ChasRummel Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 (edited) Looks like a audiovox cruise to me. No fair posting a nice clean bike after my dirty bike post. Forks look to be stock height. But if you had seen my SV when I bought it, then you would understand my concern. I would also suspect the tire. I felt bad riding it in the rain. One week b4 this photo it had NEVER been in rain. I believe that because there is almost no way the guy could have cleaned some of the places that were spotless The bike IS too tall for me I'm 5'10 and I'm too tippie toed to back her up on anything but level ground. To be frank I've been riding since I was a kid and it scares me to the point of an Adrenalin rush when I need to put a foot down in a parking lot turn and the ground isn't level. it def has a head bearing problem and I was hoping it was from that. I hope it not the tire that stuff adds up. the tread seems ok what happened to it and how does that happen? Last time I had a bike in a shop they doubled the estimate and left it with no oil AND cut the line for the clutch so fluid was all over. It had to go straight to another place. All that for a stator repair.. OOO I have a headache Edited August 25, 2015 by ChasRummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 This is the same reason that we only put 10mm of shim in the rear. What I recall reading is 5-6 mm, 10 might be too much. The bike is already too tall for the Chas so he's unlikely to want to raise it but thought I'd chime in just in case the 10mm was a mistake; hate to have someone do it and end up with a dangerously unstable bike. If 10mm is tested and good then ok, just never heard of going that high. Lowering the front will speed up the steering similarly to raising the rear and gain a little better ground reach, just be careful of speed bumps grinding/crushing the headers as it happens even on stock height bikes. As for the chain dragging on the stand, make sure the rubber stopper is present on the exhaust. It sometimes vanishes with age and then the stand rests higher and closer to the chain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 That front tire does not look worn out but it could be screwed up but I would look at other places also. Head bearing first, is the front wheel straight, etc. Take one section at a time to make sure it checks out and then move to the next. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasRummel Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 That front tire does not look worn out but it could be screwed up but I would look at other places also. Head bearing first, is the front wheel straight, etc. Take one section at a time to make sure it checks out and then move to the next. I think I see what is wrong with the tire now. It has tread but odd wear on sides. Anyone on how this happens? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasRummel Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 (edited) THANK YOU EVERYONE who has pitched in to help. Here's the status I preformed most the checks that were suggested here. OK so we started with a clunk over bumps ( a bad one) We found that YES i does click when backing up and hitting the breaks So I think we narrowed it down to the bearing being loose or shot and the tire being "cupped" and I may need a new chain. It's a big job, so I would like to try to tighten it first. It looks like I need a special tool. Has anyone tightened or adjusted this, did it work, How is it done just get the tool and turn clockwise? I have never ran into this problem so I have no idea how it happens. I hope this plus the tire wear do not indicate that the bike has been in a major accident. Attached are a few photos to help you help me ; the last one is me.(again THANK YOU) I spent more than I really could afford to get the bike and was promised it needed nothing. I told the guy my car is out of commission for a few months in the body shop and I needed to be sure I could just ride it without bullcrap Such is the way of some people and $$$. It's hooray for me the heck with you. as my Grandfather used to say. Edited August 25, 2015 by ChasRummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 (edited) If that picture is correct, your chain is beyond shot. New sprockets and chain may be called for so you know it's been done. I'd need to see clear up-close pics of the sprockets without the chain to advise if you could get away with just a new chain. The tires look good enough to last a while longer. Ignore comments about your tires being "cupped"...it's a running gag around here. Edited August 25, 2015 by Aunt Sylvia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasRummel Posted August 25, 2015 Author Share Posted August 25, 2015 Is there a nut loose between the tank pad and rear seat? Welcome to the forum! Yes a 48 year old one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but on my XX, the locking nut (right side) is 1 1/16" You'll have to buy a tool for it. Use an adjustable wrench to keep the axle from spinning (left side), but I'd use a reliable tool for the left side because you want to apply a liberal amount of force to tighten and you'll need a liberal amount of force to loosen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasRummel Posted August 26, 2015 Author Share Posted August 26, 2015 I'm kinda lost now on Delusions is saying are you helping me tighten the head bearing or speaking about the chain? Tomorrow I am TAKING THE BIKE TO THE LOCAL HONDA DEALER FOR A NEW CHAIN $129 PLUS $65 TO INSTALL. ( sorry caps lock) I have to look down to type. I hope the sprockets are good or at least cheap to have done while there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 That is a really good deal for a good chain. Make sure that it is a rivet type, not a clip type. I spend the money for o ring or x ring. With that mileage, I would change the countershaft ( front) sprocket too. OEM has a rubber damper built into it. Aftermarket usually don't. My last was a solid steel, and it still runs quiet. Rear sprockets are bigger, take less load, and can be used again if money is tight. Inspect it well. No use wearing out a new chain on old sprockets. I agree with Mike, that chain looks worn. They should not lift off the sprocket like that. I bet you will be surprised that a smooth bike gets even smoother after a new chain and sprockets. A lot of the service on the XX is easy. Get a torque wrench, and sockets for the rear axle. Most chains stretch the first 500 miles or so, then stabilize. Use the torque specs in the manual Joe sent you. I think the rear axle is 69 foot lbs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasRummel Posted August 26, 2015 Author Share Posted August 26, 2015 As far as your cruise control............what cruise control? If you have a throttle lock or cruise control, its an aftermarket accessory, and we would have to know what brand/model to give any helpful advice. Fapfapfap..........how loose IS the chain? The XX has a big strong gearbox with big strong gears. Sometimes the lower gears don't line up quite right. Try moving the bike forward and backward a bit. If your oil is dirty, you might be surprised at how an oil change will make the trans shift nicer. Check your PM's, I sent you a link to the repair manual. I have found that double cluching works well to get her in first or net when she is being stubborn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 I'm kinda lost now on Delusions is saying are you helping me tighten the head bearing or speaking about the chain? Tomorrow I am TAKING THE BIKE TO THE LOCAL HONDA DEALER FOR A NEW CHAIN $129 PLUS $65 TO INSTALL. ( sorry caps lock) I have to look down to type. I hope the sprockets are good or at least cheap to have done while there. The chain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasRummel Posted August 26, 2015 Author Share Posted August 26, 2015 Congrats and welcome. These bikes have a clutch brake of sorts, don't recall it's actual name. If you hold the clutch handle fully in the clutch may stop spinning so depending on the positions of the gears it may not go in. Honda added this to get rid of the clunk usually observed when going into gear. If you let off just a bit on the clutch while holding the shifter it should drop in. This is all assuming that it's not grinding or some other weird thing but just won't go into gear. Check the chain tension as you rotate the tire looking for tight/loose parts and make sure it's lubed. The noise could be the chain or the cush drive rubbers, maybe something else. Throttle locks have an adjustment, at least the ones I've seen, so it may just need a tweak. Tho private sales are "as is" in most states, if the seller made statements about it being all good they are generally taken as an expressed guarantee so if you want to return it or get the repairs paid for you may have legal leverage. Too late for this go-round, but always get a test ride. If the seller requires to hold the cash and/or draw up an agreement that's acceptable, if he absolutely refuses a ride then he's likely hiding something. When I bought the Duc the seller insisted on cash in hand to ride, everyone else has just handed me keys. I went on a pre-purchase inspection for a friend where the seller wouldn't allow a ride and the buyer wanted the bike anyway, my inspection revealed a lot of issues so the deal didn't happen. Where do you live? I Live in Bucks County just north of Phila. PA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasRummel Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 Is there a nut loose between the tank pad and rear seat? Welcome to the forum! YES A 48 YEAR OLD ONE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasRummel Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 If anyone that has successfully replaced a headrace bearing (or whatever it is called) lives near Bucks County PA or Philly and wants to hang out and make a fair side job buck.. I would like to know. I have done tons of work on cars I just never have done this before, the bike is scratchless black and I don't have large tools in metric or bike stands/jacks. Most my big stuff is standard for my GTO and other muscle cars that I have repaired or hot rodded in the past years. Also, due to a debated car accident the insurance company keeps stalling payment on, my car is not drive-able so I need the bike back on the road quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearXX Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 Is there a nut loose between the tank pad and rear seat? Welcome to the forum! Yes a 48 year old one. Welcome to the nut house you'll fit right in 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 FWIW, a reliable set of metric tools can be had at Wal-Mart nowadays. Good enough for what you'll need to do. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasRummel Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 (edited) is that a Yamaha 535 virago beside your bird? It's a VS 1400 Intruder. I'm trying to sell it to pay for the stuff my XXneeds. It needs a tire and studs pressed in the cylinder. The original ones vibrated out.. The V-twin tends to loosen bolts due to the shaking. I tried putting bolts in it, but they only hold for one ride. Edited August 27, 2015 by ChasRummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasRummel Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 FWIW, a reliable set of metric tools can be had at Wal-Mart nowadays. Good enough for what you'll need to do. What type of jacks or stands do you guys like for the bird? I'm sure I'll add all that stuff. $ is a bit tight now. I guess what I'm saying is since I need to keep the bike on the road Id rather have the chain installed w/ the few bucks I can max my card out than buy tools. I'll add them soon. I figure if I can get six points drop forged brand is not too important except for things like ratchets ( have those in Craftsman in all sizes) I have a good collection of S-K, MAC and Craftsman tools but for the large size metric stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 Honestly, I've only needed one jack stand and a floor jack. I still have the center stand on my XX. I can jack up the front by gently lifting with a floor jack under the oil pan. Once the front wheel is off, I put the axle back in and a jack stand underneath. Gently lower the front back onto the jack stand. The center stand will support the back automatically. The only "hard" part of chain replacement is cutting off the old chain and riveting the new one on. If you don't have a dremmel and/or chain tool, by the time you buy them it might be easier to pay someone to do it. You don't want to "free hand" a chain install. Screw it up and you need to get a new master link. Use a proper chain riveting tool. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 is that a Yamaha 535 virago beside your bird? It's a VS 1400 Intruder. I'm trying to sell it to pay for the stuff my XXneeds. It needs a tire and studs pressed in the cylinder. The original ones vibrated out.. The V-twin tends to loosen bolts due to the shaking. I tried putting bolts in it, but they only hold for one ride. Have you tried high temp loctite? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 You don't need stands. Do as Auntie says. The centerstand raises the rear well, and with a simple floor jack or a right sized piece of 2x4 and a friend, the front comes up nicely. When I'm doing maintenance, I usually put the centerstand on a piece of 2x4 and take advantage of the extra inch and a half of clearance. The chain comes off with a hacksaw, a punch and a hammer. Or a phillips, a slotted, and a hammer. Hacksaws are cheap. Screwdrivers are free at harbor freight. ANYTHING is a hammer. Did the bike come with a tool kit? If it did, it has all the tools needed to take the wheels off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 (edited) The bike IS too tall for me I'm 5'10 and I'm too tippie toed to back her up on anything but level ground. To be frank I've been riding since I was a kid and it scares me to the point of an Adrenalin rush when I need to put a foot down in a parking lot turn and the ground isn't level. I kind of have the opposite problem. I have lowering pegs on mine. A couple of the guys were discussing ride height adjustment at WIXX. Hobicus and Pollysylabicgibbs have a good handle on what can be done. I was listening while they were discussing "dog-bones" in the rear suspension. Edited August 28, 2015 by XXitanium Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 The bike IS too tall for me I'm 5'10 and I'm too tippie toed to back her up on anything but level ground. I'm 5' 10" and have no problems. Short legs long torso? To be fair, as the rear shock ages, the bike sags more. It was a little like that when I switched out the rear shock with a "newer" one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 Once you get every thing squared away, it is pretty cheap to lower the bike if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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