Jump to content
CBR1100XX.org Forum
porterb123

Wire Loom Fix

Recommended Posts

I had simular problems with a bad fuel filter. 100’s of miles with no problems. Then surging, or cutting off.  No errors.

After all else fails electrically,  I took a SWAG, and changed the filter.

It got worse.ūüėĖ

 

I lifted the tank again and saw that I had twisted the fuel line banjo bolt when I put the tank back.   The twisted fuel line was stopping almost all fuel flow.

I corrected my dumb assery,  and all has been good for the last 5k+ miles using a new filter.

01, with 55k miles on the clock when I started having problems.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Red,

 

Thanks for the insight...the Filter has been mentioned before...but these symptoms sure are intermittent??

 

I didn't locate/ID the fuel filter when I went thru all the testing...where exactly is it, what's it look like & how much & where did you get it, if you remember all dat.

It's been two (day) rides since I "went thru all the motions" w/o actually finding anything obvious/visible, so I'll jst keep "test driving" it until the problem happens again...or so much time goes by that I forget it ever happened...until it happens again. (sic)

 

Thanks again.

I'll keep the thread updated....

 

 

~Bear

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The filter is inside the tank along with the pump. The tank has to come off to access either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine was very intermittent. ¬†And sometimes, just cycling the ignition seemed to fix it.ūü§Ē

 

The filter was my last resort, and did the trick.  There were two types used. One that had straight exits, and a curved hose on it. (Flaps) has a close replacement for $10.00.  Or one with the metal curve. $50.00 on line.  Of course I needed the expensive one.

I have been researching fuel pump replacement for a friends beemer.

not all fuel line is the same. All carry fuel, but some melt when submerged.  

Get the good stuff, if you try to adapt the cheaper filter.

I would lift the rear of the tank and look at the fuel line routing. 

Someone may have been there before you.

Also take pictures of the other tubing attached to the tank. One is a vent, the other is a overflow.  They are both black.

7815B289-B163-4A0F-BD5D-EFEADCCC12B5.jpeg

  • Upvote 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FWIW, here's a link to when I did the wire loom fix on my '99 XX.  For what benefit it helps, here you go.

 

I don't know if the fix was "needed" but I had a weird gremlin happen on a cross-country trip, and doing this was one way to address one of the possible causes.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Aunt Zero,

 

Thank you so much for the pictures...this is why I actually joined the forum, b/c the pictures from the Wire-Loom fix were not showing/posted, so I thought joining would allow me to see them.

I now can see how different my connector looks on my 2003...the first pics (of the R/R?) really confused me as I didn't see those connectors on my Bird!! 

BTW - the symptoms of the R/R look a lot like the Stator Connector issue with the Aprilia, with the same type of fix PLUS one more....running a thicker wire from the Stator to the Battery (in parallel) to the skinny wire the Factory installed. 

 

Thanks again.

 

~Bear

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Red,

 

Thanks for the follow-up, appreciate the insights & the picture is worth a thousand words, just pure gold bro, thanks. Really.

Now if you'll excuse me I have to climb up onto the roof....and scream at the heavens!!

WTF put a "serviceable" item into the gas tank?! These should be changed every what 5K-10K miles...is that where the "spare" key is kept?!

Rubber hoses inside the gas tank?! WTF knows what (caustic) gas formula will be (Gov't) mandated next, around the world?!

Putting the Fuel Pump into the tank was bad enough...going from Bad to Worse! 

The answer BTW - A book-smart Engineer who does not swing his own wrench!! (sic)

But I digress...

 

Let me put this "shrimp-on-da-Barbie" for the crew chiming in on my issue....

What about a loose/dirty kickstand (KS) safety switch connection?

What would the symptoms be??

I've read about other bikes' "hacks" with problems relating to the KS safety switch, a real bummer to try & fix on da road (side)...

This just question occurred to me when I accidently hit the "shifter", as I was (trying) putting down the KS...just wondering what the old-timers thought about it.

 

BTW - The "Fi" problem has not re-surfaced again yet, since the weekend clean-up efforts (removed LED & Battery Tender wiring from Battery & sprayed E cleaner on ECM contacts).

 

Keep it in da wind.

 

~Bear

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see no issues with the filter in the tank.  Unless you get really bad gas, you change it every 50K as a preventative measure.  Be more upset that there’s no cutoff for the fuel so you can easily detach the fuel lines and dismount the tank.  A requirement to clean/replace the air filter or change plugs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, Aunt Zero said:

I see no issues with the filter in the tank.  Unless you get really bad gas, you change it every 50K as a preventative measure.  Be more upset that there’s no cutoff for the fuel so you can easily detach the fuel lines and dismount the tank.  A requirement to clean/replace the air filter or change plugs.

sometimes I agree with Mike.

32k for plugs, 50 k or more for a fuel filter, isn’t so bad.  Using good fuel, and riding often is best for your bike and your sanity.

You should see what you have to do to change a pump Bills k1200rs.   

 

I’m sure that you know it, but pull your battery before pulling your tank.  One slip and you scratch you tank.  Or use all of your fire extinguishers.

saftey first

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Aunt Zero said:

I see no issues with the filter in the tank.  Unless you get really bad gas, you change it every 50K as a preventative measure.  Be more upset that there’s no cutoff for the fuel so you can easily detach the fuel lines and dismount the tank.  A requirement to clean/replace the air filter or change plugs.

 

No need to detach fuel lines. Tank can be "stood up" with the tail end in the  pocket behind the air filter, and the front standing straight up with all fuel lines still attached. Run gas down to less than 1 gallon, place fluffy towels behind air filter and stand tank up on them. I ran a rope from front of tank over the rafters for safety. If memory serves I disconnected some electrical wires, that's it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well we can agree-to-disagree about da filter in da Tank sense...sounds like a maintenance deterrent to me....worked fine on da outside all these years. 

Don't like da rubber in da tank either, by hey whatever, as long as it works. (sic)

 

Now about da petcock/fuel lever...why, why, why?!!

I hate vacuum-operated petcocks...they sound good & elegant on paper but when they get old they tend to leak and they don't have a (manual) "off" position, so you have to get creative (rope to rafter) or drain the tank. You also have to get creative if you need to run the bike w/o the Tank in place...but I'm used to working on Carb'd bikes.

Why don't fuel-injected bikes have "Reserves"?

Never had a problem with a manual petcock and whenever I get a bike with a vacuum petcock I try to convert it if possible. 

Couldn't convert the Katana...they molded the Plastic (fairing) around it, I can't even turn it when I'm riding it's so awkward.

 

Red - Little confused about the "Battery removal" advise...do you mean disconnect or actually remove and how can it scratch the tank? What's a pump bills (k1200)?

 

Thanks for all the other tips too, always appreciate learnin' new stuff & rememberin' stuff I forget!

 

Birds' still runnin' fine too.

Keep it breezy.

 

~Bear

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lets back up a bit. Fuel system with fuel injection is closed and pressurized. The engine only runs when fuel pump is on. There is no on/off petcock with reserve, only a fuel gauge with reserve light.

 

 The rope over the rafters (tied to the front of the tank) is merely to stabilize it, not to drain it. It doesn't have to be fully drained, only lightened for convenience.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Roger dat...now answer the question...Why no reserve? Why no petcock?

Gauges are notoriously wrong/inconsistent, especially the digital ones...03' Birds don't have a (Reserve?) light, the last digit just starts to flash...how far we got Fiz?

Katana has a (analog) gauge & Reserve. The RF has no gauge, but a Reserve and a (low fuel) Light whose "brightness" is suppose to change. Awesome, let me focus on dat!

Petcock (manual) w/"off" allows for easy tank removal, no matter how much ya got in da tank...also how ya gonna stop a leak at the injector or any point past the tank fuel exit? 

No need fuel pump or running bike for leak...

The pumps' just in da Tank to keep it cool (noise?) & on a bike, to save space...

 

I understood the purpose of the rafter hook-up (stability), I was referring to Option B...actually draining the Tank (instead).

I haven't had to get into this bike that far, so far, but other bikes with similar set-ups have differing/limited access with the Tank tilted up, sometimes just enough to get to one of the plugs...with their "special" tool! Why/how do folks lose their bike's toolkits?!

 

Good times...

 

~Bear

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 2000, which has fuel injection and analog gauges with low fuel light, comes on with 1 gal left. Don't know about the 03's.

 

My understanding is that the fuel pressure on injected engines is too much for exposed petcocks or inline filters. 

 

In any case, good to see you have kicked the gremlins to the curb.  Lets hope they stay there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, fizzy said:

No need to detach fuel lines. Tank can be "stood up" with the tail end in the  pocket behind the air filter, and the front standing straight up with all fuel lines still attached. Run gas down to less than 1 gallon, place fluffy towels behind air filter and stand tank up on them. I ran a rope from front of tank over the rafters for safety. If memory serves I disconnected some electrical wires, that's it.

 

I see no reason to fiddle with that kind of nonsense.  The Honda manual, for anything under the tank, tells you to drain tank, detatch lines, and remove tank.  That’s a pain for maintenance and a nightmare if it’s being done in the field.  So, I cut the lines and installed quick disconnects.  Did a DIY thread on it.  Sorry about the missing photos.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Bear said:

I hate vacuum-operated petcocks...they sound good & elegant on paper but when they get old they tend to leak and they don't have a (manual) "off" position

My 97 does. ūüėČ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×