Zero Knievel Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 That looks like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 When i pulled the cap off mine, the bus connectors stayed with the harness and did not come off with the cap. I would have been confused too, if that had not happened and i was just looking at a bunch of empty pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Well, I FINALLY got it done. The three smaller groups were somewhat easier. The biggest frustration was the thinner gauge wires. The wire-stripping tool didn't go down that small, so I had to work slowly and carefully with a razor blade to cut the insulation off and expose the wires. On the smaller groups, I took some leftover solderless terminals, Dremelled off the plastic (which comes off easily when you DON'T want it to but bonds like adamantium when you WANT it to pop right off the terminal), and clipped off the terminal portion. This left a collapsible metal ring I could use to bind the wires together. Then I fired up the solder gun and dabbed solder as best I could about and around the terminal. Applied some heat-shrink and then wrapped them in self-bonding rubber tape and push them out of the way. The large group of 10 was a different matter. I tried to "unweave" the wires as I went to eliminate the tangling of them from pulling one group with another. There was no way I was going to try and heat up a thimble of solder like some suggested. Working with groups of 3 wires was difficult enough. I wound up finding some leftover "mini" zip-ties. Used one to bind all the wires together in a tight bundle. Again, I worked with the solder and gooped it on as best as I could. While the smaller bundles were a bit on top and carefully twist to get some on the bottom. This big batch took three applications, but I got 360 coverage. Cut off the zip tie. Applied some heat-shrink and more self-bonding tape. Pressed them back up against the harness and used a combination of self-bonding tape and electrical tape to seal it all back onto the harness. I've not tested anything yet, and I don't anticipate any problems. So far, the biggest maintenance issues of the winter are done. I've checked ALL electrical connections for any signs of trouble (to try and figure out why I had problems last summer) and found nothing. I did the loom fix for good measure WITHOUT the amount of trouble I was expecting to find doing it. I checked the air filter and have the tank back on. I just have to test the stator before wiring on the new R/R, and after that all that's left are fluids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 You packaged it all back together w/o testing first? Really dude? You must have more time than me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 You packaged it all back together w/o testing first? Really dude? You must have more time than me. Well, the bike is still in pieces. I have to test the stator. For that I'll have to crank it up. It'll work or not work. If not, the wires are right there. I'd like to say the job, once started with good instructions, was idiot-proof, but I know better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 For those with nothing better to do on Sunday....it's working fine now. I'm now trying to hard-wire the stator line to the R/R. I'm having to add 6 inches of wire so I can have enough to work with. Finally got it together. BIG DIFFERENCE. Can't say for sure if the old R/R was toasting out (given how corrosion was affecting a couple of stator wires), but where I normally saw 14.8-14.9 with an occasional jump to 15.1, the new R/R is keeping it around 14.4-14.5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider99XX Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 My 99 had the usual symptons of the FI light coming on when I hit the brakes or used the turn signal so I pulled the test plug out and looked inside. There was only 3 pins that were corroded and they really didn't look that bad. So I just cleaned the pins and socket and replaced the cap. Reconnected the battery and fired it up. It looked like light show. Everything was blinking including the headlight. So I said SHIT!! Then I went ahead and did the clip and solder thing and everything is working again. The plug on my 99 had the 10 green wires on one side and the other had 3 white, 2 yellow, then 3 more green. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted August 29, 2019 Share Posted August 29, 2019 On 1/8/2012 at 1:32 PM, TuffguyF4i said: Zero...the block is completely encased in tape. Start from the back of the bike instead of the top. It is directly above the chain almost where the swingarm bolts to the frame. There is only one place there is a big lump in the harness. I didn't take the tank off at all. Note...disconnect the battery before you start messing with wires. You can short out anything and everything including the ECM from the test loom. pic of the connector @australiaray1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
australiaray1 Posted September 23, 2019 Share Posted September 23, 2019 yer i cut this plug out ... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.