blackhawkxx Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 You guys have any tips or tricks for removing a small split type roll pin from a blind hole? It locks in the inner tie rod on a rack and pinion. I changed one some years ago and broke many drill bits trying to drill it out and now have to do the other side. If I remember right it is about 1/8", no more the 3/16". Keep in mind this will be done laying under the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biometrix Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 Ok stupid question maybe but why are you trying to drill it out instead of using a roll pin punch and just pounding it through? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 ...same question crossed my mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted April 25, 2023 Author Share Posted April 25, 2023 1 hour ago, Biometrix said: Ok stupid question maybe but why are you trying to drill it out instead of using a roll pin punch and just pounding it through? If you read my first sentence, the pin is in blind hole, meaning there is no other side. It has to come out the way it went in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biometrix Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 5 hours ago, blackhawkxx said: If you read my first sentence, the pin is in blind hole, meaning there is no other side. It has to come out the way it went in. Ah! I did read that but interpreted it differently as in you couldn't see the hole and were working by feel. That's a pretty dumb design for using a roll pin. Clearly the engineer didn't ever want it taken apart. Any chance you can drill a hole from the opposite side or through the center of the pin to the other side and then punch it out the way it went in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero Knievel Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 Does the insert terminate before the end of the hole? If so, try anything long enough with a lip (think nail head). Catch the edge and see if you can gently work it back out enough...hopefully enough to grip something on your end to more effectively pry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhawk996 Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 What car is this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Thermite 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted April 25, 2023 Author Share Posted April 25, 2023 7 hours ago, Biometrix said: That's a pretty dumb design for using a roll pin. Clearly the engineer didn't ever want it taken apart. Couldn't agree more. Drilling from the other side while under the car and getting it to line up would be a long shot and wouldn't save much from just drilling the pin. It's a 70's Ford. While most of the stuff is very easy to work on some of designs were not as good as later stuff as far as function. I'll get it out, I was just thinking maybe someone had I trick that I haven't heard of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon haney Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 6 hours ago, Zero Knievel said: Does the insert terminate before the end of the hole? If so, try anything long enough with a lip (think nail head). Catch the edge and see if you can gently work it back out enough...hopefully enough to grip something on your end to more effectively pry. If the hole is 1/8 or 3/16", a paper-clip is about all you can get in there. There might be a very special tool for this, but it will still cost way more than several drill bits. I would use cobalt bits, high-speed, and very slow feed. And lube. Everything is better with lube. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 A wild idea, depending on metal thickness... Use a small drill to go through the center of the pin and out the other side. Then enlarge that, and press out normally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 Locktite makes a product that is used to glue a steel dowel into a broken spark plug, then a threaded puller is used to pull the core out. The challenge in the case of the roll pin is avoiding gluing the roll pin to the shaft while still getting the glue to adhere to the dowel and pin. My other thought was a small drywall screw (very hard steel, but brittle) to engage only the roll pin and then the puller of your choice to pull the pin out. There are some great suggestions above. I suppose changing it into the fourth state of matter isn't a productive option, but maybe you could find the designer of said assembly and turn them into the fourth state of matter instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted April 25, 2023 Author Share Posted April 25, 2023 17 minutes ago, IcePrick said: My other thought was a small drywall screw (very hard steel, but brittle) to engage only the roll pin and then the puller of your choice to pull the pin out. The thing about spit roll pins are as you insert anything inside, they expand to grip even tighter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 1 minute ago, blackhawkxx said: The thing about spit roll pins are as you insert anything inside, they expand to grip even tighter. True. The challenge is to limit the amount of expansion while getting good "bite" with the threads. I don't know what material the roll pin is made out of, if it's a spring steel that approach probably won't fly. But I have seen this be successful before, specifically the same arrangement holding a distributor gear in place. The roll pin isn't usually in with a lot of tension (unless yours is rusted/corroded). The distributor we at least had on a bench, I don't envy your predicament. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwampNut Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 2 minutes ago, IcePrick said: I don't know what material the roll pin is made out of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted April 25, 2023 Share Posted April 25, 2023 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted April 26, 2023 Author Share Posted April 26, 2023 6 hours ago, IcePrick said: True. The challenge is to limit the amount of expansion while getting good "bite" with the threads. I don't know what material the roll pin is made out of, if it's a spring steel that approach probably won't fly. But I have seen this be successful before, specifically the same arrangement holding a distributor gear in place. The roll pin isn't usually in with a lot of tension (unless yours is rusted/corroded). The distributor we at least had on a bench, I don't envy your predicament. I did find a tool (I'm NOT getting) that works on the principle you were talking about. $133 https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7122R-Lock-Remover-Ford/dp/B000RHZPRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted April 26, 2023 Share Posted April 26, 2023 1 minute ago, blackhawkxx said: I did find a tool (I'm NOT getting) that works on the principle you were talking about. $133 https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7122R-Lock-Remover-Ford/dp/B000RHZPRY Meh. Make it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockmeupto125 Posted April 26, 2023 Share Posted April 26, 2023 50 years of corrosion is a hard thing to fight. I'd still try to sneak a screw in their and get a puller on it just to say I tried. That's the same principle behind the tool that icepick advocated. If there is enough of a hole that you can get a small pin punch or even a nail inside the roll pin, you could inject some grease or heavy liquid and then take a good wack at whatever you found that can fit inside the pin. Probably have to refill a couple times, but hopefully the hydraulic pressure might express the pin out enough to get the mightymighty vise grip onto it. At least it will be lubed for drilling 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesail Posted April 28, 2023 Share Posted April 28, 2023 Drill and tap it to the next convenient size. A machine screw won't cause much expansion and should give a good pull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted April 28, 2023 Author Share Posted April 28, 2023 I got it out tonight and I'm not sure it wasn't the one I already changed. Couldn't find any markings on it at all. The pin was a lot smaller than I remembered and I tried some different screws a little while but noticed there was a tiny tiny bit maybe a 1/32" raised above the hole and the screws had spread it a little. Using side cuts and some patience it came out. Thanks everyone for the suggestions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IcePrick Posted April 28, 2023 Share Posted April 28, 2023 Glad you got it out. Time to find a better fastening scheme for that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXitanium Posted April 28, 2023 Share Posted April 28, 2023 3 hours ago, blackhawkxx said: I got it out tonight and I'm not sure it wasn't the one I already changed. ...bo pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted April 28, 2023 Author Share Posted April 28, 2023 6 hours ago, IcePrick said: Glad you got it out. Time to find a better fastening scheme for that. Thanks. Doesn't seem likely I'll have to do it again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhawkxx Posted April 28, 2023 Author Share Posted April 28, 2023 4 hours ago, XXitanium said: ...bo pictures? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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