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Air injection tube block ??


DaveK

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I just got aftermarket exhaust for the Triumph. The forum pros suggest taking the air injection hose which is connected to the air box and yank it out. Then take a 10mm marble or bearing and stuff it in the hose blocking it 100%. Then re-attach the hose. Next I need to start the bike....leave it running at idol for 25 minutes giving the ECU time to re-set and re-map.

They claim this does a number of things:

1. Eliminates the decel popping

2. MUCH cooler running temp

3. More MPG

4. The bike accels and decels MUCH smoother

I know nothing....

This sound right to you engine guys?

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I just got aftermarket exhaust for the Triumph. The forum pros suggest taking the air injection hose which is connected to the air box and yank it out. Then take a 10mm marble or bearing and stuff it in the hose blocking it 100%. Then re-attach the hose. Next I need to start the bike....leave it running at idol for 25 minutes giving the ECU time to re-set and re-map.

They claim this does a number of things:

1. Eliminates the decel popping

2. MUCH cooler running temp

3. More MPG

4. The bike accels and decels MUCH smoother

I know nothing....

This sound right to you engine guys?

I don't know about the accel and decal being smoother - but basically, you're making the triumph equivalent of a "block off" plate. I would suggest that you put some silicone on the marble so it makes a good/permanent seal. What the air injection is doing is basically leaning out the air/fuel mixture - blocking it off will fatten the mixture back up, reducing backfires etc.. Yes, the temps will be lower. I don't know about MPG - I'd be surprised if it made a big impact. Air Injection is primarily used to help motors beat emissions numbers.

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I agree with Wario. It sounds like they are having you block off the PAIR valve (Pulsed Air Induction Reed Valve) which as stated is more for emissions than anything else. The problem that I have heard of when blocking the hose instead of blocking it at the engine is that condensation can build up in the hose which will eventually get sucked back into the engine. It doesn't cause any real problems other than a little rough running but it's not exactly an "elegant" way to block off the PAIR system.

The closer you can block it to the engine the better. Perhaps you could find the right size vacuum cap and block it where the hose attaches?

Blocking it does help with decel pop but I think all the other claims are a bit of a stretch. I'm surprised they don't say it adds some extra horsepower too. :icon_snooty:

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....leave it running at idol for 25 minutes

Myself, I wouldn't like to leave my brand new unbroken in motor just sit and idle for almost a half hour.

Fuck no! I wouldn't leave anything idling for that long,you could starve the top end of oil.

Didn't one of the guys on here say he had a Triumph tuning buddy?

I'd ask the service guys at the dealer you got it from,they may have seen this done or seen the results.

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Went to the shop manual.....they call it "Adaption procedure."

Engine Management Adaption

The engine management system fitted to this model is adaptive. This means that the system is able to learn about new or changing operating conditions and continuously adapt itself without needing to constantly make major adjustments from a fixed baseline setting.

Adaptive changes become necessary because of changes in the region in which the bike is operated (i.e operation at high altitude where it was previously used at sea level) or because a new part may have been fitted which has slightly different characteristics to the old part. All adaptive changes are automatic and require no

intervention by rider or dealer.

Forcing Adaption to Take Place

If the read out indicates that the motorcycle is not adapted, the following will force the system to make adaptions:

1. Ensure the coolant is at ambient temperature

2. Start the engine and allow it to warm WITHOUT TOUCHING

THE THROTTLE until the cooling fan comes on.

3. Leave the engine to idle for a further 12 minutes WITHOUT TOUCHING THE THROTTLE.

To summarise adaptive (self adjusting) fueling; the base fuel map (or engine management tune) that is developed by Triumph around a ‘nominal’ bike (in terms of engine load, air leakage, fuel pressure etc) may need to be modified to suit a particular bike out in service.

Once the base fuel map has been modified (ie the bike has adapted) to suit the individual bikes requirements, this modification value (often refered to as a ‘fuel table multiplier’) will be stored in the ECM memory. The new settings are then retained in the ECM memory, ensuring that adaption is not necessary every time the engine is started.

The engine management system will continue to adapt air fuel ratio (i.e. the mixture setting) to its optimum level in order to ensure differing running conditions do not result in poor running.

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If you haven't found one yet they do make a block off kit for the SAI. I've done the adaptive idle thing on mine and it does help with some driveability issues. It usually takes about 12 minutes total although I'm not sure on the air cooled Triumphs. Even if you use Tune ECU it will help to do this.

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If you haven't found one yet they do make a block off kit for the SAI. I've done the adaptive idle thing on mine and it does help with some driveability issues. It usually takes about 12 minutes total although I'm not sure on the air cooled Triumphs. Even if you use Tune ECU it will help to do this.

Check out my newest thread....

Thanks man.

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  • 2 months later...
Perhaps you could find the right size vacuum cap and block it where the hose attaches
?

Yes sir. +1. Fuck that marble horseshit. Ive used these on my last 3 BB's and VFR's with zero issues.

Pick em up at your local auto parts store. Only thing is that they might be visible on the Rumph though.

Yeah quite a few VFR guys either do what you have or the marble trick, particularly on the VTECH's :icon_think:

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