing what I suspect now- the handlebar stop switch assembly. This bike is now 15 years old, and that could allow cranking but no power to the fuel pump, right? Your thoughts, opinions, and advice greatly appreciated!

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The stop switch also interrupts the starter. I think the pump power comes through the ECU but not positive. Has it had any wiring work, ever had an alarm or tuner installed? You'd probably find signs like altered wiring if it has. You might try turning the key on and wiggling wires around to see if you can find a bad connection.


Fuses sometimes crack and aren't obviously burnt, check them with a meter to be sure.

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Great reply- thanks. I think you're right about the stop switch. suppose it can be ruled out? No alarm and no tuner installed. The only thing that was changed with the wiring was the addition of an Admore led light kit for my Givi top case. It taps in to the rear turn signals and brake light wires, and has never been an issue- I don't believe that wiring would affect the ecu or fuel pump, would it? I'm really stumped and guessing at this point.

Edited by sandman
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Bingo, it's those damn LEDs!

Just fukin with ya.

Check the fuses with a meter or test light, do a wiggle test on the harnesses & connectors with the key on. It might be a faulty ecu, but I don't think they're a common failure item. If you rule out everything that you can put your hands on you can send me your ECU and I'll try it on my bike to confirm if it's ok or not.

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Hot wired the fuel pump- it definitely works. What could be stopping the fuel pump from getting power? I checked bank angle sensor with a meter, it seems good, the bike has never been down. Swapped the four relays between themselves, still no go.

I'm leaning towards replacing what I suspect now- the handlebar stop switch assembly. This bike is now 15 years old, and that could allow cranking but no power to the fuel pump, right? Your thoughts, opinions, and advice greatly appreciated!

You swapped the relays and no change occurred. Check power to the relay and trace it back.

The switchgear may very well be your problem, but the only thing that points to it at this time is other folk's experience. That has merit, but ideally, you'd trace the circuit back a ways before throwing parts at it.

Have you jumpered the fuel pump and been able to start the bike?

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I'm leaning towards replacing what I suspect now- the handlebar stop switch assembly. This bike is now 15 years old, and that could allow cranking but no power to the fuel pump, right? Your thoughts, opinions, and advice greatly appreciated!

I'd suspect the switch first. People forget it's not a weatherproof component, and after a while, gunk gets in there. It needs to be opened up and cleaned every now and then.

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Page 5-58 of the Service Manual recommends if the fuel pump does not operate, inspect as follows:

Support the rear end of the fuel tank,

Disconnect the fuel pump 2P brown connector from the fuel pump.

Turn the ignition switch to "ON" and measure the voltage between the terminals.

Connection: Brown (+) and Green (-)

There should be battery voltage for a few seconds.

If there is battery voltage, replace the fuel pump.

If there is no battery voltage, inspect the following:

- Main fuel 30amp fuse

- Sub fuses 10amp and 20amp

- Engine stop switch

- Fuel cut-off relay

- Engine stop relay

- Bank angle sensor

- ECM

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  • 4 weeks later...

Bought a nos oem right switch assembly and plugged it in. I can now report that this issue is not related or caused by the right switch gear- anyone want to buy a new one? I'll give you a deal.

My next direction will be to look into the wiring harness plugs and connections (test plug)- I've seen pics of melted plug connectors and am starting to think this might be the problem. Seems 2001 models are not immune to this area.

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If you can't get your hands on a test harness to check the ECM, you might check to make sure the ECM connectors are clean and not corroded. If they look okay, don't forget Superhawk offered to check your ECM out for you. Good luck.

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