gourmet Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Is there supposed to be a 1/4 to 3/8's" play when twisting the throttle before the throttle actually rev's the bike? Can't remember if it was always like this but now I am finding it very annoying. Is there a way to tighten it? is this normal and I should just leave it alone? Thoughts? Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajjer9 Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Is there supposed to be a 1/4 to 3/8's" play when twisting the throttle before the throttle actually rev's the bike? Can't remember if it was always like this but now I am finding it very annoying. Is there a way to tighten it? is this normal and I should just leave it alone? Thoughts? Brian easily adjusted at the throttle...loosen the nut on the curved metal thingy then adjust till there is no slack in the twist...geez I said "thingy" never thought that would happen!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Involute Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 I thought the rule of thumb was 1/8" freeplay or so. Maybe I'm wrong but thats where I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gourmet Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 Thanks for the help guys, I will try that when I get home tonight. "Thingy" works for me perfectly! Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBRBob Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Just remember to turn the bars to find the spot where it takes up the most slack and then adjust it so there is zero play. That way the throttle will never open by moving the bars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonox Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 at the risk of sounding like a twat, if you RTFM, you'll find it is section 3-5 2-6mm (1/16 - 1/4") measure at the throttle grip flange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exskibum Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 I don't care what the service manual recommends. I set it to where I like it -- which is almost no play (other than as may be necessary to avoid the handle bar position binding that Bob mentioned). For me, it's easier to smoothly roll throttle on and off (esp. with two fingers on the brake lever) from a fully closed position when adjusted that way. Not suggesting anyone else do that, and it could feel way too sensitive to someone unused to that, but that's what I've always liked and am used to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obby Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 I don't care what the service manual recommends. I set it to where I like it -- which is almost no play (other than as necessary to avoid the handle bar position binding that Bob mentioned). For me, it's easier to smoothly roll throttle on and off (esp. with two fingers on the brake lever) from a fully closed position when adjusted that way. Not suggesting anyone else do that, and it could feel way too sensitive to someone unused to that, but that's what I've always liked and am used to. I like NO PLAY too. At least hardly noticeable. Turning the handlebars is always a good idea too. Don't ask me how I found out . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asemaster Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 I like little to no play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 I like little to no play. No play makes Tom a dull boy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZDave Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 I don't care what the service manual recommends. I set it to where I like it -- which is almost no play (other than as may be necessary to avoid the handle bar position binding that Bob mentioned). For me, it's easier to smoothly roll throttle on and off (esp. with two fingers on the brake lever) from a fully closed position when adjusted that way. Not suggesting anyone else do that, and it could feel way too sensitive to someone unused to that, but that's what I've always liked and am used to. Same here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shovelstrokeed Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 +1 on the little to no play consistent with being able to turn the bars from lock to lock with no change in RPM. Sure makes slow speed riding a breeze. Since most of my throttle control comes from the palm of my hand rather than fingers and wrists, it greatly eases off/on throttle transitions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomek Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 As little as possible,or no play here.I don`t care what manual says. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunedain Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 Is there supposed to be a 1/4 to 3/8's" play when twisting the throttle before the throttle actually rev's the bike? Is there a way to tighten it? is this normal and I should just leave it alone? Thoughts? no yes no, no Get a service manual to taqke to a dealer. My throttle free play is zero. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt_mule Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 Which way should the adjuster be turned to tighten the freeplay? Also, does it take goofy size wrench, like 8.5mm? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exskibum Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 Which way should the adjuster be turned to tighten the freeplay? Also, does it take goofy size wrench, like 3.5mm? Thanks Sorry, but sometimes a member will ask a question that makes it crystal clear that, for his own safety and for the well being of the motorcycle, HE MUST TAKE IT TO A MECHANIC. This was such a question -- actually, two such questions. If you could not figure out the answers, you have no business trying this at home. :icon_wall: Honestly, do it -- it'll take them all of a minute or two to adjust it unless something is seriously f'd up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt_mule Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 Wow. I ask a question that the answer is lacking in the shop manual and I must be an idiot. I guess wanting to get it right the first time means I have no business working on this aspect of the bike in the first place. As far as the wrench size, I meant to type 8.5mm, not 3.5 mm. I have eliminated the freeplay only when the steering head is turned completely to the left (without revving), but there is still 1/8" of play in all other steering positions. I guess I should take it to the dealer, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exskibum Posted July 14, 2006 Share Posted July 14, 2006 I must be an idiot. I don't know -- I didn't say that, but OK if you say so. Go ahead and get pissed off -- those questions demonstrated a lack of experience wrenching on a bike or much anything else. Either that or you're smoking some good stuff and you need to share with the rest of the board. I guess wanting to get it right the first time means I have no business working on this aspect of the bike in the first place. As far as the wrench size, I meant to type 8.5mm, not 3.5 mm. I have eliminated the freeplay only when the steering head is turned completely to the left (without revving), but there is still 1/8" of play in all other steering positions. Really?? If that's true, then how could you NOT know which way to turn it? And if you'd ever adjusted a throttle cable, why in the hell would you have to ask (as opposed to just turning it and observing what happens to the free play)??? It's not even close to complicated. :icon_think: Not sure I've ever seen an adjuster in line on a throttle cable that didn't adjust exactly the same way, with only minor variations in the execution of the same theme: loosen the locking nut and turn the adjuster to extend the cable sheath. For the Bird, it's 10 mm for the locking nut, 8 mm for the hex adjuster. Why would you NEED to ask that? BTW, I've seen the pretty rare 5.5 mm size, but never a 8.5 mm, much less a tiny 3.5 mm. Not saying that such tool sizes don't exist for specialty applications, but for motorcycles? I guess I should take it to the dealer, right? I'd say so, in fact, I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gourmet Posted July 16, 2006 Author Share Posted July 16, 2006 Tightened, it to nearly no play. Took a grand total of 3 minutes, that long because the wrenches weren't where they were supposed to be. This couldn't be simpler. I put the question out here because in 20 plus years of riding have never ever had to adjust a throttle cable. You guys all rock, with your help you saved me time and I appreciate it. Thanks Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 Wow. I ask a question that the answer is lacking in the shop manual and I must be an idiot. I guess wanting to get it right the first time means I have no business working on this aspect of the bike in the first place. As far as the wrench size, I meant to type 8.5mm, not 3.5 mm. Put it this way, if you have the stock tool kit on the bike you can do all your maintance with it and have the right tools. May not be idea but will work. IE I'd rather use a ratchet than a wrench... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.