Fork and swing arm upgrades

[kiwimack]

After following the ZXXX thread and reading all the other associated threads I am about to join the ZXX bandwagon.

To accomplish this I will need the following: (please correct me where needed.)

FRONT END

1. RC51 TRIPLE TREE COMPLETE

2. REPLACEMENT MASTER CYLINDERS.

3. NEW HYDRAULIC LINES.

4. Z12/14 FORKS.

5. FRONT FENDER.

6. RADIAL CALIPERS.

7. FRONT ROTORS.

8. FRONT WHEEL.

9. HANDLE BARS

REAR END

1. Z12/14 SWINGARM

2. CUSTOM DOGBONE.

3. REAR SHOCK.

4. ROTOR.

5. CALIPER.

6. BRAKE LINE.

7. NEW LONGER CHAIN.

I am guessing that the reason it is the Z forks is because of the length right?

Talk to me. Tell what am I missing here.

Mack

[Skull]

Your lists look good. The reason why? Well, Stan did it, and it was cool, and it rode better. Most of my projects don't really need a reason why, exactly...

[partsman]

What are you using for a rr wheel?

[IcePrick]

I can't vouch for the RC51 lower, as I have the 929/954 lower with the RC51 (SP1) upper. Looking at the line diagrams and eBay pictures, I don't see why the SP1 lower wouldn't work. Steering stops will have to be fabbed no matter what. One might be able to use shorter forks with the 929/954 upper as it has a "gull wing" shape. 1000RR forks would be purty...

I used the 14 front brake lines and master. The line from the master might be a bit stretched, but that may be my aftermarket bar configuration. If you go with that, you may have to make accommodations for the throttle and switchgear - I'm dealing with that now. The XX cable exit from the throttle grip housing interferes with the 14's brake lever travel.

I re-used the XX clutch master. The ZX would work, I'm told, but I don't know if there would be fitment issues at the bars if you use something aftermarket. The XX master has marginal interference on the aftermarket bars, but it's going to be fine.

A ZX-10 fender works and looks good with an adapter - if you're interested, I'll dig through receipts and let you know where I got the adapter and what year the 10 fender needs to be. I may have posted it previously...

The ZX-10 front wheel bolts up to the 14 forks with the 14 spacers. I like the looks of the 10 wheels, and they are a little lighter than the 14 wheels. I don't know if they will have issues with the weight of the XX. Someone will let the forum know if I find out the hard way that they don't. Obviously, none of this is an issue if you use the 14 wheels and fender. Just a thought, as the 10 wheels were readily available on eBay.

Using the 10 rear wheel keeps you from having to change the swingarm, shock, dogbone, chain, etc. To work, it needs the 12 sprocket, a specific year 10 caliper/bracket, and some stock Kwak wheel shims. I have not road tested the rear brake mount yet, but it *looks* like it will work without issues. I can get the specifics if you're interested.

Still looking for a place to mount the horn. Not a problem, there's plenty of room, I just don't feel like tearing the whole thing apart *again* to drill and tap a spot on the lower. I'll have to re-wire the 14 kill/run/start switchgear to plug in to the XX harness, and figure out a way to run the 14 throttle cables to the XX carbs.

Ask away... I'll take pics or measurements if you want/need them.

[cbrxxquad]

Should be zx10 zx 14 cause the zx12 stuff I don't know if it will work.

I have a rc51 sp1 lower comming and a after market upper ordered, still need the upper bearing, have the lower. Just to see.

Mike the stock controls, electrical, should work with the zx masters and xx throttle. The problem with the way the throttle cables come out can be repaired with a new index hole to put the cables above the lever. but I used the carb throttle cables cause they are longer. The reason the zx masters and clutch is the added volume of the four piston calibers. You might find the xx are fine though. Being the linked lines adds required volume. I found that I had to go to the larger goldwing master on the quad with the four piston radial calipers as the lever feel was not correct. I think the redial master and clutch and remote reservoirs are much better but the mounts for the reservoirs had to be modified to clear correctly.

The zx rear swing arm, is two inches longer, and the wheel,,,zx? will fit in the xx arm. If you want.

I could go on,,for ever, so I won't.

[kiwimack]

I can't vouch for the RC51 lower, as I have the 929/954 lower with the RC51 (SP1) upper. Looking at the line diagrams and eBay pictures, I don't see why the SP1 lower wouldn't work. Steering stops will have to be fabbed no matter what. One might be able to use shorter forks with the 929/954 upper as it has a "gull wing" shape. 1000RR forks would be purty...

I used the 14 front brake lines and master. The line from the master might be a bit stretched, but that may be my aftermarket bar configuration. If you go with that, you may have to make accommodations for the throttle and switchgear - I'm dealing with that now. The XX cable exit from the throttle grip housing interferes with the 14's brake lever travel.

I re-used the XX clutch master. The ZX would work, I'm told, but I don't know if there would be fitment issues at the bars if you use something aftermarket. The XX master has marginal interference on the aftermarket bars, but it's going to be fine.

A ZX-10 fender works and looks good with an adapter - if you're interested, I'll dig through receipts and let you know where I got the adapter and what year the 10 fender needs to be. I may have posted it previously...

The ZX-10 front wheel bolts up to the 14 forks with the 14 spacers. I like the looks of the 10 wheels, and they are a little lighter than the 14 wheels. I don't know if they will have issues with the weight of the XX. Someone will let the forum know if I find out the hard way that they don't. Obviously, none of this is an issue if you use the 14 wheels and fender. Just a thought, as the 10 wheels were readily available on eBay.

Using the 10 rear wheel keeps you from having to change the swingarm, shock, dogbone, chain, etc. To work, it needs the 12 sprocket, a specific year 10 caliper/bracket, and some stock Kwak wheel shims. I have not road tested the rear brake mount yet, but it *looks* like it will work without issues. I can get the specifics if you're interested.

Still looking for a place to mount the horn. Not a problem, there's plenty of room, I just don't feel like tearing the whole thing apart *again* to drill and tap a spot on the lower. I'll have to re-wire the 14 kill/run/start switchgear to plug in to the XX harness, and figure out a way to run the 14 throttle cables to the XX carbs.

Ask away... I'll take pics or measurements if you want/need them.

I saw in your post that the lower stem you used was hitting the oil cooler. I haven't decided which bird to do it on, either the 97 or the 03, but the oil cooler is mounted differently on the 03, so maybe the 929/954 lower would work.

One reason I am thinking of using the 12/14 swingarm is it looks like the easier way to go in that it bolts right in using the xx hardware and 'only' requires a custom dog bone. it will also mean I won't have to machine anything to have rear brakes, and I like the look of the 12/14 swingarm. Having said that I am interested in the mod you did to the rear wheel and how the brake is working now.

Using the 10 wheels is an option butt it wouldn't be to save weight.

At the end of the day I am hoping to have something that looks factory with minimal welding and cutting.

[cbrxxquad]

Just installed the sp1 rc51 trees.

Notes.

need a .100 spacer under the lower bearing and seal to space the tree away from the frame. It will rub and that ain't good,

cut the stops off and drilled and tapped a hole for a 8mm bolt and spacer to hit the frame stops at the bottom.

Place so it will limit and far enough away from the frame,,,neck, Not that easy to locate, but works perfect.

Had to a round the sharp edge that the lower clamp bolts seat on because they hit the ram air tubes.

Have not rode it yet so not sure how it feels.

Started this morning and just got to the point that I was almost done, just need to figure how the garmin is going to mount now. different...

And yes the xx top nut works.

[EVLXX]

Just installed the sp1 rc51 trees.

And yes the xx top nut works.

That is Very Nice Looking.

Very Nice.

[IcePrick]

I saw in your post that the lower stem you used was hitting the oil cooler. I haven't decided which bird to do it on, either the 97 or the 03, but the oil cooler is mounted differently on the 03, so maybe the 929/954 lower would work.

One reason I am thinking of using the 12/14 swingarm is it looks like the easier way to go in that it bolts right in using the xx hardware and 'only' requires a custom dog bone. it will also mean I won't have to machine anything to have rear brakes, and I like the look of the 12/14 swingarm. Having said that I am interested in the mod you did to the rear wheel and how the brake is working now.

Using the 10 wheels is an option butt it wouldn't be to save weight.

At the end of the day I am hoping to have something that looks factory with minimal welding and cutting.

The lower stem is hitting the cooler at almost full lock absent any steering stops. Steering stops will eliminate that, I'm just wondering if the RC stem will allow for a little more steering travel. I don't think it's an issue, really - stops will have to be fabbed either way. With Stan's install complete, it looks as if the stops on the RC have to be removed also so there's no savings/additional utility there. The 929 lower didn't require any shimming of bearings, but I'm not as precise as Stan . But really, I don't see any interference with the 929 lower and SP1 upper.

The rear brake setup with the ZX10 wheel I have is bolt-on and uses stock Kawasaki shims - no machining. Really, there's nothing to do but bolt stuff up. I still don't have a road test, but it was silly simple.

[JoWhee]

Started this morning and just got to the point that I was almost done, just need to figure how the garmin is going to mount now. different...

And yes the xx top nut works.

A 12mm hex nut through the top nut won't work? You just have to tighten the ram mount to it, (4000km and holding on mine). Of course you may not want to hide that beautiful piece of art.

The only issue I have is a little bit of surface rust, I'm trying to figure out what product I can put on there to stop the vibrations and rust.

[kiwimack]

Stan,

It looks good, thanks for the info.

Regarding the mount for the GPS.

I went and got an 8mm flange bolt and cut the head off it then drilled it out large enough to take the threaded rod that fit the ram mount. I used the cut off flange head in the underside of the top nut then double nutted it to get the top nut tight. it has worked fine for me. I have since found the following

The bolt that is used in the XX front fork to secure the axel has an 8mm flange head

Somewhere on the bird is also an 8mm flange nut I can't remember where or if indeed I got it from the bird.

With the ram being imperial and the bike stuff metric.

It seems that it would have been prettier if I had threaded part of an 8mm bolt to fit the ram mount but left enough of the 8mm thread to secure the flange nut to the top nut.

Back on topic:

Icepick, I am interested in the ride report for the rear brake cheers

mack

[IcePrick]

A mounting ball with the 1/4-20 stud works perfectly. Need a 1/4 drive long extension to reach up through the steering tube to tighten the nut.

I'm hoping to get the throttle issue resolved today, maybe get an afternoon test ride in.

[cbrxxquad]

I had a studded ball and on the zx tree a long bolt and collar and a forked washer. the ball and collar tightened on the fake xx top nut and the bolt went all the way through the stem and tightened on the forked washer. Would not work on the rvt tree. hole was too small. Sooo I taped the hole 3/4 11 thread and took a 3/4 bolt and drilled and taped the center the same as the studded ball and cut the head off and now the center of the hex on the top tree nut is the same as the studded ball. Screws right in.

Finished and took for a ride. Some things different. With the way the zx tree and stem is longer than the xx neck you have to use spacers, and the top tree is higher than the stock is. The forks are 1/2 inch shorter than the stock xx too. This means the front is lower all things considered. I have used the front of the faring to the ground on the centerstand to relate the diferences as it is a fixed common point. Any difference here shows in the handling.

If you don't mind Mack, being it's your thread.

The Zx tree and forks in their stock location installed in the xx neted a 4.25"

Stock xx was 5"

rc51 in the xx with the forks mounted with the same sticking out of the top tree as the zx, 5". Part of this is the fact the offset between the three trees is different. The least moves the wheel closer to the body. Reducing the trail. Right Tim? Making it easier to turn in. Not sure where the xx fits but the rc is more offset than the zx.

Now for feel, and setup. Proper sag is 30% of travel. I say real travel. Measured with a tie rap, and a real ride. When I have the front forks in the right place, I can change the preload +1 for highway travel, -1 for twisties, -2 for tight twisties. Luggage,-1. Or so.

I have all the preload out and it feels highway, till I try and turn, and it feels like twisties. Think I am going to lower it some till I get the preload right. Not to sure just yet due to the offset being more on the rc.

Thanks Mack