IcePrick Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 (edited) A few people asked, so I'll offer up my version. I will continue to edit this post to answer questions or address things I left out, and it will be a work in progress for a while. I won't get it done in one sitting, so please be patient. I did not engineer this hodgepodge, that was done by others who have gone before me - Stan, Alan, Redeye, and others. I am doing this writeup to repay my debt for stealing their research and effort. ZXXX - Bolt-on Pathway This conversion of wheels, forks, and brakes leans on the 2006-2007 ZX10R for many parts, and does not convert the swingarm or rear brakes to ZX14 trim. The benefits of using ZX10R wheels and rear brakes are that no welding or fabricating is needed to adapt the caliper bracket to the XX swingarm, nothing has to be done to adapt the axle diameter (same), the chain length remains the same, wheelbase remains the same, and the caliper needs only some aluminum standoffs with longer bolts to achieve the correct offset to meet the rotor. As for the front, ZX10R wheels are a popular conversion for the 14 crowd and they simply bolt up to a 14 fork with little drama, albeit with the 14 rotors. They're lighter, also. People are using them on 14's, and I haven't heard of catastrophic failures on that platform - which carries a little more weight and a measurable amount more power. The victim is a 1997 CBR1100XX, the FI models may have complications I am unaware of due to the FI intake and different radiator position - I just don't have a FI bike to test fit on. The 14's forks fit in the 929/RC51 SP1 combination of trees; the 929 stem, while a little longer than the XX, works. The bearings are the same. The steering stem lock is at the same position, but I don't have enough turn to get it to engage - still messing with it. More narrative to come on the general description. Forks: Pre-2012 Kawasaki ZX14 (2012 and up ZX14R may work, I don't know if anything is different) Front Brakes: Matching ZX14 master cylinder, calipers, lines, and rotors Lower Triple Tree: Honda 929, with stem and bearings. The bearings are the same as the XX. The bearings on the 954 are the same size - I can't vouch for the stem length, though. An RC51 SP-1 lower may work better (bearings the same as the XX), but caveats on the stem length here as well. The radiator clearance may be improved with the 51's clamp arrangement. Upper Triple Tree: 2000-2001 Honda RC51 SP-1. I don't know why a 929 upper wouldn't work, and may work better. Check back after I ebay a cheap one. Wheels: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R front and rear. Rear Brakes: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R caliper, mount/bracket, and master cylinder. *Jury is still out on the MC* Sprocket: 2000-2005 Kawasaki ZX12R 45T (Supersprox #ISB-SWP-9516) NOTE THAT THIS IS FROM THE 12R not the 10R as most everything else rotating. Controls: Carbed bikes: 2000-2005 Honda Superhawk right side switch and throttle assembly (2pcs). You will use the XX cables. I'll explain in the narrative why, and try to explain the re-wire that needs to be done. FI Bikes: I took a look at Stan's ZXXX, and he used the stock throttle/switchgear. He made it work by using the cables from a carbed XX - they're long enough to make the difference. Bonus for FI conversions. Clip-ons: DanMoto 50mm fully adjustable clipons. Problem: If you don't want to raise your bars a lot, these won't work - if you try to lower them, there will be interference issues with the brake banjo bolt. Stan has some very nice alternatives, I'll ask him to post the source. I don't see why RC51 or 929 clip-ons wouldn't work - or virtually any 50mm clip-ons, for that matter. Front Fender: OSBODYKIT (ebay seller) Carbon Fiber 2006-2007 ZX10R fender. Just personal preference over the 14's fender. Or you can source a stock 10R fender. Of course, the 14 fender will bolt right up if you don't hate the looks. Fender Brackets: Twowheelwerks.com brackets adapt the 10's fender to the 14's forks. $60 well spent for me, YMMV. *Rear Caliper Bolts: xxmm x dia x pitch allen head *Rear Caliper Spacers: xxmm x xx id x xx od aluminum round stock Rear Axle Spacers: stock#? * - waiting on these as the rear brake isn't fully sorted yet. I don't believe the problem is related to the components, but I don't want people to buy things only to find I have a component miscalculation. Prices/Sources: Forks: I got mine from the folks in Canada that make the T-Rex conversions - they have a lot of zero-mile take-offs. I paid $750 shipped for the entire front brake setup including rotors and rotor bolts, along with the forks, axle, spacers, and complete ZX14 triple (which I ended up not using). Front Brakes: See above. 929 Lower Triple with stem: I can't find the eBay receipt for mine, but I think it was $175. There is one up now for $200 - patience and a long-term acquisition plan is the key to frugality on these. RC51 SP-1 Upper Triple: $38 shipped from eBay. I know it was a felony. ZX10R Wheels: Keep an eye on eBay. I think I got a deal on mine for $350 shipped, and I sold the rotors for $110. I did bearings on both ends because the rear was totally shot. I should have done the cush drive as well. Rear Brakes: I just saw a complete rear brake setup - pedal, master, line, caliper, and mount/bracket - for $75 BIN on eBay. Sprocket: Indysuperbike.com. $102 shipped. I had a hard time finding this, and finding it cheap wasn't happening'. But it is a SuperSprox, which is generally a premium-priced sprocket. Controls: SuperHawk (VTR 1000) start/kill and throttle housing on eBay. I think if you spend $50 shipped for both that's a lot. For an FI bike, a set of used carb cables shouldn't be too burdensome. Clip-ons: Danmoto.com. $99 shipped via eBay, if you order off the website you pay $99 plus shipping. Front Fender: OSBODYKIT on eBay. $158 shipped, here in three days. From China. In three days, for chrissakes. From China. Fender Brackets: Twowheelwerks.com, $60 shipped. To Do: measure brake spacers (length, id, and od) measure caliper mount bolts identify rear axle spacer steering stops - not. Assembly narrative Narrative notes: (under construction) While I was thinking of filing down the lock pin for the steering lock to allow it to properly mate with the holes in the steering head (the steering won't turn as far with the new triples, as the offset is less), Stan suggested taking a die grinder to the holes instead. Simple problem, simple solution. One idea is better. Guess who? Steering stops: I haven't addressed this yet - haven't seen the need. Still looking for a rear master cylinder solution. The ZX10 brake is either too weak for the weight of the XX or the pedal effort is too high for another reason (using the correct m/c for the ZX10). Maybe a larger m/c, and maybe get really lucky to find one that fits the XX bolt holes. A consultation with Stan arrived at the conclusion that the setup I have should work - there's some other performance issue. I have to tear it down completely and diagnose. Edited May 24, 2015 by iFanboi 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexxus Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 A few people asked, so I'll offer up my version. I will continue to edit this post to answer questions or address things I left out, and it will be a work in progress for a while. I won't get it done in one sitting, so please be patient. I did not engineer this hodgepodge, that was done by others who have gone before me - Stan, Allen, Redeye, and others. I am doing this writeup to repay my debt for stealing their research and effort. ZXXX - Bolt-on Pathway This conversion of wheels, forks, and brakes leans on the 2006-2007 ZX10R for many parts, and does not convert the swingarm or rear brakes to ZX14 trim. The benefits of using ZX10R wheels and rear brakes are that no welding or fabricating is needed to adapt the caliper bracket to the XX swingarm, nothing has to be done to adapt the axle diameter (same), the chain length remains the same, wheelbase remains the same, and the caliper needs only some aluminum standoffs with longer bolts to achieve the correct offset to meet the rotor. As for the front, ZX10R wheels are a popular conversion for the 14 crowd and they simply bolt up to a 14 fork with little drama, albeit with the 14 rotors. They're lighter, also. People are using them on 14's, and I haven't heard of catastrophic failures on that platform - which carries a little more weight and a measurable amount more power. The victim is a 1997 CBR1100XX, the FI models may have complications I am unaware of due to the FI intake and different radiator position - I just don't have a FI bike to test fit on. The 14's forks fit in the 929/RC51 SP1 combination of trees, and the 929 stem, while a little longer than the XX, works. The bearings are the same. The steering stem lock is at the same position, but I don't have enough turn to get it to engage - still messing with it. More narrative to come on the general description. Forks: Pre-2012 Kawasaki ZX14 (2012 and up ZX14R may work, I don't know if anything is different) Front Brakes: Matching ZX14 master cylinder, calipers, lines, and rotors Lower Triple Tree: Honda 929, with stem and bearings. The bearings are the same as the XX. The bearings on the 954 are the same size - I can't vouch for the stem length, though. An RC51 SP-1 lower may work better (bearings the same as the XX), but caveats on the stem length here as well. The radiator clearance may be improved with the 51's clamp arrangement. Upper Triple Tree: 2000-2001 Honda RC51 SP-1. I don't know why a 929 upper wouldn't work, and may work better. Check back after I ebay a cheap one. Wheels: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R front and rear. Rear Brakes: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R caliper, mount/bracket, and master cylinder. Sprocket: 2000-2005 Kawasaki ZX12R 45T (Supersprox #ISB-SWP-9516) NOTE THAT THIS IS FROM THE 12R not the 10R as most everything else rotating. Controls: 2000-2005 Honda Superhawk right side switch and throttle assembly (2pcs). You will use the XX cables. I'll explain in the narrative why, and try to explain the re-wire that needs to be done. Clip-ons: DanMoto xxmm fully adjustable clipons Front Fender: OSBODYKIT (ebay seller) Carbon Fiber 2006-2007 ZX10R fender. Just personal preference over the 14's fender. Or you can source a stock 10R fender. Fender Brackets: Twowheelwerks.com brackets adapt the 10's fender to the 14's forks. $60 well spent for me, YMMV. Rear Caliper Bolts: xxmm x dia x pitch allen head Rear Caliper Spacers: xxmm x xx id x xx od aluminum round stock Rear Axle Spacers: To Do: measure brake spacers (length, id, and od) measure caliper mount bolts identify rear axle spacer steering stops - not. Price list Source list Assembly narrative Thank you.Very nice write up. gives me ideals for the other bike. Hmmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverbird2 Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 A few people asked, so I'll offer up my version. I will continue to edit this post to answer questions or address things I left out, and it will be a work in progress for a while. I won't get it done in one sitting, so please be patient. I did not engineer this hodgepodge, that was done by others who have gone before me - Stan, Alan, Redeye, and others. I am doing this writeup to repay my debt for stealing their research and effort. ZXXX - Bolt-on Pathway This conversion of wheels, forks, and brakes leans on the 2006-2007 ZX10R for many parts, and does not convert the swingarm or rear brakes to ZX14 trim. The benefits of using ZX10R wheels and rear brakes are that no welding or fabricating is needed to adapt the caliper bracket to the XX swingarm, nothing has to be done to adapt the axle diameter (same), the chain length remains the same, wheelbase remains the same, and the caliper needs only some aluminum standoffs with longer bolts to achieve the correct offset to meet the rotor. As for the front, ZX10R wheels are a popular conversion for the 14 crowd and they simply bolt up to a 14 fork with little drama, albeit with the 14 rotors. They're lighter, also. People are using them on 14's, and I haven't heard of catastrophic failures on that platform - which carries a little more weight and a measurable amount more power. The victim is a 1997 CBR1100XX, the FI models may have complications I am unaware of due to the FI intake and different radiator position - I just don't have a FI bike to test fit on. The 14's forks fit in the 929/RC51 SP1 combination of trees; the 929 stem, while a little longer than the XX, works. The bearings are the same. The steering stem lock is at the same position, but I don't have enough turn to get it to engage - still messing with it. More narrative to come on the general description. Forks: Pre-2012 Kawasaki ZX14 (2012 and up ZX14R may work, I don't know if anything is different) Front Brakes: Matching ZX14 master cylinder, calipers, lines, and rotors Lower Triple Tree: Honda 929, with stem and bearings. The bearings are the same as the XX. The bearings on the 954 are the same size - I can't vouch for the stem length, though. An RC51 SP-1 lower may work better (bearings the same as the XX), but caveats on the stem length here as well. The radiator clearance may be improved with the 51's clamp arrangement. Upper Triple Tree: 2000-2001 Honda RC51 SP-1. I don't know why a 929 upper wouldn't work, and may work better. Check back after I ebay a cheap one. Wheels: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R front and rear. Rear Brakes: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R caliper, mount/bracket, and master cylinder. *Jury is still out on the MC* Sprocket: 2000-2005 Kawasaki ZX12R 45T (Supersprox #ISB-SWP-9516) NOTE THAT THIS IS FROM THE 12R not the 10R as most everything else rotating. Controls: 2000-2005 Honda Superhawk right side switch and throttle assembly (2pcs). You will use the XX cables. I'll explain in the narrative why, and try to explain the re-wire that needs to be done. Clip-ons: DanMoto 50mm fully adjustable clipons Front Fender: OSBODYKIT (ebay seller) Carbon Fiber 2006-2007 ZX10R fender. Just personal preference over the 14's fender. Or you can source a stock 10R fender. Of course, the 14 fender will bolt right up if you don't hate the looks. Fender Brackets: Twowheelwerks.com brackets adapt the 10's fender to the 14's forks. $60 well spent for me, YMMV. Rear Caliper Bolts: xxmm x dia x pitch allen head Rear Caliper Spacers: xxmm x xx id x xx od aluminum round stock Rear Axle Spacers: Prices/Sources: Forks: I got mine from the folks in Canada that make the T-Rex conversions - they have a lot of zero-mile take-offs. I paid $750 shipped for the entire front brake setup including rotors and rotor bolts, along with the forks, axle, spacers, and complete ZX14 triple (which I ended up not using). Front Brakes: See above. 929 Lower Triple with stem: I can't find the receipt for mine, but I think it was $175. There is one up now for $200 - patience and a long-term acquisition plan is the key to frugality on these. RC51 SP-1 Upper Triple: $38 shipped from eBay. I know it was a felony. ZX10R Wheels: Keep an eye on eBay. I think I got a deal on mine for $350 shipped, and I sold the rotors for $110. I did bearings on both ends because the rear was totally shot. I should have done the cush drive as well. Rear Brakes: I just saw a complete rear brake setup - pedal, master, line, caliper, and mount/bracket - for $75 BIN on eBay. Sprocket: Indysuperbike.com. $102 shipped. I had a hard time finding this, and finding it cheap wasn't happenin'. Controls: SuperHawk (VTR 1000) start/kill and throttle housing on eBay. I think if you spend $50 shipped for both that's a lot. Clip-ons: Danmoto.com. $99 shipped via eBay, if you order off the website you pay $99 plus shipping. Front Fender: OSBODYKIT on eBay. $158 shipped, here in three days. From China. In three days, for chrissakes. From China. Fender Brackets: Twowheelwerks.com, $60 shipped. To Do: measure brake spacers (length, id, and od) measure caliper mount bolts identify rear axle spacer steering stops - not. Assembly narrative Nice write up, thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhubarbray Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Thanks for the writeup, a great help. Now if I can just separate the "want" mods from the "need" mods, I`ll be all set. That, and the money. Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 So, a couple years down the road and I'm pretty happy with the setup, though the rear brake is still giving me issues. Stan stared at it for a few minutes and gave me a couple thoughts that I'll pursue as time permits. I don't believe it's an issue related to the component selection but rather a wonky ebay caliper. I may go to a heavier fork oil as the compression damping is only two clicks out, but the front brakes are positively dreamy and the geometry is right at last after some fiddling. Joe has brought it to my attention that I never completed a couple things here - namely, some crucial measurements and the narrative of how it all goes together. When I get back in town, I'll do the measuring and do my best to recall the assembly, though it's very straight forward and there are no real tricks to it. I'll snap some photos and such as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 The bottom line: knowing what you know now, would you do it again, is it worth it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 (edited) The bottom line: knowing what you know now, would you do it again, is it worth it? By far, yes. If only for the front brake feel. I had a Racetech valved OEM front with springs, and the ZX is measurably better. Springing it and valving it would provide additional improvement, but it's good enough for my limited skills now. My intent is to change the oil and go with 2.5 heavier, as the compression adjustment is just two clicks off full. I'll try that before messing with the valving. Edited May 24, 2015 by iFanboi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 I had a Racetech valved OEM front with springs, Do you still have it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 Sorry, it's gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf1999 Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Ok I'm a little lost and I hope I don't sound stupid but what all will you need to do this conversion and how much fab work is needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Ok I'm a little lost and I hope I don't sound stupid but what all will you need to do this conversion and how much fab work is needed Forks: Pre-2012 Kawasaki ZX14 (2012 and up ZX14R may work, I don't know if anything is different) Front Brakes: Matching ZX14 master cylinder, calipers, lines, and rotors Lower Triple Tree: Honda 929, with stem and bearings. The bearings are the same as the XX. The bearings on the 954 are the same size - I can't vouch for the stem length, though. An RC51 SP-1 lower may work better (bearings the same as the XX), but caveats on the stem length here as well. The radiator clearance may be improved with the 51's clamp arrangement. Upper Triple Tree: 2000-2001 Honda RC51 SP-1. I don't know why a 929 upper wouldn't work, and may work better. Check back after I ebay a cheap one. Wheels: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R front and rear. Rear Brakes: 2006-2007 Kawasaki ZX10R caliper, mount/bracket, and master cylinder. *Jury is still out on the MC* Sprocket: 2000-2005 Kawasaki ZX12R 45T (Supersprox #ISB-SWP-9516) NOTE THAT THIS IS FROM THE 12R not the 10R as most everything else rotating. Controls: Carbed bikes: 2000-2005 Honda Superhawk right side switch and throttle assembly (2pcs). You will use the XX cables. I'll explain in the narrative why, and try to explain the re-wire that needs to be done. FI Bikes: I took a look at Stan's ZXXX, and he used the stock throttle/switchgear. He made it work by using the cables from a carbed XX - they're long enough to make the difference. Bonus for FI conversions. Clip-ons: DanMoto 50mm fully adjustable clipons. Problem: If you don't want to raise your bars a lot, these won't work - if you try to lower them, there will be interference issues with the brake banjo bolt. Stan has some very nice alternatives, I'll ask him to post the source. I don't see why RC51 or 929 clip-ons wouldn't work - or virtually any 50mm clip-ons, for that matter. Front Fender: OSBODYKIT (ebay seller) Carbon Fiber 2006-2007 ZX10R fender. Just personal preference over the 14's fender. Or you can source a stock 10R fender. Of course, the 14 fender will bolt right up if you don't hate the looks. Fender Brackets: Twowheelwerks.com brackets adapt the 10's fender to the 14's forks. $60 well spent for me, YMMV. *Rear Caliper Bolts: xxmm x dia x pitch allen head *Rear Caliper Spacers: xxmm x xx id x xx od aluminum round stock Everything just bolts on, no fabrication that I recall other than the rear caliper spacers. I'm guessing there will be an OEM part of some sort that can be utilized, the key is finding it once I have the dimensions down. I don't have dimensions for them right now as I haven't settled on a length yet. Ditto on the rear caliper bolts, as they will be dependent on the spacer length. Other than that, a minor rewire of the SuperHawk right switch assembly. Perhaps a more elegant solution for mounting the front brake MC reservoir as mine is simply zip-tied at the moment. I never "fixed" the lack of a steering stop, the steering is limited enough to be safe as it is and it doesn't annoy me. Should be da bomb with your extended swing arm, especially if you chrome it. FYI, doing the conversion and using ZX14 wheels and swing arm will extend your wheelbase by around 2" IIRC - and there are probably a lot more fancy ZX14 swing arms out there on eBay and such. That rear-end swap is outside of my experience, but there are other write-ups detailing the swing arm conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf1999 Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 My bike still had the brakes linked. How did you guys get around that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Go back and read the list of stuff you're replacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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