rockmeupto125 Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 I'm trying to get some work done in the garage, and I'm just so frustrated. I can't do much more with my left arm than hold things, and pushing and pulling on tool cabs and other wheeled items that should be so easy to move is increasingly frustrating. The concrete floor in the garage is rapidly aging and its hard to work out there. Heck, the whole garage is in fair condition at best. The doors are damaged and the structure took a real beating in the flood two years ago. But its what I got, so in August I put a new tin roof on it...it leaked like a sieve. Now that I've got that money invested in it, I really should do something about the floor to make it usable, so here's the situation. The floor is concrete. One side of the garage has a lot of erosion, and the other side has cracks every few feet. The floor is raised and uneven, and this is largely a result of the flooding. One option would be to pour a new concrete floor over the old one. I believe the old floor will continue to shift, and eventually crack the new pour. So my guess is that I'd need to pour at least 4 inches of reinforced concrete if I wanted it to last more than 2 or 3 years. 20x24 makes that about 6 yards....so about $500 plus $100 in miscellaneous cost....scut wood for forms and renting a power trowel, for instance. Then I'd have to build some ramps as 4 inches raise in the floor is too much to hop over on a regular basis. Another option.....lay some pressure treated 2x4 down 24 on center and put some manufactured subflooring over it. I've used AdvanTech in the house and like it..its strong and has tongue and groove edges. Its water resistant as well...I would even consider laying it directly on the concrete. There's never damp floor in the garage unless it leaks from the roof (or floods). If I lay 2x4 it would raise the floor 2 1/4, and with the OSB right on the floor, it would be only 3/4 inch raise...enough so a ramp wouldn't be necessary, or with the 2 1/4 raise, much smaller than the concrete option. Advantech is pricey, so its near $650-$700 once all the receipts are totaled. I figure I need this to last for 10 years, and I think either option would do that. But this is posted here requesting other's expertise and opinions, so please.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 Those other methods are going to cost some also. Mine is just starting to degrade too. For my own purposes, I have been thinking about breaking out the old concrete and pouring new. What is your time frame? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 I'd like to get this done by the end of October. An additional option is the DRIcore flooring...2' squares with plastic backing and standoffs that allow an airspace underneath. A little more money with the plus of not having to fool with a separate moisture barrier, and I believe they are tongue and groove on all four sides, which would at least lend some greater stability to the 2x2 size. I thought the AdvanTech 4x8 would average out the hills and valleys of the existing floor, whereby the 2x2 squares would assume more of the existing topography. That's $1.50 a square foot, so that's $750. Regardless of what I do, its going to be between $600 and $900 by any estimate. I don't expect this to be flat and level...just smooth enough to work with. The DRIcore is rated 4000 pounds per square foot, so loading isn't a concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 ...maybe try googling fiber reinforced 2 inch pour-over with release breaker. I was looking up epoxy additives. I saw you place control joints a little closer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowrideCX Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 I think you will be much happier with concrete. Wether you do 2" fiber reinforced or just a self leveler. I would say it will hold up much better than the other stuff but then again I don't have any experience with the new stuff. As for a ramp that is an easy fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 Hey I finally got a chance to search that as you said. "fiber reinforced 2 inch pour-over with release breaker" The only hits were our forum, lol! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Let me see.... http://indecorativeconcrete.com/?page_id=1268 Make no mistake…there are certain situations when it’s best to tear out existing concrete and start anew by pouring on a compacted stone or sand base. For instance, if you have large working cracks in your slab and the concrete has settled to the point that it’s at several different levels, you should remove it. Likewise, if tree roots are causing your existing concrete to heave, then it’s best to tear out the concrete, resolve the root problems, and start fresh. Perhaps door thresholds or stair riser heights are an issue and you simply can’t pour any higher without creating problems. Any of these are good reasons to remove the existing concrete and start from scratch.However, if your concrete is relatively sound and raising its elevation a few inches would not create problems, then you can pour new concrete directly over the old. Well, maybe not directly over the old. You’ll want to install a bond breaker so the two slabs do not bond to each other. As usual, there are caveats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 I don't know. It seems there are more opinions: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20130330121607AATWkr7 I looked at a few threads. It seems the general consensus was that concrete has a difficult tome sticking to concrete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Did you ever go anywhere with this? I notice I'm late but, I'll add, if there is no issues with raising the elevation... then I would suggest a rubblization and top pour. Bonded. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubblization We tested this process a few years ago, on a section of roadway that was originally built on the native soil that honestly is 100% expansive Clay, think pottery clay. The results have been unbelievable.... I never would have thought it would have worked this good. Using this method I would speculate you could pour a top pad at half the depth... say 2" and have a floor that even better than a single slab 4" Rent a Air compressor and Jackhammer.. break it all up into fairly even sizes, and pour over it. Done. And if door Height, etc, is really an issue don't forget, raising a detached garage up just a few inches is easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted December 16, 2013 Author Share Posted December 16, 2013 I put the advantech down and fired a few tiedowns in where it wad sticking up. So far its been great to be able to move stuff around easily. We'll see if it was a good decision in 4-5 years. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowrideCX Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 I must come visit so I can see your new flooring.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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