txstrtxx Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Hello everybody I'm new to the site and in need of a little advice I'm redoing my 99bird would like to know whats best on adding race cams.Web offers a drop in cam and race cam same price.The drop in would give me about 7 to 10 horses,well what would the race cams do on a stock bottom end(all fresh) with out hi compression piston. hi compression pistons are 11.5 to1(stock 11 to1).I could bring up the compression by decking the head,but I want to run nitrous(mps spider kit #14 pill).Could I use the race cam to gain 15 to 20 horses on the wrist,are use the drop in and run with the 8 to 10 horses and soak it.Last opp., go all stock and super soak it.Whats the best app. Please help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 The best application is what fits your particular desire. Sit down and figure out all the variables and what you want. How convenient is it for you to fill a bottle, and is it something you want badly enough to try and find a place for it on the bird? With the lift and profile of the Web race cams you'll need to upgrade the valve train, especially the springs. Then of course you'll need new retainers, should get better valves, then the valve job........ Speed = money, how fast do you want to go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdman Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 ..........you'd make more power by going with a turbo.. Or a different bike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furbird Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 I can't help you with the cams and compression thing, but the nitrous I can. Most people with an EFI bike do the "fog the box" routine, which is a 40 shot or less. That's all fine and dandy, but it gives you no competitive advantage, as anybody can bolt that up. The stock engine can handle more than a 70 shot in direct port configuration. The problem is controlling it. You put a 70 shot on a button and it will wheelie on demand in third gear at highway speeds. Imagine trying to handle that from a holeshot. So now you're talking about progressive controllers, or a timed setup, or only spraying certain gears, and your costs start going up. Like others have said, you gotta pay to play. So, my suggestion is this. You need to decide what you want to do with the bike. If you're going to drag race it, then you need to prep the chassis for drag racing. If you're heads up shootout style, you have to extend the swingarm. If you just want to get it to go as fast as you can regardless of the class you're in, you need to put wheelie bars on it. Only then can you make the decision as to how far you want to go with your power modifications. In my case, I knew that first of all I can't afford to go shootout style, because now you HAVE to have a turbo to run heads up. Second, I wanted to be able to undo anything I did and be able to ride it on the street comfortably. I chose bars because I'm a bracket racer, and chose nitrous just to see what it would do. I probably have $1500-2000 worth of nitrous stuff that I have acquired through ebay just to get the nitrous consistent and controllable, and it does not make enough difference to justify the expenditure and the bottle refills in my opinion. So now it's back naturally aspirated. If you want to be able to ride to a cruise-in or back and forth to work, my suggestion would be to keep all of your modifications to just the engine and leave it naturally aspirated. If you want a trailer bike that is nasty fast, you need to prep it as such. It's up to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txstrtxx Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 I see, well i've put 6 inch extended bars on the swing arm and I got springs and retainer set also. I have had the bike for about two years.After the first six months i put the bars on to see if I like riding like that,so far so good.thinking of a more permanent set up (no more than 10 inch). As far as the way i ride,like I said steet/strip(mostly street) TURBO= mr turbo sells a unikit but I would have to have a plentium and manafold made. I ask around and if its not a busa and/or a ninja, they stray away or can't really help ya.I have to punk a dude because he f-up a head i gave him to port(very bad job) he got me two stock ones back in place of one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partsman Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Stay with the 6" extension,use suspension set-up to help control the wheelies,you'll have traction issues if you go 10".Bad enough on the strip setting up for that wheelbase,gun it on the street and your rr wheel will end up beside you. And hang in there for the turbo kit,there is going to be something available in the next few months,all going well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txstrtxx Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 One of the UK gear heads is putting together a basic turbo kit that could be ready as soon as the spring. It is being aimed at the DIY type of crowd.. 10 4,can i go with the drop in with the turbo or leave it stock and start preparing for turbo set up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Turbos are fun!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txstrtxx Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 One of the UK gear heads is putting together a basic turbo kit that could be ready as soon as the spring. It is being aimed at the DIY type of crowd.. 10 4,can i go with the drop in with the turbo or leave it stock and start preparing for turbo set up? A "turbo grind" would make more sense and help with the normally aspirated side of things if degreed properly. Then, once you have a turbo kit in hand, you could re-degree and set it up for the blown version. Furbird has the right idea, however, as it is like most things in life: have a goal, set your sights there and work your way backward. Trying to do racing stuff incrementally works very poorly (and is very costly) if you are trying to work your way forward instead. 10 4 and I have thought on what i want to do, and will give it more thought in weeks to come.As for now I'm taking all of the ad vise given=I'll add the drop in for now(web do not offer a turbo cam for the bird),search the site on turbo info and work from there.(in other word stock for right now) thanks a bunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txstrtxx Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 One of the UK gear heads is putting together a basic turbo kit that could be ready as soon as the spring. It is being aimed at the DIY type of crowd.. 10 4,can i go with the drop in with the turbo or leave it stock and start preparing for turbo set up? A "turbo grind" would make more sense and help with the normally aspirated side of things if degreed properly. Then, once you have a turbo kit in hand, you could re-degree and set it up for the blown version. Furbird has the right idea, however, as it is like most things in life: have a goal, set your sights there and work your way backward. Trying to do racing stuff incrementally works very poorly (and is very costly) if you are trying to work your way forward instead. 10 4 and I have thought on what i want to do, and will give it more thought in weeks to come.As for now I'm taking all of the ad vise given=I'll add the drop in for now(web do not offer a turbo cam for the bird),search the site on turbo info and work from there.(in other word stock for right now) thanks a bunch. Stan has my engine on his bench.. Those are turbo grind cams in there and could be useful information here. Pester him some, maybe he'll go measure some stuff. ;-) O K thanks!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 One of the UK gear heads is putting together a basic turbo kit that could be ready as soon as the spring. It is being aimed at the DIY type of crowd.. 10 4,can i go with the drop in with the turbo or leave it stock and start preparing for turbo set up? A "turbo grind" would make more sense and help with the normally aspirated side of things if degreed properly. Then, once you have a turbo kit in hand, you could re-degree and set it up for the blown version. Furbird has the right idea, however, as it is like most things in life: have a goal, set your sights there and work your way backward. Trying to do racing stuff incrementally works very poorly (and is very costly) if you are trying to work your way forward instead. 10 4 and I have thought on what i want to do, and will give it more thought in weeks to come.As for now I'm taking all of the ad vise given=I'll add the drop in for now(web do not offer a turbo cam for the bird),search the site on turbo info and work from there.(in other word stock for right now) thanks a bunch. Stan has my engine on his bench.. Those are turbo grind cams in there and could be useful information here. Pester him some, maybe he'll go measure some stuff. ;-) You want them on here? Thought those were top secret stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txstrtxx Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 One of the UK gear heads is putting together a basic turbo kit that could be ready as soon as the spring. It is being aimed at the DIY type of crowd.. 10 4,can i go with the drop in with the turbo or leave it stock and start preparing for turbo set up? A "turbo grind" would make more sense and help with the normally aspirated side of things if degreed properly. Then, once you have a turbo kit in hand, you could re-degree and set it up for the blown version. Furbird has the right idea, however, as it is like most things in life: have a goal, set your sights there and work your way backward. Trying to do racing stuff incrementally works very poorly (and is very costly) if you are trying to work your way forward instead. 10 4 and I have thought on what i want to do, and will give it more thought in weeks to come.As for now I'm taking all of the ad vise given=I'll add the drop in for now(web do not offer a turbo cam for the bird),search the site on turbo info and work from there.(in other word stock for right now) thanks a bunch. Stan has my engine on his bench.. Those are turbo grind cams in there and could be useful information here. Pester him some, maybe he'll go measure some stuff. ;-) You want them on here? Thought those were top secret stuff. OH PLEASE OH PLEASE!!!!!!!! :icon_pray: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partsman Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 I understand how much power to be expected witha na motor,but with a turbo w/ stock pistons is there any more to be gained at normal 8-10 lb boost levels? Or do cams really shine at 20lb boost levels on strengthened motors ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partsman Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCBIRD Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Hey Dean, Who is developing the DIY turbo kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 . The head on the XX is really something Honda should be ashamed of. On all levels of testing on a flow bench, Rick Ward found that it was only mildly better than the old ZX-11 heads. After some pretty serious headwork, it ended up flowing as well as a STOCK 'busa head. +1 The whole induction system is a bottle neck from the airbox to the intake valve. Cams will yield very little for what you're going to spend putting a set in (cams, springs, retainers, adjustable gears, etc). I wouldn't consider changing cams without re-working the head, but you're going to spend substantially more money for very little gain. If you want the biggest bang/buck, go with the best exhaust you can afford (Akrapovic or TiForce), and nitrous. Sounds like you're mostly drag racing anyway with the extended arm. For my riding, NA works best as there's no turbo lag, and I don't need nitrous. I just like a big motor that pulls hard when you want it to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCBIRD Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Thanks for the links Dean. I'll be following this closely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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