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New Battery


fredx

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After reading a few threads on batteries I opted for the bigger CCA battery, the Yuasa YTZ14S, over the OEM battery the YTZ12S. I was concerned they might be slightly different size. After a closer look:

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They are identical size. So for any of you buying a new battery, I would recommend the YTZ14S. More CCA, same size.

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Since the Birds don't really take much to start in my experience, what will the additional cold cranking amps capacity buy you? Will it require the charging system to consistently put out more to keep it topped off? Is the 14 heavier than the 12?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am runnign a new deka after using Yuasa for years & years...these have worked great in vseveral other bikes and the bird is pretty easy to crank....

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Since the Birds don't really take much to start in my experience, what will the additional cold cranking amps capacity buy you? Will it require the charging system to consistently put out more to keep it topped off? Is the 14 heavier than the 12?

****This is absolutely correct****

I advise everyone to take a good look at the numbers because it may significantly increase the draw from your charging system and shorten the life of the stator and R/R instead of the other way around.

marty

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I`ve run them both since 14 is OEM on yzf1000r,it is basically just slightly taller.

Honestly,bike is not a car,I tend not to ride in -20 F,there is no point in having extra cranking amps,plus it is havier and more expensive.

On the other side if you run lots of electric/electronic gizzmos,junk,etc bigger battery might help, I would guess.

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Fred,

Where did you get the ytz14s?

A search is fun, many advertise the yuasa battery, but actually sell a replacement.

Your local dealer can get them. That battery is also used by Triumph, Suzuki, etc. The 14 is a common battery and can be found in ATV's as well.

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  • 5 weeks later...

last week here in Phoenix there was a motorcycle run for a helicopter crash, so me and the wife went to it and about half way through the ride my gauges stoped working and right then and there i knew i was not going to make the rest of the ride. i pulled off and poured water on my RR to cool it down got a jump start. guages started to work again only for couple of miles, i was able to limp it home. in the beggining of the summer i had the same problem with the charging system so i replaced my battery, stator and RR. i got the RR from Ebay and put it on, voltage read 14vdc. the next day i rode it to work and by the time i got home the RR was cooking hot and not charging, needless to say i was stuck with the RR. after it cooled down it started charging again. my XX is a 97 with 26k miles, i would like to know what year yamaha R1 regulators you guys are using and where to get one.

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last week here in Phoenix there was a motorcycle run for a helicopter crash, so me and the wife went to it and about half way through the ride my gauges stopped working and right then and there i knew i was not going to make the rest of the ride. i pulled off and poured water on my RR to cool it down got a jump start. gauges started to work again only for couple of miles, i was able to limp it home. in the beginning of the summer i had the same problem with the charging system so i replaced my battery, stator and RR. i got the RR from Ebay and put it on, voltage read 14vdc. the next day i rode it to work and by the time i got home the RR was cooking hot and not charging, needless to say i was stuck with the RR. after it cooled down it started charging again. my XX is a 97 with 26k miles, i would like to know what year Yamaha R1 regulators you guys are using and where to get one.

R/R died. Need a new one, but a little short on cash. Could use some help.

What year XX?

R1 install link

You could order a reg/rec for a 99 Yamaha R1 from University motors for around $50. There are numerous posts here on the subject along with the wiring diagrams.

OK, so here's the way it's going down...

Just called Mike (Gary isn't in parts any more) at University Motors, and got (2) '99 R1 regs coming to me (always wanted a spare for shits, and they were like $48 each (Hell, Ron Ayres wants $64 for one), and a single Honda replacement is like $160), because this is the original (non-finned one) from '97, with 40k miles on it, so it's bound to go at some point... If that doesn't fix it, it's a stator, and I'll hit up a '99 stator to get the higher output from the later years.

One question though... I've heard tell of a connector pigtail being available for the R1 units... Is there any truth in this, or what? Mike said he doesn't know of one, and if there is one, it's probably being sold after-market...

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Mike

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