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2000 Model year XX electrical diagnosis


JJMills1993

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1 hour ago, Furbird said:

I don't think we were clear, or if you watched the video or not, but you actually have to unplug the block and check the inside to verify there is no corrosion on that ground and power test connectors.  I'd be shocked on a 22 year old bike if it doesn't have some corrosion in it.  Not doubting you, just saying historically speaking that is very rare.

Also re-read the previous and it popped a 30 amp fuse which means you had a dead short in the ECM (or perhaps somewhere else in the wiring that also fried the ECM.)

Over the years I have added an additional battery to engine and battery to frame ground separate from the factory connections.  Just something I've always done as a carryover from my years in car audio installs because the factory stuff was always so lackluster.  If somebody has been in there digging around they may have left something unbolted and you may have missed it.  There's one ground right by the battery where the left tank bolt is (I believe that's right, off the top of my head) you might want to check and make sure that's there or not loose.

It is surprisingly clean but I am still going to perform the loom fix. I have two “plugs” they appear to be used as a bus bar one for positive and negative connections. There is continuity between all wires in the ground distribution when back probed with the cap on. 
 

There was a dead short in the Ecm. After it popping the fuse (6 times for proof of concept) I ordered another one off ebay. It no longer pops the fuse. 
 

I have removed and cleaned the frame where that ground is bolted In. Even sanded off some surrounding paint to

ensure a good ground. 

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7 hours ago, JJMills1993 said:

It is surprisingly clean but I am still going to perform the loom fix. I have two “plugs” they appear to be used as a bus bar one for positive and negative connections. There is continuity between all wires in the ground distribution when back probed with the cap on. 
 

 

" I have two “plugs” they appear to be used as a bus bar one for positive and negative connections."           Not sure what that means

 

"There is continuity between all wires in the ground distribution when back probed with the cap on. "              That may be so but is not the whole story. Look carefully inside the cap and check the bus bar. It is not continuous. Honda in its wisdom broke this bar into sections. The solder job should match this exactly. If memory serves there were 4 altogether.

 

 

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9 hours ago, Furbird said:

I don't think we were clear, or if you watched the video or not, but you actually have to unplug the block and check the inside to verify there is no corrosion on that ground and power test connectors.  I'd be shocked on a 22 year old bike if it doesn't have some corrosion in it.  Not doubting you, just saying historically speaking that is very rare.

Also re-read the previous and it popped a 30 amp fuse which means you had a dead short in the ECM (or perhaps somewhere else in the wiring that also fried the ECM.)

Over the years I have added an additional battery to engine and battery to frame ground separate from the factory connections.  Just something I've always done as a carryover from my years in car audio installs because the factory stuff was always so lackluster.  If somebody has been in there digging around they may have left something unbolted and you may have missed it.  There's one ground right by the battery where the left tank bolt is (I believe that's right, off the top of my head) you might want to check and make sure that's there or not loose.

 

"Also re-read the previous and it popped a 30 amp fuse which means you had a dead short in the ECM (or perhaps somewhere else in the wiring that also fried the ECM.)"...................Agreed, dead short in the wiring probably as the ECM can only provide a ground at the end of the road. Trying to see how that could trip a fuse, especially a 30A fuse as the ECM wires are not designed to carry that much current.

 

"Over the years I have added an additional battery to engine and battery to frame ground separate from the factory connections. "....................On my machine I added 2 extra grounds, one from the one fat green wire during the loom fix and the second from the low beam ground wire 2" from the headlight. 

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10 hours ago, fizzy said:

"Over the years I have added an additional battery to engine and battery to frame ground separate from the factory connections. "....................On my machine I added 2 extra grounds, one from the one fat green wire during the loom fix and the second from the low beam ground wire 2" from the headlight. 


Good idea on the headlight if you're still running standard bulbs for sure.  I did it because I (like a lot of us) are running additional accessories as well (upgraded horns, heated gear, etc.) and it's not like any of us leave anything alone anymore.  But in the OP's case it was clear that somebody had been in there before so you might as well start with a known good connection instead of hoping all the factory stuff is there.

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Well I was able to get the harness buttoned back up today. Also found another harness issue after and was able to confirm that the bank angle sensor. (New one from used harness and old one were bad). “Hot” wired the bank angle sensor and confirmed voltage at the fuel pump. Also had 4 wires melted together in the right hand control harness. What’s crazy is it tested good continuity through kill switch circuit when on, and none when off. 

 

This bike had a broken nose faring support that was the original problem until I went and looked at it. For $300 and 40 man hours I’m not going to complain. 
 

After repairing sub harness and reconnecting everything it fired right up. Been sitting since 2020. 
 

As for the loom fix. It is immaculate. Both the negative and positive. The yellow is my ground block that is all interconnected as show in pictures. 
 
The green was my positive with 4 separate groups connected like Fizzy and Furbird said. 

B39CAC41-E9F4-465B-B1D7-924B84E6A5F5.jpeg

31E80206-9E38-4F11-8511-8CE34AF91509.jpeg

6E55A2EF-7DA0-42FA-8BAF-01672D67D63D.jpeg

5E453217-A759-47C7-9DA2-F5305FEC683A.jpeg

92D0468B-1BED-44E8-AC2D-2E998CA46368.jpeg

B4521430-63ED-4F5D-953C-6513DD6DD977.jpeg

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2 hours ago, Furbird said:

40 man hours at shop rate = totaled.  40 man hours at your time = helluva deal.

That must be low miles and lived inside to be that clean.  The connectors anyway.

yeah this is what I do everyday. I spent more hours with a multimeter in my hand then anything else with this bike. Checking and double checking. 
 

Was laid down at some point and shows it. Got it drivable, threw a battery in it and two new head lights. Popped both bulbs as soon as I went above idle. Showing 15.6 volts at idle….

guess I’ll need a regulator/rectifier too 

 

odometer shows 22k. Speedo isn’t working so not sure how accurate that is. Colorado bike so lives inside for 8 months a year. That coupled with how dry it is here. 

Edited by JJMills1993
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I already ordered the new regulator last night. If that one’s doesn’t work out for any reason I’ll give those a try

 

Hopefully there hasn’t been any more damage to the electrical system then just the two blown headlights. I need to start diagnosing the speedo and tach next. 

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It is good practice to connect the output from the R/R directly to the battery + and -.  Use an inline 30A fuse on the + side.  This eliminates the loom from this circuit. I am sure I don't have to explain why this is a good idea. 

Also, recommend to mount a small voltmeter to the dash, anything over 14.5V, head home at 1200rpm.

 

PS: Tape off the unused connector (when you wire direct to battery) and you are done.

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Mine failed high as well.  Same bike, the drag bike.  I posted on it somewhere on here, similar voltage as yours.  That bike was a former stunt bike, and it showed it.  The only thing left after I got done throwing things away was basically the frame and the engine.  Even the swingarm bearings at the pivot were seized.

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