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Wire Loom Fix


porterb123

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On 8/29/2019 at 7:49 PM, blackhawkxx said:

Do the early Birds (97-98) have a test plug?

No, it's an EFI thing.

Edited by superhawk996
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We know that carbBirds are the best, accept the others' ignorances.

 

There are lots of ups and downs both ways regardless of vehicle type, same goes for electronic vs. mechanical ignition.  EFI & electronic ignition are generally perfect until a problem arrises then you might be stuck, mechanical stuff can degrade over time needing some maintenance but rarely fail without notice.  If I'm venturing out into the boonies I prefer a carb and points, but the modern stuff works better when it's working.

 

I put electronic ignition into my sandrail because I wound up with a new one for free and it *should* be better than points, worst case scen......   On my first run, and only time I ever left camp alone, it died a very long walk away from camp.  Luckily I had tools and a set of points with me.  A buddy offered me an electronic ignition for my previous boat; fuck no, I go across the ocean alone.

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Honestly, after having a FI bike, I’d never go back unless I lived someplace with bad gas and impossible to get parts.

 

The FI setup was better and consistent.  I knew of the wire loom issue, but I knew there was a fix thanks to forums like this one.

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What Super said, the new stuff is better when working but the old stuff is better when things isn't right.  It isn't just vehicles either, furnace, washer/dryer, freezer, etc.  The old stuff just worked and if it didn't, it was easy to fix.  My gas dryer has to be over 20 years old and I have put a couple of belts on, it just keeps running.  My mother had a deep freezer that she got in 1953.  It was still working perfect when she passed in 2015.  

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When I went from a '97 to an '01 I thought it was pretty cool to not have to mess with the choke, but not a big deal.  When I went back to a '97 I briefly though 'this is some bullshit', but I got over it.  There was also a WTF moment every time I turned the key and the fuel pump didn't prime.  An automatic choke would be pretty cool and I'm surprised bikes never had them.  Scooters all did and it seemed to work great.

 

Modifying is another area where the old stuff can be better or worse.  If you have the technology, modern stuff can be super easy to modify, but if you can't talk to and modify the brains of the system you're possibly fucked.  Technology still amazes me, and scares me a little.  With my 7.3 powerstroke I love that I can touch a button on the dash and the engine is transformed from a mild cruiser to a tire shredding dragster, but my old 7.3 has never suddenly decided it didn't like the chip in the key and refuse to start 370 miles away from home like the PS did to me.

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3 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:

What Super said, the new stuff is better when working but the old stuff is better when things isn't right.  It isn't just vehicles either, furnace, washer/dryer, freezer, etc.  The old stuff just worked and if it didn't, it was easy to fix.

I've had many experiences with that stuff, particularly in RVs.  With my old one I had to manually light the heater, oven, refrigerator, and water heater at the beginning of a trip, and remember to shut them all off at the end, but I was never stuck in the desert with non-working shit like everyone else's modern electronic stuff did to them.  But theirs were more efficient and (if working) took no thought or effort to operate, just hit the power button.  I can't count how many times people had to come cook, shower, and hang out in my tiny old box because their rolling mansions weren't working.  The leveling jacks is a big one, mine took a fair bit of time and energy to deploy, 4 screw jacks and wood blocks.  I was never stuck with unhappy electronics or leaking hydraulics.

 

My previous washing machine lacked a spin rinse cycle, a stupid omission.  A few minutes with a file on the timer wheel and voila.  If I could re-program the many retardations out of my newer Electrolux I'd jump on it.  I've had to pull the plug to reboot it a few times because it just locked up and it's not even one of the extremely modern types, scary thought.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 9/29/2006 at 10:49 AM, porterb123 said:

Rode to work today and for the first time I noticed my fuel injection light flickering. Got home and pulled the rear cowl off, including my wingrack and got down to the test block on the left side near the rear passenger footpeg bracket to frame connection. Here's that pic...note the corrosion

IPB Image

Next pic is of the cap with prongs that I hooked a battery and test light up to to see which wires were connected

IPB Image

Next pic is of the block from what I am calling the front...non latch side, for wire color and grouping

IPB Image

This is the rear side shown for wire grouping

IPB Image

Next pic shows the front side group 1 of wires, 2 heavey gauge white with green stripe and smaller white with grey bar, to be tied together

IPB Image

Next is the front side group 2 wires 2 light gauge yellow with red stripe tied together

IPB Image

Next is group 3 front side of 2 smaller gauge green with grey bars and 1 larger gauge green tied together for a total of 8 wires on the front side

IPB Image

Last pic is of the rear side of the block...all 10 wires tied together

IPB Image

I solders these groupings together and taped up individually, the all into one and pointed it upwards and zip tied to the frame.

Yes it works and no more flickering light.

On the UK site, there was 1 more wires on the front side than mine. Those post are hot on my cap but there are no connecting wires to them. Must be for Euro accessories.

Took about 2 hrs for me including drawing a wire diagram and testing connections

how can i get the pic to show 

 

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looks like mine   but no brake in wires on the plug ,,  only the green wires as well  ,, 

so i joined all wires appears to work ...      still have code going on F1 light flashes for code 25  .. knock sensor .. have replaced knock sensor    same prob .. .. i also have a spare motor  03 .. mine is 02 ,,  

 

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  • 3 months later...
On 6/23/2015 at 8:43 PM, XXitanium said:

This only affects a couple model years, but it is well written and detailed.

I'm afraid I may have to do this. I'll try to take pictures.

May I nominate it for "Important Useful Threads" please? ...or at least stickied?

Thanks,

Bill

 

Bump.

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  • 7 months later...
  • 6 months later...
On 8/1/2015 at 11:24 PM, XXitanium said:

The offending xxombie connector - extricated and Exorcised from the 2000.

...it goes to nowhere.

post-1680-0-69314100-1438489455_thumb.jp

 

post-1680-0-36647300-1438489490_thumb.jp

I think these were part of the thread that went missing. I was looking through my old Google pics and ran across them.

Lump-cut.JPG

 

Lump.JPG

Edited by XXitanium
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  • 2 months later...

I have a no prime fuel pump issue on my 2001. I did the wire loom fix a few years ago, but wonder if anybody has had to re-do these joined plug connections from age/corrosion? Has the loom fix popped up again later on anyone's bird?

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The loom might have a problem, or many other possibilities from as simple as the handlebar kill switch being off to .... ?

 

I think I'd start with checking the fuel pump fuse and relay, after checking that the kill switch is on.  Actually, I'd flip the switch on-off a few times with the key on just in case the contacts are just a bit shitty.

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Looking for opinions and experience concerning the wiring loom fix problem coming back later, causing a no prime/no start issue.

 

Fuel pump powered/jumped- it works. Have multi meter tested: kill switch, 3 relays, side stand switch, all fuses, tip over switch swapped with another one. New battery.

 

No power at fuel pump loom connector.

 

Has anyone had the wiring loom fix problem happen again a few years after repair?

Edited by sandman
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1 hour ago, sandman said:

Looking for opinions and experience concerning the wiring loom fix problem coming back later, causing a no prime/no start issue.

 

Fuel pump powered/jumped- it works. Have multi meter tested: kill switch, 3 relays, side stand switch, all fuses. New battery.

 

No power at fuel pump loom connector.

 

Has anyone had the wiring loom fix problem happen again a few years after repair?

Did you check the "tip-over" switch?

 

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Haven't heard that exact thing, no. But it is certainly possible. 

 

One thing I have heard more than once is that the ECU for some reason (basically, it failed) no longer gives the signal to the fuel pump relay. Anyway, check the 2 big connectors to the ECU, pins all clean and correct? No broken wires, ECU strapped down? 

 

 Note: in a pinch, the pump can be wired to come on with ignition, bypassing the ECU. Remember you would be bypassing all the safety features too. 

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