SLyFoXX Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 In the process of replacing the brake pads on my car, but I am having troubles on one of the pistons pushing it in.... Any tricks to compress the damn thing. I have a brake pad spreader, but I am still not able to press it in. I have done one but am having trouble with the next one.. any tricks of the trade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 Did you take the cap off the master cylinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLyFoXX Posted March 20, 2008 Author Share Posted March 20, 2008 Did you take the cap off the master cylinder? no, I will try that be back in a sec that did not make a difference... it is the rear pads if that makes a difference. do I need to unhook the cable for the emergency brake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 Sorry, I've exhausted my rather shallow pool of knowledge- and even that was based on working on bikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TitaniumBird Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 It's usually a good idea to extend the piston as far as you can and steel wool off any shit that's collected. That really helps the life of your calipers. After that, reach for the biggest C clamp you have and a couple hunks of wood, so you don't mar the edges of the piston or the outside of your caliper (unless you don't care. Then just wind it in till you have nuff to get your new pads on and you're golden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLyFoXX Posted March 20, 2008 Author Share Posted March 20, 2008 It's usually a good idea to extend the piston as far as you can and steel wool off any shit that's collected. That really helps the life of your calipers. After that, reach for the biggest C clamp you have and a couple hunks of wood, so you don't mar the edges of the piston or the outside of your caliper (unless you don't care. Then just wind it in till you have nuff to get your new pads on and you're golden. I have a brake pad spreader that I think is the same as using the C clamps........ damn piston is just not moving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLyFoXX Posted March 20, 2008 Author Share Posted March 20, 2008 Got it! Trick is the piston has to turn clockwise as it is being pressed. fuck oh well it done now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB4XX Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 GM Car? Autozone has a tool they loan to crank those back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLyFoXX Posted March 21, 2008 Author Share Posted March 21, 2008 GM Car? Autozone has a tool they loan to crank those back in. Acura Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast Eddy Posted March 21, 2008 Share Posted March 21, 2008 GM Car? Autozone has a tool they loan to crank those back in. Acura Honda junk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wockman Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 I did the same thing on my first Acura Integra. I had never seen that kind either before. I must have cranked down on the C clamp for a half hour. Then after I noticed the pistons had a cross hashes on them, so I tried turning it with a big screwdriver and what do you know. In hindsight it seemes like it should have been obvious. But now I feel better than it isn't just me. What kind of car is it? I have a Haynes manual for 3rd generation Integra if you want it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 The screw in piston has something to do with the emergency brake. I found that out many years ago on a Subaru and they were that way on the front but it did have the emergency brake on the front wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TitaniumBird Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 That's damned good to know, sneaky bastards. I'm sure I would have put a pipe on my C-clamp and broke it or the caliper or "something". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 Sorry I got to this late. Every brand of car I've done rear disc brakes on you have to turn the piston in. It IS how the E-brake works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 It would be interesting to see how the E-brake works with the hydraulic calipers. I had an 03 Dodge Dakota with rear discs and they just built a small drum brake inside of each disc to act as the E-brake. Glad to know there is a lighter and no doubt less expensive way to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TitaniumBird Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 I know the read e-brake on my toyota has another little set of drum brakes inside the hub of the rotor (rear disk brakes) if that makes sense. technically, three sets of brakes, likely never need to replace the shoes for the e-brake unless you drag it or USE it in a real emergency. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanix Posted March 29, 2008 Share Posted March 29, 2008 +1 on the screw in piston. I don't understand it either, but apparently on some vehicles, (my 2003 mustang, for instance) you can't press the piston in. I bought one of them square brake tool thingies you turn with your 3/8 wrench, then ground off two of the four studs on that to match the dimple pattern on the cylinder. Crank crank crank until it goes in. I hated it too, but I would have hated it more if I had pressed on that thing till something broke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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