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Off Topic F-150 question


N1K

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Fuck...

I did my own brakes a year and a half ago (maybe it was 2) and I used cheap pads..

Fucking things wore thru... I heard the warning plates screeching for a few days, but figured I had another month before I would need to get them replaced...

Last night I heard grinding... Looked in the slots on the rim to see my right front rotor TOTALLY gouged... metal on metal scraped...

I've replaced pads myself, and that's easy... Does anyone know how hard it is to replace rotors also?

2000 Ford F-150?

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They are gouged deep...

New rotors are only 50 bucks... I think I'll just put new rotors on, I'm just wondering how hard it will be. I belong to an auto club where I have access to all the air tools I need, lift, etc...

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My '95 Chevy 4x4 had the rotors pressed onto the hub, you had to remove the entire hub assembly and then take it in and have the rotor pressed off, and the new one pressed on. Real PITA, and I wouldn't do it myself again, I'd take it in.

So the question that need answering is are the rotors pressed on? If not, it's gravy, like Joe said.

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Thanks guys...

did some digging like joe suggested on an f-150 forum

Turns out that the 4x4's have sealed hubs and the only thing that holds the rotor on is the wheel/lug nuts...

On a 4x2 its much more complicated because its part of the hub (sounds like Tim's situation)

So when I did the brakes myself, all I had to do if I had wanted to replace the rotors at that time was pull off the rotor by hand...

Only problem I've been warned of is if its rusted on... Which is supposedly very likely and common... Nothing a sawzall won't fix. :razz:

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Thanks guys...

On a 4x2 its much more complicated because its part of the hub (sounds like Tim's situation)

So when I did the brakes myself, all I had to do if I had wanted to replace the rotors at that time was pull off the rotor by hand...

Only problem I've been warned of is if its rusted on...  Which is supposedly very likely and common... Nothing a sawzall won't fix.   :razz:

4x2 is easy, just a spindle (basically a short little axle) with a big nut on the end. The rotor is sandwiched between two bearings and held on by the nut.

Sawzall won't help. You will need the other universal tool, a hammer. Spray it down around the studs with some pentrating oil first. There may be a little circular spring clip on the stud. Really just there to hold the rotor in place while the calipers are installed. You don't need to replace, just use two of the lug nuts (and some washers if necessary) to hold down the new rotors while installing the calipers. Once the brakes are on, they hold the rotor enough until the wheel is installed.

Steve

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Step 1: Remove wheels & calipers like you would to replace the pads. Push the piston back on the wheel you're going to change the brake pads on, first.

Step 2: Remove the caliper bracket if it interferes with removing the rotor (two bolts hold it in place from the inside of the spindle.

Step 3: Remove the rotor. If it won't come off easy, spray the center of the rotor with penetrating oil, then smack it on the rotor face (not the center of the hub!). Use a fairly large hammer, and don't be afraid to hurt the rotor. Rotate it and hit in different places if it's really stubborn.

Step 4: When the rotor is removed, you need to clean ALL of the rust from the hub face where the rotor sits. Otherwise, the rotor will not sit flat, and the brakes can pulsate. Use a combination of a grinding disc, scrapers, files & sandpaper to get this done. Just remember to not remove any of the metal, just the rust.

Be sure to get all around the studs as well.

Step 5: Apply some anti-sieze to the face of the hub, and around the center so the hub won't rust the next time.

Step 6: Install the rotor, and hold it in place with one or two wheel nuts.

Step 7: Clean the caliper bracket, or the spindle where the pads slide into. This needs to be clear of rust & shit so the pads won't bind, and wear unevenly. Apply silicone brake lubricant here, NOT anti-sieze, as it doesn't work as a lubricant.

Step 8: Install the caliper bracket, if applicable.

Step 9: Clean the caliper where the pads mate, to make sure they sit flat, and apply RTV silicone to the back of the pads, or "Disc Brake Quiet", to prevent the pads from squealing.

Step 10: Clean the rotor face with Brake Clean, and re-install the pads & calipers, making sure the caliper slider pins are clean, liberally lubricated, and move freely.

Step 11: Re-install the wheels, and TORQUE the lug nuts evenly. Unevenly tightened nuts can cause rotor warpage.

Pump the brakes up, then road test, braking lightly for the first few applications to help seat the pads to the rotors.

If there's one thing I can suggest, it's buy the best pads you can find. They'll last longer, produce less dust, make less noise, and brake better than the cheaper ones.

Hope it helps, Nik. :grin:

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If there's one thing I can suggest, it's buy the best pads you can find. They'll last longer, produce less dust, make less noise, and brake better than the cheaper ones.  

If I can suggest a second thing: change the pads before they eat the rotors. :grin:

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Hey Northman,

Want to come be a sales rep for my NAPA auto parts store?

most tech's just bang a new rotor on and punch on to the next job...then wonder why the brakes squeel and pulsate....you are doing it exactly right. This is PERFECT ADVICE.

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Hmm, I guess things have changed, but my 95 Bronco (F150 chassis) needed a special tool to remove the 4wd hubs. I have it, it's yours if it turns out you need it, though it might cost more to ship fast than to buy locally. I think it was $30.

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Yep, the 97-up front end is a different animal than it's predecessor.

No more twin beam IFS, etc. Most of the newer cars/trucks use a hub type of front bearing now, so the rotors are just "hats" sandwiched between the wheel & the hub.

Hey Northman,  

Want to come be a sales rep for my NAPA auto parts store?  

most tech's just bang a new rotor on and punch on to the next job...then wonder why the brakes squeel and pulsate....you are doing it exactly right. This is PERFECT ADVICE.

Thanks for the offer, Warren, but it might not pay what I make now as a licensed mechanic. :wink:

Where are you, anyway?

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