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HOW TO: Double your underseat Storage


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5 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

Maybe get the fattest guy you can find, have him sit on it and do some measuring?  :)

I have to imagine Honda already did that, probably using a Sumo wrestler. 

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Haha ok but after the sumo test, how can I modify this undertray? Other than cut a hole and slap a flat piece of plastic and weld it shut all around. 

 

Something like this

 

Screenshot_2.thumb.jpg.56dec701296608422a2dd2296172a427.jpg

Edited by FTM
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How about a custom fab light gauge tray out of stainless? I would consider putting in drainage sweeps as a thought also.

 

 

I think I would try to preserve as much of the vertical wall of the under tail as possible.

 

This was about 5x what I expected for price for a used undertail.

 

 

 

Screenshot_20211106-073922_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20211106-073847_Chrome.jpg

Edited by XXitanium
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8 hours ago, fizzy said:

I have to imagine Honda already did that, probably using a Sumo wrestler. 

Dynamic loading- the rear spring will compress more when your fat guy lands after catching air at 160 MPH - MORE than it will just sitting still.

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31 minutes ago, XXitanium said:

This was about 5x what I expected for price for a used undertail.

 

 

I've managed to buy a really nice undertail, random on eBay, for $50, but really looking spotless as if the bike from where it was taken from was garaged and barely used. So now I feel bad about butchering that one, and would rather experiment with my current one haha.

 

But the thing is I wouldn't like to do it in metal, would like to keep it plastic. Perhaps I should visit someone who's good with that type of material, I'm not sure if bodyshops would be willing to waste their time on this, will have to check.

 

Anyhow no serious intervention would be needed in my case, just getting rid of that slope and make it "level"........or at least, last case scenario I was thinking - dremeling off the part where those original toolboxes and wheel locks are kept, maybe that would be sufficient. Can't go back once I start cutting so I need to plan it out before real good, I don't want to buy a third tray :D

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14 minutes ago, FTM said:

I'm not sure if bodyshops would be willing to waste their time on this, will have to check.

If they're getting paid it's not a waste of their time.  A car audio shop is probably a better option, most of them make custom stuff using plastic and fiberglass.  As for clearance, look up the suspension travel specs and measure the current clearance.

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2 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

Typical home 3D printed stuff is somewhat fragile and might have to be pretty thick to be trustable for this depending on what stuff will be carried.

 

???  The most basic material, PLA, can be made very strong with the right infill (honeycomb) and fill level.  One problem it does have is that it can pull apart though with high loading.  An easy solution is to brush the inside/outside with a strong and flexible adhesive like Go2.

 

You can print with other materials like nylon carbon fiber, which are crazy strong.  The cost is a special nozzle ($20) and the material ($60/kg).

 

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8 hours ago, SwampNut said:

You can print with other materials like nylon carbon fiber, which are crazy strong.  The cost is a special nozzle ($20) and the material ($60/kg).

 

 

https://pages.makerbot.com/ABSWhitepaper.html?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Search_US_PRO_Purchase&utm_term=abs 3d printing&utm_content=sitelink-real-abs-guide&gclid=CjwKCAjwz5iMBhAEEiwAMEAwGEfUj74wqz2P7p0gV5YngUeyOJ717b7QUdO_n2xVGcl1tHwUTtD1jxoCVEMQAvD_BwE

 

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