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Ignition key is difficult to put in and take out.................


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As the subject line(s) states, the key is becoming more and more difficult to get out of the switch.

The locking fuel cap is becoming difficult to open as well.

What do you guys suggest I use to remedy this?

.....and yes, I will listen to all your smart-ass replies as well. :icon_evilgrin:

Thanks.

Jim

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As the subject line(s) states, the key is becoming more and more difficult to get out of the switch.

The locking fuel cap is becoming difficult to open as well.

What do you guys suggest I use to remedy this?

.....and yes, I will listen to all your smart-ass replies as well. :icon_evilgrin:

Thanks.

Jim

I hit mine with wd 40 when they start getting difficult.

2cents

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WD 40 on the tabs in the gas cap too.

My key would turn, but the tank would not open. Pushing down, and wiggling the key finally opened the cap.

I give it a spray every few months now. No problems since.

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Same problem... bike sat while. Environment took its toll. Get a new key cut... use some lube(you probably have plenty of that lying around). jk, no petroleum based lubes, like they said, WD40 or graphite powder

In what world is WD-40 not petroleum-based?

I have used it before, but prefer silicon spray because it attracts far less dirt.

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In what world is WD-40 not petroleum-based?

51% Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits: primarily hexane, somewhat similar to kerosene)

25% liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)

15+% mineral oil (light lubricating oil)

10-% inert ingredients

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In what world is WD-40 not petroleum-based?

I have used it before, but prefer silicon spray because it attracts far less dirt.

+1, WD-40 is not a lubricant, it's a penetrating oil (and a really shitty one at that, with great marketing and cult status). Once the solvent evaporates it's more of a dirt attractant than anything. Silicone or teflon ftw.

And if you want a better penetrating oil, get a small spray bottle and use a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF. I'm sure I've posted this before:

"Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Type of penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ................................ 516 pounds

WD-40 ............................ 238 pounds

PB Blaster .......................214 pounds

Liquid Wrench .............. 127 pounds

Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix......... 53 pounds

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FWIW, WD-40 is a water displacement, not an oil or a solvent or anything else. That it has some properties like them, doesn't make it a lubricant. Use graphite or a light oil of some type. Anything that floats your boat.

WD-40 is the trademark name of a water-displacing spray. It was developed in 1953 by Norm Larsen, founder of the Rocket Chemical Company, San Diego, California. It was originally designed to repel water and prevent corrosion,[1] and later was found to have numerous household uses.

Hell, I use break free from my gun kit on almost everything that I don't want a lot of residue or dirt attraction on.

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I have had much trouble opening the fuel cap with the key. Finally found that the key now goes in just a bit too far & so sticks. This results in the key being slightly twisted, making it hard to get into the ignition.

The other thing I have found is that if I get it a little out of line as it goes into the ignition, due to wear on the tip, the slots get jammed. So important to ensure I have it lined up correctly when inserting.

I tried lock lubricants, but nothing helped like realising I have to have it in just the right position to get it to turn.

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FWIW, WD-40 is a water displacement, not an oil or a solvent or anything else.

When I was a kid, the next door neighbor had a 70 Super Bee that wouldn't start in the rain. He sprayed the dist. cap and wires with WD-40 and it started right up.

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In what world is WD-40 not petroleum-based?

51% Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits: primarily hexane, somewhat similar to kerosene)

25% liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)

15+% mineral oil (light lubricating oil)

10-% inert ingredients

From Ask.com:

Mineral spirits is a Stoddard solvent made from petroleum that's used to thin paints or to clean up after painting. It's used to clean machine parts, or to remove grease and oil from equipment.

Mineral oil, also called liquid petroleum, paraffin oil or white mineral oil is an inexpensive byproduct produced in the purification of petroleum and during the production of gasoline and other petrochemical products from crude oil.

Read more: What is Mineral Oil Made of? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/about_5542000_mineral-...l#ixzz20FBtoXVV

Wait a minute. Were you dis-agreeing or just posting info as back up?

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WD 40.....I put that shit on everything.

It works for the sticky keys, gets the oil over-spray from the Pro-oiler off, removes adhesive residue, I pre treat clothing before I wash it to get off oil, grease or grass stains, gets water spots off windows. It's fucking magic I tell you.

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