FiremanBob Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 I have to transport the Bird (with everything else I own) in a rent-a-truck next week. Penske told me that I have to remove the bikes' gas tanks before loading - failure to do this would void the rental agreement. I read in the Clymer's that the tank does not have a diaphragm petcock and I can expect gas to leak out when I disconnect it from the system. Is this right? What should I do in order to complete this job safely and neatly? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 I have to transport the Bird (with everything else I own) in a rent-a-truck next week. Penske told me that I have to remove the bikes' gas tanks before loading - failure to do this would void the rental agreement. I read in the Clymer's that the tank does not have a diaphragm petcock and I can expect gas to leak out when I disconnect it from the system. Is this right? What should I do in order to complete this job safely and neatly? Thanks. Yes. It will leak. I doubt you have time, BUT, you could install quick disconnects on the fuel line like I did, but it will cost money to do that. Otherwise, just dismount the tank, drain it, and let it air dry as best as you can before closing it up and capping off the fuel lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partsman Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 I think I would first look to rent elsewhere.However,very little drips out,just have a bolt ready to block the line with and be careful how you position the tank for transport as I'm sure you will.Be careful lifting the tank up to get at the lines,if you stretched too hard the line can leak,don't ask me how I know.I use a mallet to prop it up.Its actually pretty accessible from the sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 First, I'd verify with a senior customer rep that you can't put the bike in there with the gas drained. Breaking open the fuel system leaves residual gas that can vaporize with continuous sloshing. Sealing this stuff up isn't easy. It seems silly to screw up a closed system, not to mention the added difficulties of packaging a tank. They only seem to fit well in the space they were designed for...on the bike. Anyway, if you just have to do this....... *Remove seat. *Remove two bolts from back of tank. *Separate the gauge connection that leads out from under the tank and runs back the left side of the subframe. Look near the + post of the battery. *Pop the rear of your left and right dash panels straight out from the sides. They will bend. *Lift the rear of the tank about 4 inches and set a block of wood underneath, or have a trusted helper hold the tank up. (yes, the factory kit has this tool, but I find a block more stable and simpler to use) *Press the tab and pull the brown fuel pump connector off. Now you can raise the tank much higher to work on the fuel lines. *Shut off the gas flow or be prepared to have gas running everywhere. --I prefer to close the lines using a soft-jawed clamp. There are numerous ones out there, including nice cheapies from Harbor Freight. You can use vice-grips with some wood shims, or just a shop rag if that's all ya got. You're only closing the hole in the hose, not trying to cut it in half. --It doesn't matter which side you remove first. The system is pressurized, its gonna spray. Wrap the connection with a shop rag. *Crack the 17mm cap nut on the left and then easily remove it by hand. Don't lose the two crush washers on either side of the banjo fitting. *Remove the right side return line clamp with pliers and work the hose off. *Trace the other two hoses coming from the bottom of the tank. Note their location and unclip them. *Remove the block from the under the rear of the tank. With one hand hold the tank by the rear mount about two inches above its installed height. Wiggle the tank side to side and up and down as you pull back on the mount. You can help by placing the fingers of your other hand under the lip at the forward edge of the tank to guide and push to the rear of the bike. Be mindful that as you wiggle the tank up and down, you can crush your fingers, causing serious injury. When you feel discomfort in those fingers, natural tendency is to lift the tank, which will put more pressure on your fingers using the leverage afforded by the entire length of the tank. No need to inquire as to my obvious knowledge of this potential situation. *As the tank eases free of the front mount, tipping the tank slightly to the right and moving the front of the tank to the left will help to clear the throttle cables. *Set the tank down on the clean, non-marring surface you previously prepared. Set the two gas hoses at a height higher than the tank and plug the return line. I use a golf tee. I also prefer to set the tank upside down. The gas won't leak out the cap and you can position the hoses above the gas in case your clamp isn't 100% effective. I prefer this because contact area is maximized and more easily managed. Setting the tank down down rightside up places the entire weight on the welded edges of the tank. Minimal surface area results in high load per square inch and increases the chance of a mar or chip in the paint. *Cap the fuel connections on the bike as you are able. Remember there's still fuel in the fuel rail, so tape may not work well in this application. You can tip the bike side to side to drain the rail, but you won't get it all out. *Secure the tank and you're ready to go. Be sure the front mounting rubbers are contained so they don't get lost in the mix, as well as the rear mount bolts and their metal and rubber sleeves. *Reinstallation is straightforward with two concerns: 1. Remember to set the tank down with the lip of the left and right dash panels under the edge of the tank. 2. Be cautious when pushing the tank forward into place once you have the front mounting rubbers in their slot. Its happened that an XX can be pushed off the centerstand by a generous attempt to locate the tank back into its mounting position. Good luck with your relocation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 Fantastic writeup Joe. The warning about the center stand is right on. I have come close. There is only thing I would add. Take pictures of the fuel and vaccuum lines under the tank. I have pulled some off during service and had challenges finding where they went. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy Dave Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 ....Penske ain't gonna be there when you transport the bike. And if we can transport new cars in enclosed carriers, you should have no problem. If it ain't leaking now, it ain't gonna leak in their truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 ....Penske ain't gonna be there when you transport the bike. And if we can transport new cars in enclosed carriers, you should have no problem. If it ain't leaking now, it ain't gonna leak in their truck. They might be worried more about explosion hazard should there be a fire, but even then, an empty gas tank is a greater threat of explosion than a full tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beestoys Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 One other thing you can do if it is an injected bird. Pinch off the return line to the pressure regulator as close to the regulator as possible without cutting because the pliers pushed the hose against the end of the fitting. I would say about and inch back is safe. Have a gas gan right there with the filler neck extended, slip the end of the hose into the gas can neck and unclamp your pliers or whatever you used and the tank will now be draining it's contents. You can get at least 95% of the fuel out this way. Look for something to prop the tank up in the back just enough to keep from kinking the hose and let her drain. You can shine a light down in through the filler neck to check your progress. There will still be fuel in the main line and there isn't a clean way to get it off so I usually slide a rag under it before I crack the line loose to catch it. The rest is a rock has mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 ....Penske ain't gonna be there when you transport the bike. And if we can transport new cars in enclosed carriers, you should have no problem. If it ain't leaking now, it ain't gonna leak in their truck. +1 Rules like that are for idiots. Weigh these comments accordingly. :icon_shifty: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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