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System One


kiwimack

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any one used or heard of this product, "system one advanced polishing system"?

http://www.systemoneaps.com/

I am probably goona try it be interested if anyone else has experience of / with it.

Mac i have not heard of the stuff you speak of but i have a product at good that i used on my bike to buff out the paint and it worked great. i check when i get home & let u kno

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any one used or heard of this product, "system one advanced polishing system"?

http://www.systemoneaps.com/

I am probably goona try it be interested if anyone else has experience of / with it.

Mac i have not heard of the stuff you speak of but i have a product at good that i used on my bike to buff out the paint and it worked great. i check when i get home & let u kno

O k Stefan,

thnx

maybe you should try this?

http://secure.hop.com/product2.cfm?Categor...p;Product_ID=28

NBL brother

:icon_biggrin:

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I would be very cautious about using a product that 'polishes' using even very fine cutting compounds on a regular basis. The clear coat is very thin and each polishing with an abrasive product takes away some of that topcoat.

True----a polish is needed to remove swirls or 'cobwebs' in the paint surface---but once that is done use a good glaze and a final wax coat/ coats. If you prefer the new sealants, typically longer lasting and 'brighter' shine than a carnuba was---Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection is a very good one. I will usually topcoat it with my favorite Carnuba wax---Blitz (from One Grand Products)

Good luck----happy trails kel

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I would be very cautious about using a product that 'polishes' using even very fine cutting compounds on a regular basis. The clear coat is very thin and each polishing with an abrasive product takes away some of that topcoat.

True----a polish is needed to remove swirls or 'cobwebs' in the paint surface---but once that is done use a good glaze and a final wax coat/ coats. If you prefer the new sealants, typically longer lasting and 'brighter' shine than a carnuba was---Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection is a very good one. I will usually topcoat it with my favorite Carnuba wax---Blitz (from One Grand Products)

Good luck----happy trails kel

Good advice there !

Do Not use a "polish" on the Bird unless there is a scratch, swirl or scuff that you want to hide. Most all good wax, sealants or Polymers are great at cleaning, shining and protecting with out abrassives. Polymers are the most durable today. Carnuba gives the best depth of shine but is easily broken down by UV exposure. Show cars are always waxed with Carnuba the day before a show for maximum brilliance and depth of shine. Carnuba was marketed well but is a poor product to use on a daily driver.

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I would be very cautious about using a product that 'polishes' using even very fine cutting compounds on a regular basis. The clear coat is very thin and each polishing with an abrasive product takes away some of that topcoat.

True----a polish is needed to remove swirls or 'cobwebs' in the paint surface---but once that is done use a good glaze and a final wax coat/ coats. If you prefer the new sealants, typically longer lasting and 'brighter' shine than a carnuba was---Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection is a very good one. I will usually topcoat it with my favorite Carnuba wax---Blitz (from One Grand Products)

Good luck----happy trails kel

thanks

mack

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If you have access to it, try to get a clay based detailing product like Clay Magic.

http://www.clay-magic.com/

Meguires makes another good product, too.

http://www.meguiars.com/estore/product_lis...lay§ionID=11201

It does a great job detailing the paint nibs and removes mucjh of the leftover spooge that is left on the panel without ruining the clearcoat (be gentle around the edge of your decals with any product).

The paint will feel like a wet sheet of glass when you are finished. Then you can go and wax it to your hearts content! :icon_thumbsup:

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Good advice on the clay

One more tidbit of clay info !!

All Clay, including that which Mequiar's sells, comes from One place.

Clay Magic has the patent rights on "Clay" period. There have been three large manufacturing buisinesses

that have been sued and are now out of business making clay. ALL clay ultimately comes from Clay Magic

as of about 6 months ago.

I am the Technical Director for the largest supplier of parts, supplies and equipment for the Car Wash Industry in North America. We also carry and sell Clay Magic brand Clay, private labeled for us under the name of Factory Finish.

All of owr own Detail products are packaged under the name of Factory Finish. We sell only to the Car Wash and

Professional Detail Industry. We are strictly a wholesale distributor and Manufacture. We do not do any retail.

Hence, where my "Awesome Gloss" and Micro-Fiber comes from !!

Sounds crazy but yes do what Toynut said and clay the finish and then wax it, done

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Hey mac the stuff i have is (nicsand) It has been around my shop for a few years so i dont know if it is still around. It is an aluminum oxide compound.

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I have had my wife's SUV and my PU "clayed", it is unbelievable stuff. Makes the vehicle look like new. I also had a body shop that I used down in Orlando, get a bunch of scuffs from brush out on my PU using something they called the "Finesse" system.

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For car finishes, the best thing you can do for a car with 50k+ miles on it, is some abrasive on a good buffing wheel. The finish on my '03 eclipse went from good to amazing. He knows whats up. Thats not something you do more then a few times in the entire life of the car.

What i did when i got my bird is this...

Meguires body scrub - light abrasive

Meguires glaze

A super high quality wax - its blue,,can't remember the name off the top of my head.

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A super high quality wax - its blue,,can't remember the name off the top of my head

I think you are refering to Meguiar's Tech Wax, which is available in a liquid or a soft paste wax.

I use it and produces an absolutely fantastic "wet look" finish on clearcoat finishes. It is amazing stuff on dark colored vehicles like my '05 FJR (Galaxy Blue) or a black XX.

http://www.meguiars.com/?paste-car-waxes/N...-Tech-Wax-Paste

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For car finishes, the best thing you can do for a car with 50k+ miles on it, is some abrasive on a good buffing wheel. The finish on my '03 eclipse went from good to amazing. He knows whats up. Thats not something you do more then a few times in the entire life of the car.

I deal with over 20,000 customers in the Car Washing and Detailing Industry. You above statement in inaccurate at best and downright false at least.

Anyone that knows anything about paint finishes would tell you that you do Not use abrasives of any kind with a Buffing wheel. Abrasives are used with High Speed or Rotary Polishers and Waxes, Sealants or Glazes are used with Buffers or Orbital's.

Abrasives are only to be used to hide specific flaws, scratches or swirl marks. If Oxidation or dulling of a finish is visable then abrasives are not neccessary and will ultimately dramatically reduce the durability of the finish over the long haul.

As Toynut said clear coats are not very thick and thinning them out by use of abrasives is not productive and eventually will require a re-paint.

The key is not milage but rather the quarterly waxing and protection you give the finish to maintain the factory finish.

Keep the vehicle clean and protected and abrasives will never be neccessary.

My 2001 Red Bird has never been washed with water. In fact has only gotten wet by riding in the rain. I clean it when needed using nothing but Honda Spray or my own Awesome Gloss with Micro-Fiber. It still looks like the day it bought with 6 miles on the clock. It now has 42,000 miles. I would never think of using an abrasive on it any more than I would use wet sand paper on it.

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Stop by booth #2228 at the World Car Care Expo in Las Vegas on March 26th - 28th and join the other 15,000 attendees and you will get a chance to speak with some of the most knowledgeable people in the Industry. Anyone who is anything in the Car Wash, Refinishing and Detailing Industry will be there presenting their wares.

I will be leading a seminar on Detailing Products and promoting our new 670 page Catalog.

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For car finishes, the best thing you can do for a car with 50k+ miles on it, is some abrasive on a good buffing wheel. The finish on my '03 eclipse went from good to amazing. He knows whats up. Thats not something you do more then a few times in the entire life of the car.

I deal with over 20,000 customers in the Car Washing and Detailing Industry. You above statement in inaccurate at best and downright false at least.

Anyone that knows anything about paint finishes would tell you that you do Not use abrasives of any kind with a Buffing wheel. Abrasives are used with High Speed or Rotary Polishers and Waxes, Sealants or Glazes are used with Buffers or Orbital's.

Abrasives are only to be used to hide specific flaws, scratches or swirl marks. If Oxidation or dulling of a finish is visable then abrasives are not neccessary and will ultimately dramatically reduce the durability of the finish over the long haul.

As Toynut said clear coats are not very thick and thinning them out by use of abrasives is not productive and eventually will require a re-paint.

The key is not milage but rather the quarterly waxing and protection you give the finish to maintain the factory finish.

Keep the vehicle clean and protected and abrasives will never be neccessary.

My 2001 Red Bird has never been washed with water. In fact has only gotten wet by riding in the rain. I clean it when needed using nothing but Honda Spray or my own Awesome Gloss with Micro-Fiber. It still looks like the day it bought with 6 miles on the clock. It now has 42,000 miles. I would never think of using an abrasive on it any more than I would use wet sand paper on it.

I mis spoke,,, i think it was an orbital he used on the car. It really does look great.

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One word "Meguiar's "

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