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porterb123

Wire Loom Fix

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Rode to work today and for the first time I noticed my fuel injection light flickering. Got home and pulled the rear cowl off, including my wingrack and got down to the test block on the left side near the rear passenger footpeg bracket to frame connection. Here's that pic...note the corrosion

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Next pic is of the cap with prongs that I hooked a battery and test light up to to see which wires were connected

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Next pic is of the block from what I am calling the front...non latch side, for wire color and grouping

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This is the rear side shown for wire grouping

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Next pic shows the front side group 1 of wires, 2 heavey gauge white with green stripe and smaller white with grey bar, to be tied together

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Next is the front side group 2 wires 2 light gauge yellow with red stripe tied together

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Next is group 3 front side of 2 smaller gauge green with grey bars and 1 larger gauge green tied together for a total of 8 wires on the front side

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Last pic is of the rear side of the block...all 10 wires tied together

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I solders these groupings together and taped up individually, the all into one and pointed it upwards and zip tied to the frame.

Yes it works and no more flickering light.

On the UK site, there was 1 more wires on the front side than mine. Those post are hot on my cap but there are no connecting wires to them. Must be for Euro accessories.

Took about 2 hrs for me including drawing a wire diagram and testing connections

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Yes it works and no more flickering light.

On the UK site, there was 1 more wires on the front side than mine. Those post are hot on my cap but there are no connecting wires to them. Must be for Euro accessories.

Took about 2 hrs for me including drawing a wire diagram and testing connections

Nice work porterb123, I recently dismantled mine and found only 1 connector slightly green. I cleaned it, added some dielectric grease and shoved the whole block up by the battery case and zipped it to the cross piece between the subframe rails right by the battery. I had a corner of the block showing so I think I was headed for more trouble down the road. I'm glad I did some prevenative maintainence.

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What year is your bike?

Sounds like something I need to do as I ride in the rain a lot.

Dave

mine is a 1999 and I think the 1999-2000 are the years where the test block can cause you some problems. You can read more about it under the important/useful thread.

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Porterb123,

Thanks for taking the time to for pictures and information on the wire loom fix. I just picked up a 2000 Bird and the FI light would glow with the operation of the turn signal or high beam. I did take the connector apart and cleaned out the corrosion and there have been no other incidents of the FI light coming on with other components. Not sure how long the cleaning will work so I appreciate the hard wire fix information.

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I agree that was some mighty detailed work!!! :icon_clap: I had that same problem on my 00 blackbird and I tried to read a previous post and got sorta confused.. So I just found the loom and did a major cleaning on it.. But no problem since, but I will save this post just in case... Great work, and awesome detail..... :icon_cool:

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This only affects a couple model years, but it is well written and detailed.

I'm afraid I may have to do this. I'll try to take pictures.

May I nominate it for "Important Useful Threads" please? ...or at least stickied?

Thanks,

Bill

  • Upvote 1

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Went to meet up with the old Honda bunch this afternoon.

Red FI light came on. It would go off sometimes if I tapped the brake.

Multiple times the engine started to cut out when I turned on the high beams after dark.

Edited by XXitanium

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This only affects a couple model years, but it is well written and detailed.

I'm afraid I may have to do this. I'll try to take pictures.

May I nominate it for "Important Useful Threads" please? ...or at least stickied?

Thanks,

Bill

Did we not already have a thread on this? I thought I found the info I needed to do mine on this site.

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There are a couple of threads on it.

My only advice is take your battery out or you can fry your ecu.

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One tip....

If you have a electronic parts store (the good kind), they have some kick ass connectors I wish I had used. I used some store-bought crimp-style to hold bundles together so I could work with a soldering iron. They have large ones with the solder included. Insert wire bundle, apply iron, and done. The biggest pain for me was working with such little wire and trying NOT to bump a hot iron against other things.

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I used zip ties to hold the bundles. Then cut. Then stripped and soldered.. very easy

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I finally did mine over the winter. Had trouble getting wire bundles hot enough for solder to flow, so I ended up using a little propane pinpoint torch. Quick and was left with great solder joints.

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The trick there is to 'tin' each wire first. This just means getting each wire wet with solder first.

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My '01 is exhibiting the classic signs of the test connector failure. On several occasions I thought I'd found and fixed the problem by cleaning/repairing different stuff but the fault came back recently. I've also found conflicting into on where the test connector is and how many & what color wires it has so I can know for sure that I'm addressing the test connector and not something else. My understanding is that '01+ models have the test connector as well but that it was modified to be less fail prone. -?-

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The offending xxombie connector - extricated and Exorcised from the 2000.

...it goes to nowhere.

post-1680-0-69314100-1438489455_thumb.jp

post-1680-0-36647300-1438489490_thumb.jp

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My '01 is exhibiting the classic signs of the test connector failure. On several occasions I thought I'd found and fixed the problem by cleaning/repairing different stuff but the fault came back recently. I've also found conflicting into on where the test connector is and how many & what color wires it has so I can know for sure that I'm addressing the test connector and not something else. My understanding is that '01+ models have the test connector as well but that it was modified to be less fail prone. -?-

Don't hesitate to so the fix if you think it could be an issue. 30 mins is all it takes..or less.

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Don't hesitate to so the fix if you think it could be an issue. 30 mins is all it takes..or less.

Or longer...depending on your skill (or lack thereof). :wacko:

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On 6/23/2015 at 8:43 PM, XXitanium said:

May I nominate it for "Important Useful Threads" please? ...or at least stickied?

 

...you're doing something right if your calls you in the middle of the night without hesitation, right?

 

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Greetings.

New to forum...having issues trying to communicate or know how things work.

Question for porterb123....do you have a copy of the pictures posted somewhere of the wire loom fix?

The pictures in your thread are not attached or visible.

Looking for reference on how far to cut up into wire harness.

I have a 2003 with Fi issues, no failure codes just hiccups (starts lurching) & red (Fi) light on...only wire loom issue seems to be published/talked about.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

 

~Bear

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On ‎9‎/‎29‎/‎2006 at 8:04 AM, porterb123 said:

Mine is a 2000 model and it is only the 99 and 2000 models that are affected

Do you have the pictures of your mod somewhere currently (09/13/2018)?

Thanks.

 

~Bear

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 If you read a couple of posts down you'll see it's mostly a 99-2000 problem, as this was solved by the 01 model year.  There are actually two of these, one is right by the battery box taped up in the harness, a big boxy bulge that should be pretty obvious upon close examination.  The ground one gives the most issues, but there is also a power one that is under the tank in the harness on the shifter side of the bike.  Location can vary slightly, but basically in line with the throttle bodies.  It's been so long since I've fixed both that I don't think I have the pictures anymore.

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It wasn't solved in '01.  The '01 and up had the test connector moved up a little and supposedly a little better sealed so they do better, but they also suffer from corrosion issues.  As far as how far to cut, that all depends on how far the corrosion has traveled up the wires.  You might only have corrosion on the terminals or the corrosion could be way up into the harness.

 

This may not be your problem, but it's worth getting in there and at least checking it out.  Some have done it as a preventive measure before symptoms arise and find that there's just the beginnings of corrosion on the terminals.  In that case a good cleaning then sealing it up is all it needs.

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