bpg Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 The FI light came on my Bird morning ('02, 70K miles). I felt a very slight loss in power/smoothness, & the light stayed steady all the way to work. Fired it up this afternoon, no light until about 10 minutes (came on while buzzing down the interstate, just like this morning). Then it came on, steady - again had a very slight loss in power/smoothness. When I got home - in neutral and stand down, the FI light began flashing: 2 long, 5 short, pause and repeat. Any ideas? Yes, the wiring harness is well grounded to the frame under the tank/seat... Thank you in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 Fault Code (Number of flashes) Symptoms Possible Cause 0 -no code (warning light constantly on) Engine does not start Blown fuse (main, engine stop, or fuel pump).Faulty power supply to ECM.Faulty engine stop relay.Faulty engine stop switch/open circuit to earth wire.Faulty ignition switch.Faulty bank angle sensor.Faulty ECM. 0 -no code (warning light constantly on) Engine runs normally Short circuit in warning light wiring.Short circuit in service check connecter wiring.Faulty ECM. 0 -no code (warning light off) Engine runs normally Blown warning light bulb.Open circuit in warning light wiring.Faulty ECM. 1 Engine runs normally Faulty MAP sensor or wiring. 2 Engine runs normally Faulty MAP sensor or vacuum hose. 7 Engine difficult to start at low temperatures Faulty coolant temperature sensor or wiring. 8 Poor throttle response Faulty throttle sensor or wiring. 9 Engine runs normally Faulty air intake temperature sensor or wiring. 10- (X, Y 1999 and 2000 models only) Engine runs poorly at high altitude Faulty atmospheric (barometric) sensor or wiring. 11 Engine operates normally Faulty speed sensor or wiring. 12 Engine does not start Faulty No. 1 injector or wiring. 13 Engine does not start Faulty No. 2 injector or wiring. 14 Engine does not start Faulty No. 3 injector or wiring. 15 Engine does not start Faulty No. 4 injector or wiring. 18 Engine does not start Faulty cam pulse generator or wiring. 19 Engine does not start Faulty ignition pulse generator or wiring. 20 Engine operates normally Faulty EPROM in ECM 25 Engine operates normally Faulty knock sensor or wiring The following codes are only applicable to models with catalytic converter : 21 Engine operates normally Faulty oxygen sensor. 23 Engine operates normally Faulty oxygen sensor heating element. Once all the codes have been revealed, switch off the ignition and (where necessary) remove the auxiliary wire from the service check connector, and identify the fault using the table above.For checking procedure please consult your Honda dealer or purchase the Haynes manual, as we were unable to publish the checking procedures. Can I then reset the PGM FI unit to erase ALL the previous malfunctions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpg Posted September 24, 2009 Author Share Posted September 24, 2009 OK, I downloaded a different manual than the one I had (which was for a '99 bike), looked a little deeper (page 5-13 in this particular manual)... Apparently 2 long blinks = 10 blinks each, or 20 total. Then you add the short blinks (of which I had 5) to get 25 "total blinks" in my case. This indicates a bad knock sensor connection, open/short circuit in knock sensor wiring, or a bad knock sensor. I'm sure most of ya knew how to diagnose the FI light flashes, but I couldn't find any such info in my older (cheapy ebay) manual, figured I'd throw it out there for anyone else that hits the same issue... Damn bike is smarter than I am! Will tear into it soon and post results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 edited.....re-read your post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpg Posted October 1, 2009 Author Share Posted October 1, 2009 Used electrical contact cleaner on the knock sensor connector, and also on the both of the big gray connectors under the left side of the bike. Still have code 25. :icon_think: Will check continuity to the ECM next (meter needed batteries) The Male & Female metal contacts in the big gray wiring harness connectors actually looked pretty bad - I'll get some needle files to clean them out really well, or just solder in some new connectors. Actually had a bit of serendipity there - turn signals had taken a vacation a while back, cleaning up the big gray connectors brought them (and the rear brake activating the the brake light) back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everydayrider99 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 I know this is an old thread, but did you ever fix this problem? I am experiencing the same FI light code. If you fixed it, what did you end up doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpg Posted August 26, 2012 Author Share Posted August 26, 2012 I know this is an old thread, but did you ever fix this problem? I am experiencing the same FI light code. If you fixed it, what did you end up doing? yes, actually - I think... I re-did all the electrical connections in the big grey harness I mentioned by snipping them all and soldering. After this, was still flashing and eventually died and would not start (crank but no boom boom). This was early winter 2009. Occasionally worked with it for a while, started riding my dual sport in a big way and kind of left the birdie by the wayside at my parents for some time. Would try to get it going once in a while, but no go, until about a year ago the battery would no longer take a charge. So late this summer I dropped a new battery in just to see if I could at least get it to maybe run, albeit poorly. I'll be damned if she didn't sputter to life in less than 20 seconds, FI light flashing very randomly, and then settle into a nice idle after 2 1/2 years of sitting (on gas that had turned to varnish, no less), with FI light going out after revving a few times. Yeah, you read that right - POS new walmart battery from '09 (and corroded harness, which I mentioned I had fixed in '09) was likely the cause of this and some other wonky electrical bs I had for some time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 ALWAYS start with the battery and the wire loom fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpg Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 ALWAYS start with the battery and the wire loom fix. indeed!!! The battery was fresh and seemed to have plenty of cranking power when this all began, but I suspect it was more the cause than any other issue. In fact, when I took it in to trade for the new one, the battery guy (NOT at wally world, at a local indie battery-only shop) said he'd NEVER seen a battery that dead before - basically it was a chunk of plastic with some fluid in it at that point. Oh well, was able to get a lot done and really embrace the dual-sport scene while I wasn't maintaining 2 bikes for a few years... Going on my first extended ride in 3 years to Helen GA tomorrow AM! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Hell yeah!! Rt 60 rocks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpg Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 Bike seems fine after all is said and done - so good to have her back! FWIW and to add a data point - I did get the FI light flickering, solid, etc for much of last week - even stalled on the way home from work a few times Very intermittent, sometimes the FI light was just on very bright, sometimes not at all, and every variation in between. disabled the clutch switch, kickstand switch, etc. and eventually traced it down to the good ol' kill switch wrangled it out of the controls and stripped it down (be very careful not to lose the tiny metal ball that rests on the end of a spring to provide the "click" detent action when using the switch) The contacts were very tarnished, a bit of sandpaper and some dielectric grease and all is good. Between sitting for several years and my never really using the kill switch, makes sense that it was starting to corrode. Just take care every once in a while to clean/sand your control contact points, and lots of dielectric grease & WD40 should keep things normal for many more years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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