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Will this work?


Zero Knievel

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The range top sits in the hole cut into the new countertop.  It’s larger than needed, so the range top shifts from time to time.  Mom doesn’t want to bolt it down in case it ever needs replacement and the replacement’s footprint doesn’t match for holes.

 

I bought some Permatex Clear RTV Silicone.  My thought was to apply a dab at the front corners, and when it cures, it will be a strong enough hold to prevent it slipping.  I’m concerned about heat, but if the burners emitted that much heat at the countertop level, the range top would be too hot to touch and the counter would melt.

 

Thoughts?  If not this, what product would be better?

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As far as what the stove top should have come with, we’re talking 30 years ago. Also, the last countertop had a precision cut hole so we didn’t have to worry about mounting it permanently so it wouldn’t shift.

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16 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

Mom doesn’t want to bolt it down in case it ever needs replacement and the replacement’s footprint doesn’t match for holes.

 

Always live your whole life around planning for the worst.  Sheesh.

 

You could also use wood blocks to simply make it bigger where it needs to be.  Stick them on with light glue or double-stick tape.

 

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I hoped to find the original mounting hardware.  No luck.  Here’s what I’m working with…perhaps spring clips?


Photos to follow…

 

 

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Edited by Zero Knievel
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23 hours ago, SwampNut said:

Always live your whole life around planning for the worst.  Sheesh.


Failure to so do is why we’re out THOUSANDS because dad presumed we’d never need to work on or replace something.  I could probably tabulate and easy $10K so far in house repairs because he didn’t think something was necessary.

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2 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

If the next one is too small to cover screw holes, wouldn't it also be too small for the cut-out?


Yeah, the guy went by the wrong measurement and nearly cut out too much material.  That would have forced them to provide a whole new countertop…again.

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7 hours ago, XXitanium said:

Is it just a straight piece of counter, or is there a 90° corner or something even more complicated?


Straight where the cooktop is, but 90 degrees on both ends.  Came in 2 parts and had to be glued together.  The first one was poorly made and should never have left the factory.  Head of QC came out and redid it all (to their credit), but he commented that this happened all the time…installs without a final review by QC before installation…resulting in complete replacements at the company’s cost.

 

7 hours ago, XXitanium said:

How much did they charge you for the countertop?


Don’t recall off hand.  Not crazy expensive but not cheap.  It’s a step up from the fiberboard/laminate basic countertops (original was still in good condition).  This is a resin composite.  Looks like stone but isn’t.

 

4CDD4EB3-D505-4462-8D03-B6EEA203131B.jpeg.a71f5fd3aef2b0594a594b3878834970.jpeg

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14 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:


Yeah, the guy went by the wrong measurement and nearly cut out too much material.  That would have forced them to provide a whole new countertop…again.

You apparently missed my point.  Mom is worried that if you drill for screws and the next range was smaller it wouldn't cover those holes.  But if the next range is smaller wouldn't it also be too small for the cut-out?  Meaning that you couldn't install it at all so the screw holes wouldn't matter.  And I would have made them replace it and make the cutout the correct size, but I know you'd rather have something complicated to figure out over the next year and 3 pages of help.

 

Just use the silicone, stop overthinking it.  If it gets hot enough to let go, re-do it with high temp silicone.  Or just buy that and be guaranteed done.

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It would be the exact same problem, of course.

 

Trent just ran into this, it's pretty common, because the tops have actually become more compact over time.  He had a nice stainless steel trim ring made and not only solved the problem, it looks way better.  There are always solutions, unless you choose to always look for problems.

 

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No…that’s the base of the unit…the catch pan for anything that falls through the heating element hole.

 

Lowes and Home Depot understood my situation, but they didn’t have anything in stock that addressed it.  Searching inventory wasn’t helpful since unless you know exactly what something is called, you get results for a ton of stuff that’s not what you want.

 

However, I had an idea.  Why not make a shim to close the gap?  I have lots of scrap wood.  Taking measurements, I’m trying to close a 1 1/8” gap in the front and 10/16” gaps on the side.  The counter itself is 1/4” thick.  If I want to do front and back evenly, that’s a 9/16” gap for front and back.  I also noticed that with the exposed holes, I could secure it to the drip pan where the shim and hole aligns.

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1 hour ago, Zero Knievel said:

However, I had an idea.  Why not make a shim to close the gap?  I have lots of scrap wood.

 

If only someone had thought of that.

 

On 2/24/2023 at 8:36 AM, SwampNut said:

You could also use wood blocks to simply make it bigger where it needs to be.  Stick them on with light glue or double-stick tape.

 

 

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