rideonXX Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 J.----------and others that may be interested----if I may add a little information to this thread. The proper way to load the adjusting bolt so that it won't move (ask any machinist from the 'hand crank' days) is to turn the adjuster in so that you can tap the tire forward just enough so that you can move it back to the desired position with the adjusting bolts. This is called taking the lash out of the threads. If you go too far---you have to start over. It's the only way to load all of the threads---all of the time. If you tighten the axel nut and screw the adjuster out to it you are only loading part of the treads and it can vibrate loose. It is then a crap shoot. For what it's worth----------happy trails kel (oh---and yes, I am a machinist and owned a shop for about 20 years---if they adds any credibility) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 Thanks J. for resurecting my Humbling thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 Thanks J. for resurecting my Humbling thread. Many apologies, Pete. I read thru it, and found it very interesting. The way I see it, if it saves a few guys some time in the shop, or avoids a chronic chain loosening problem, it's worth the bump. When I fitted my new DID chain after my case broke, I readjusted it after around 500 miles. In the subsequent 15,000 miles, I've not needed to readjust. I had originally thought that the chain had to "wear in" for a few miles, but I'm betting that I didn't firm up the adjusting bolts, and that was the reason for the initial chain wear. It just got me to thinking, which is the point of the Garage threads, IMO. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squareman357 Posted March 15, 2006 Author Share Posted March 15, 2006 You're right Red, and it does help. My problem ended up being over tightening at the shop, and the chain gave up the ghost and spit red dust all over the rear wheel. Tim helped me (actually he did most of the work showing me how ) put a new chain on, and after an initial adjustment it's still well in the green, hasn't needed much adjustment and has well over 13K on it. I learned alot about the rear end as well, while doing this, so yeah, it was a good thread and if someone can learn from it, that's great too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgo63 Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 O.K. I know my chain is shot, but I just wonder where brick red dust is coming from? What's causing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 O.K. I know my chain is shot, but I just wonder where brick red dust is coming from? What's causing it? Pins, rollers, side plates are dry, no grease left in the chain because sealing rings are dry, or whatever. Where they rub each other, bare metal exists. When sitting, that rusts. When it rolls again, that gets broken off and shows up as dust. Repeat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 I've got 2 pins just starting to show the red dust. I'll be needing a chain and front sprocket this year some time. Hope the new DID 530 ZVM2 chain is better and lasts longer then the old one, it's $50 more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squareman357 Posted March 17, 2006 Author Share Posted March 17, 2006 I've got 2 pins just starting to show the red dust. I'll be needing a chain and front sprocket this year some time. Hope the new DID 530 ZVM2 chain is better and lasts longer then the old one, it's $50 more. I'd say don't ride anywhere far if you're showing that red dust on your chain. It goes from that to stretched out in no time flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgo63 Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 I've got 2 pins just starting to show the red dust. I'll be needing a chain and front sprocket this year some time. Hope the new DID 530 ZVM2 chain is better and lasts longer then the old one, it's $50 more. I'd say don't ride anywhere far if you're showing that red dust on your chain. It goes from that to stretched out in no time flat. I keep it under 120 since I noticed red dust on mine...My new chain coming in today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Ok heres the deal. I was getting ready to merge into traffic coming back from Kentucky and I hit it a little hard. As I shifted to third felt a strange shuddering. I rolled off a bit, shifted up to fourth, and it was gone. Back to third, nothing, so I shifted up again and went on my way. Gassing up I checked the chain and everything looked fine. At the next gas stop, I forgot to zip the sides of my pants and reconnect my audio, so I pulled over under an overpass and fixed up myself. Getting back on the road a truck was coming, so once again I rolled on a bit hard and shifting to third I felt the shudder again. It dissapeared as soon as I shifted, and after turning off the music and listening, i didn't hear anything amiss. Some 400 miles later I pull up in front of the house and dismount, and lo and behold the chain is practically laying on the centerstand. There has to be at least 4 inches of free play vertically in the chain now. I unloaded all my gear and sat on the bike to see how much slack it would take up and it was nearly none. I slowly rode it around the block to the garage and put it away, and it seems like everything is still connected and all the sprockets still have all their teeth. I will definitely need a new chain, and possibly new sprockets, and from the looks of it I was lucky to make it home. Ok here are the questions. What could cause something like that to occur? Do I need to be worried about my gearbox? As of my arrival home the chain has 14,350 miles on it and is the stock chain, as are the sprockets. The rear sprocket isn't shark finned and has normal wear. When I say rolling on hard, I don't mean redlining, but I did run it up to about 8 or 9k before shifting. So...thoughts? One half of my chain stretched one morning and it literally waved up and dowm, when i spun the wheel on the main stand. It was perfect the day before, I simply worked it very hard (thrashed it) whilst cold, now I make sure the chain and the motor is hot before fanging it. (believe this or not, co's I cant explain it any other way). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 ...bump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 Only time I've seen "instant stretch" on my chain is when it was dying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 30 minutes ago, Aunt Zero said: Only time I've seen "instant stretch" on my chain is when it was dying. They do. End of life grenade. I'm in the market after last season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 Don't know about anyone else, but if I found a chain and sprocket set for the Bird today for $200, I'd be skeptical of the quality. Ain't inflation great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 10 hours ago, jon haney said: Don't know about anyone else, but if I found a chain and sprocket set for the Bird today for $200, I'd be skeptical of the quality. Ain't inflation great. I'd expect to pay more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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