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Chain tension question


tgo63

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Today I had new chain installed at local Honda dealer. He also replaced both sprockets with O.E.M. I bought sprockets some time ago but did not change them when I replaced my oem chain first time at 17000 miles. BTW front and rear sprockets do not show much wear at 33500 miles. When I picked up my bike I was in hurry since I had quite busy day at work and had to come back quickly. When leaving work I placed bike on center stand and noticed the chain is very loose. When lifting chain up it would move up until it rested against swing arm. It would move a little more if swing arm was not in its way. I figure it had more then 2 inches of slack. Since manual mentions 1 to 1 3/8 in of slack I took the bike back to dealer. The mechanic left for the test drive and young guy who works there responded to my concern the chain slack should be check with bike on side stand, and it's even better when rider sits on the bike. The salesperson came out next and said the chain 'stretched' during my 5 minutes gentle ride. I answered that I had many chains replaced in my life and none of them stretched that much in first five minutes of riding! After few minutes mechanic came back from ride and confirmed he checks chain slack with the bike on side stand. When I mentioned the manual mentions the chain slack should be adjusted with the bike on the center stand his answer was 'you can not always trust manual'. Honestly in my opinion 1 in of slack with the bike on center stand seems to be a little tight but what is correct way to check chain tension? I always trust manual so I was a little skeptical about mechanic opinion. The total labor cost of replacing two sprockets and chain was $90.00. Also my wheel alignment indicators are both on the 4th notch which means the axel is just outside the green (good chain) area. I'm saving money for chain tool.

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From my Honda service manual...

Turn the ignition switch OFF, place the motorcycle on it's side stand and shift the transmission into neutral.

Check the slack in the drive chain lower run midway between the sprockets

CHAIN SLACK 25-35 mm (1 - 1-3/8)

There you have it :icon_cool:

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From my Honda service manual...

Turn the ignition switch OFF, place the motorcycle on it's side stand and shift the transmission into neutral.

Check the slack in the drive chain lower run midway between the sprockets

CHAIN SLACK 25-35 mm (1 - 1-3/8)

There you have it :icon_cool:

My first reaction was 'what the hell I was smoking...Then I went to check my owner manual:

page 135: 'Before servicing your drive chain, turn the engine off, lower the CENTER stand (page 55), and check that your transmission is in neutral'

page 136: 'Check slack in the lower drive chain. Drive chain slack should allow the following vertical movement by hand: 1 - 1 3/8 in'

page 139, chain adjustment: 'Place the motorcycle on its center stand with the transmisson in neutral and ignition switch off, adjust the chain etc., Rotate the rear wheel and recheck chain slack. Drive chain slack should allow the following vertical movement by hand: 1 - 1 3/8 in'

Are not all owner manual the same?

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I know I've seen this question discussed at length in one or more posts, but with the new Search Engine, I couldn't find it in more than an hour of looking. (Almost always ended up with 22 pages of stuff to look through with any combination of search arguments.)

I think the downloadable shop manual actually contradicts itself as it says sidestand, but shows the centerstand down in the picture, then later tells you to rotate and freewheel the tire which would be a just a little more difficult on the sidestand. This is discussed on pages 3-22 and 3-23 of the PDF shop manual.

My old brain recollects that the centerstand is correct and the sidestand is in error, although unless you carry a lot of static weight on the rear of the bike, I don't think it would really change much either way. On my '03 with the Beetlebags loaded with a bunch of day-to-day stuff, the rear suspension is fully extended to the top stop while on the sidestand.

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I quoted owner manual that came with 02 silver bird. Now I'm getting more confused. If the recommended slack of 1 to 1 3/8 in should be checked on the side stand setting the same slack with the bike on it's center stand would result in way to tight tension

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"Way too tight" is probably overstating it.

How's this- if you set it on the sidestand, set it on the tighter side of the range, centerstand, set it on the looser side of the range. There's 3/8" available range, and I don't think the difference between the side and centerstand would even be that much. If I get bored tomorrow, I'll check the actual difference.

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Although it's been a while since I've had an XX, IIRC the sidestand was how it was suppose to be checked. Think about all of the other bikes out there WITHOUT a centerstand.....every cruiser made, every sportbike made, etc.

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I check chain adjustment with the bike on the side stand, just like the manual says. When I adjust the chain, I put the bike on the center stand so I can spin the wheel and look for variations in slack attributable to chain stretch or sprocket variations, and make the adjustment from what appears to be the tightest spot. I tend to run the adjustment on the loose side, and I can just make the chain touch the bottom of the swingarm with the bike on the sidestand.

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I just checked my 97 owners manual. It calls for INSPECTION on the centerstand i.e. checking tracking, link condition, and slack. Which should be 1-1.4 inches.

For just checking adjustment it calls for putting it on the side stand and setting slack at 1-1.4 inches.

So now we need to wait for Tim to come back and let us know if there is a difference.

I know clear as mud :icon_wink:

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Sidestand? centerstand? What's the difference??

When my bike is on the sidestand the rear suspension is topped out anyway just like it is on the centerstand. You'll get the same measurement.

The manual tells you to adjust on the sidestand so that the wheel gets pushed forward when you loosen the axle nut and takes out the play in the mechanism.

As long as you remember to push the wheel forward while you tighten the axle nut and then snug the adjusters so they pull the axle to the rear lightly, just do it on the centerstand.

The quoted tension is with the suspension topped out. This is when there is the most slack in the chain. Honda has alredy done the math for you. Then when you sit on the bike it tightens up. If you are heavy enough or suspension is too loose, you will compress till the sprockets and swingarm pivot are all in the same plane. This is the tightest the chain will be. If you can go past that point (dirtbikes can) the chain loosens up again.

The 1 to 1.25in. is so that when it's at it's tightest (straight line) there is just barely some slack.

You learn all about this with dirt bikes with 12in. of rear travel.

For all you guys that did the 6mm shim you have to add more slack with the suspension topped out because now the suspension is 3/4in. higher.

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Sidestand to adjust.........

All I know if I adjust slack with the bike on the centerstand and then go for a ride the chain is way to tight. I’ve always have adjusted my chains on all of my bikes via the sidestand.

Then again I may have been fucking up for the last 21 years.......... not.

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One more opinion. I start with the 1 3/8 slack and the sit on the bike. If the chain has no slack when I'm sitting on it, I loosen it till it has a little give. My thoughts are I don't want excess pressure on the countershaft sprocket and its associated seal and bearing

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1999 - 2001 Honda Service Manual sez............

place the motorcycle on its side stand

CHAIN SLACK: 25 - 35 mm (1.0 - 1.4 in)

I set mine closer to 1.75 in and with the Scottoiler, I hardly ever have to adjust it. (currently have 33,500 miles on the OEM sprockets and chain and not even close to replacement time)

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