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Brake Fluid Replacement Procedure (flush method)


Involute

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After reviewing the Shop Manual and previous posts regarding flushing the brake fluid without introducing any air in our beloved XX’s I’m pretty sure I have the process down. I’ll know for sure when I actually do it. Can you folks who have already done this please review what I have below and let me know if I am off base please? Based upon other posts I think there may be some confusion regarding this so I am posting this for clarification for myself as well as any others that want to do this. This obviously only applies to those of us without a pump or Mity-vac type device. I'd hate to have my ignorance screw up someone else that takes this as the way to do it so if there are errors PLEASE let me know and I'll fix them. Thanks.

**DO NOT ALLOW ANY BRAKE FLUID TO CONTACT ANY PAINT. KEEP WATER CLOSE BY TO WASH IT OFF IN CASE IT DOES****

Front Brakes:

1- Remove most of the old brake fluid from the front reservoir and top it off with fresh stuff. Try to remove any thick gunk you may find. Try a Q-Tip but don't leave any fibers in.

2- Attach a hose to the Right Front Outer Bleed Valve and put the open end in a receptacle.

3- Crack open the Bleed Valve and gently actuate the Front Brake Lever in order to pump out the old fluid. Add fresh fluid as needed to the reservoir avoid running out.

4- Keep pumping and adding until nothing but fresh fluid comes out of the hose. Have an assistant close the valve while pumping.

5- Top off the reservoir and repeat steps 2 thru 4 on the Left Front Outer Bleed Valve. Top off the reservoir and replace the cover.

Rear Brakes:

6- Remove the seat and rear cowl.

7- Remove most of the old brake fluid from the rear reservoir and top it off with fresh stuff.

8- Attach a hose to the Right Front Center Bleed Valve and put the open end in a receptacle.

9- Crack open the Bleed Valve and gently actuate the Rear Brake Pedal in order to pump out the old fluid. Add fresh fluid as needed to the reservoir avoid running out.

10- Keep pumping and adding until nothing but fresh fluid comes out of the hose. Have an assistant close the valve while pumping.

11- Top off the reservoir and repeat steps 8 thru 10 on the Left Front Center Bleed Valve.

12- Attach a hose to the Rear Outer Bleed Valve and put the open end in a receptacle.

13- Crack open the Bleed Valve and gently actuate the Rear Brake Pedal in order to pump out the old fluid. Add fresh fluid as needed to the reservoir avoid running out.

14- Keep pumping and adding until nothing but fresh fluid comes out of the hose. Have an assistant close the valve while pumping.

15- Top off the reservoir and repeat steps 12 thru 14 on the Rear Center Bleed Valve.

16- Top off the rear reservoir and replace the cover.

17- Actuate the Front Brake Level a few times to build up pressure and while squeezing the lever have an assistant quickly open and close the Front Outer Left and Right Bleed Valves after attaching the hose to each.

18- Pump the Rear Brake Pedal a few times to build up pressure and while squeezing the pedal have an assistant quickly open and close the Right Front Center, Left Front Center, Rear Outer and Rear Center Bleed Valves after attaching the hose to each.

19- Put everything back together and test ride.

Edit: Just did the deed exactly as stated above. I failed to realize that in order to get the old stuff flushed out I had to apply the brake, open the valve until the brake was fully compressed as the fluid flushed out and then close the valve without letting go of the brake. Pump up the brake again to pressurize and repeat the process over and over until the fresh stuff comes out. Forgive me for stating the obvious to you guys that have done this before but this was the first time I have ever done this on any car or bike. I figure there may be another brake service virgin out there like me that would benefit from a shadetree mechanics writeup. :oops:

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It's covered pretty well with the exception of two things:

First and most importantly COVER anything/ everything as the fluid will eat any painted surface.

Secondly keep a water bottle full of water in case you spill anything anywhere.

I have a mity-vac but usually don't use it on stuff like that. It's an easy tw-person job to do the brakes and clutch fluid. It does take about two small bottles to do it all. Any left over dispose of properly as it doesn't stay well on a shelf and it's certainly cheap enough to buy fresh stuff when needed.

All said, it's about a two to three beer job betwen the two of you, ain't no big thang.

Steve

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Can DOT5.1 just be directly substituted or is there something special that has to be done?

One word..... NO!!!! Dot 3 or 4 only! Any 5 and you can start looking for a new brake system or all new seals and lines.

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Ok, it's officially nap time!!! How did I not see that .1??? I SWEAR I just saw DOT 5...... I'm losin' it....

What Chris said!!! :oops: :oops:

Alan

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Can DOT5.1 just be directly substituted or is there something special that has to be done?

One word..... NO!!!! Dot 3 or 4 only! Any 5 and you can start looking for a new brake system or all new seals and lines.

Funny how DOT 5.1 is now called ABS Brake Fluid... Probably for just that reason! How STUPID could the DOT get and name a DOT 3/4 compatible brake fluid 5.1 (silicon based and NOT DOT 3/4 compatible) is beyond me!!! When I purchased the last couple of bottles of DOT 5.1 (at Checker) A (heated) discussion was had with the clerk... He insisted that there was no such thing as 5.1 and a wiser, cooler headed clerk showed me to the ABS brake fluid...

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The only thing I would add is to check the reservoir for any dirt or debris and clean that out before you flush. Q-tips work well just watch for loose fibers.

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What's wrong with DOT 5? I've used it in all my bikes since it came out and never had a problem. It can be mixed with DOT 4 too.

One easy method of replacing your fluid is to get one of the old fashioned oil squirt cans, the ones like the tin man used. You can get them cheap at Auto Zone. Also get some clear hose that will fit on the bleeder cap. Fill the can with brake fluid, loosen the bleeder, then squirt from the bottom up. No air, very little mess, and since you never let air get in in the first place you don't have to bleed...

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DOT 5 is silicone fluid. It is NOT compatible with DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 or the rubber seals in the entire system.

Hardly's come factory with 5 and must be used exclusively.

5 won't mix with water so any moisture that gets in the system will pool and cause corrosion there.

Stick with DOT 4.

I use Valvoline synthetic DOT 4 available anywhere.

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DOT 5 is silicone fluid. It is NOT compatible with DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 or the rubber seals in the entire system.

You are correct. I went out in the shop and got out an old DOT 5.X (5.something, it's hard to read) can and it said that it could be mixed with DOT 3 or 4, but then I looked at the can I bought the other day (DOT 5) and it says just the opposite.

Now I gotta go out and flush and refill my clutch. Bummer.

Glad I read this thread, I guess I had been using 5.1 all this time...

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Okay, after reading this post and discovering I had incorrectly used DOT 5 in my clutch I went to Auto Zone this morning and got the stuff to fix it. I ended up coming with yet another way, instead of using my trusty old tin man oil can squirter, I did this:

Buy one of the 2 stroke oil mixing syringes. They hold way plenty brake fluid for a fill and the 3/16" I.D. clear vinyl tubing you'll need to fit the bleeder bolt fits on it well. This time I used the "ABS" fluid and everything I needed to fill the clutch (and probably enough to do the brakes) was about $10. And by filling it from the bottom up you'll only have a teenie but of air (maybe none) to bleed.

By the way I've never been able to do this on any bike without getting the stuff all over the place, no matter how careful I am. Just be sure to clean up after you're finished.

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For MikeOK, I hope your clutch system behaves with that short exposure to the DOT 5.

Did you also put the stuff in the brakes? I would rather you loose your clutch then your brakes.

If you did do the brake fluid and change back to DOT 3 or 4, every time you get on to ride test the brakes before you take off for a while.

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I only had it in the clutch side, and only for a few days. I went ahead and flushed it out to be on the safe side. It worked fine with the DOT 5, and I have since talked to others who have switched completely over to DOT 5 but I understand you have to completely flush in order to use it. It's supposed to be more heat tolerant, and now I remember this same discussion came up on one of the dirt bike boards I used to frequent.

I went back and re-read a few of the old discussions and several people report improved braking while racing MX with the DOT 5 because of less brake fade. I can't find where any one of them had seal problems after using it, either.

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