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Finally.........the New Money Pit (a Garage for Topic Clarity)


rockmeupto125

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Some of you who might read the crap I post may remember the grief I've had with the borough about building a garage in my FEMA designated flood zone, and being limited to 200 square feet.

 

Come next week, council should ratify the coding amendment to allow up to a 24 wide and up to 24 long garage, 576 square feet, single story. So if you've got a 30 foot motor home you'd like to put in a 16x30 garage, you are SOL.  And if you'd like a second floor as I had planned to store parts, well...too bad.  Love your government.  Anyway, with time a wasting and decisions to be made or not made, I've elected to go with a metal building that will be assembled for me on site (notice how I went to great lengths not the use the word erected).

 

I can stick build, have air, a nailer, and a saw, but I can also appreciate my diminishing time and ability to do a lot of labor.  The cost of metal structure already built on site is about $2k more than the cost of the lumber alone.  There's pluses and minuses of metal vs wood, and one is the metal structure has more headroom for a lift.  I need 14 foot walls stickbuilt for the same headroom, and that's why the prices are so close.

 

I mentioned time and decisions.......there was a sale on the buildings but ending July 5th, so I needed to figure things out in a hurry.  I was able to wangle an additional 5% off because my neighbor across the street is in the exact same situation, and ordered a garage along with me, so we both got another 5% off the 10% off sale price.

 

So now I need a something to put this building on, and again in a hurry.  Neighbor says c'mon, we can do it ourselves.  Anyone here ever pour concrete?  I use to mix, and barrow, and float, and use a power trowel when I was in high school.  That was a long time ago.  No. Just no.  4 calls out to contractors, and finally one gets back to me yesterday and comes by for an estimate.  I had 3 prices in mind.......what I wanted, what I hoped for, and what I expected.  He came in a couple hundred dollars less than what I hoped for, so we're moving forward. He said they are out about three weeks.  He's going to pour the neighbor's as well because Jay admits he's no wizard with a bull float.  Jay already formed his up as it's where his current packed down driveway is, and he won't need extra stone, so his will be less than half of mine. They are also going to pour deeper for mine where the lift will go.

 

Now I need to figure out insulation, and lights.  Anybody got 500 ft of AWG4 aluminum for sale cheap?

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25 minutes ago, rockmeupto125 said:

Some of you who might read the crap I post

 

Who are you?

 

26 minutes ago, rockmeupto125 said:

And if you'd like a second floor as I had planned to store parts, well...too bad.

 

Look man, this makes sense, how the fuck else will the flood waters get to destroy your parts next time if they're up high?  But seriously, can you later sneak in a loft kind of thing, or maybe a Being John Malkovitch style "floor?"  One story, but max height?

 

Insulation...a neighbor recently did a small job with some super-duty "foam" panels with radiant barrier.  They are claimed to have much more R value by thickness, they go up as panels, and they say they won't allow/encourage moisture issues, rodents, etc.  I didn't validate any of this myself.  The guy who told me is very handy and capable, but also sometimes gullible.  I believe he said $40 per sheet in small quantities.  Anyway, think/research on that.

 

I've got Sam's Club LED lights in most of the shop area.  If I wasn't a Jew, I'd remove any older lights and buy more.  Love these things.  Three brightness levels to tune for space or task.  Winter smoking lounge can be 1, and lining up small parts is a 3.

 

Congrats on the space.  You'll really enjoy all the open areas and freedom for a few hours until you fill it with shit to trip over.

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There's an E26 based LED light with 4 adjustable panels that looks pretty neat. I thought I'd put them on 4 switched circuits, but adjustable brightness levels sounds interesting. 

 

I thought spray foam and found a couple companies that sell the product and rent the equipment for probably half of what it would cost to have it done....about $3500 instead of $7000.  But as I read more, I'm getting the idea that the panels may be a better choice.  Radiant blocking both sides of a closed cell sandwich.

 

I'm really trying to go as cheap as I can with this. If I was 40, I'd have a different attitude, but as it is, I'll probably only be able to use it for 10 years or so.  It's almost to the point of a foolish investment, but I'm in it now.

 

I figure 60 amps is adequate.  I need lights, realistic power for wall outlets, and 220 for the air compressor, welder, and lift, not at the same time.

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So a new version of "Lori's Husband."

 

Joe I did a 70A sub for my second garage, and it was just a marginal pain.  The "wire" for the main run is more like a tube, but from there, it was easier.  I was lucking that the panel to sub run is nearly straight and like 40 feet.  You may or may not be required to install AFCI and GFCI.  I did both for my own safety.  Just remember that plugging a MIG into an AFCI....well...predictable result.  Ask me how I know.

 

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1 hour ago, rockmeupto125 said:

And if you'd like a second floor as I had planned to store parts, well...too bad.

 

I need 14 foot walls stickbuilt for the same headroom

 

Anyone here ever pour concrete?

 

Anybody got 500 ft of AWG4 aluminum for sale cheap?


1) build a loft inside the building, on posts off to one side, and call it a shelf.  I built one for the corner of my shop and put engines/transmissions/press/sandblast cabinet under it and even hung the fat kid go-cart off the bottom of it.  On top is wheels/tires and all kinds of other stuff.

2) no you don't.  The pitch of the roof will clear the lift and the vehicle.  My front and rear walls are only 12 foot I believe and the roof slope was increased to give center height clearance for the lift.  I also have the tallest and widest lift on the market in the 10k capacity range.  I can lift my Astro to the roof rack and not hit anything and still walk under it.

3) FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DO NOT DO THIS.  Have your concrete guy get with the building guy and pour the foundation CORRECTLY.  YOU NEED FOOTERS NOT A FLAT SLAB.

4)  Please video the fire if you run a building 500 ft away from a power pole on AWG4 aluminum pulling 220 to run a shop with a lift, compressor, and lights.  I've never seen earth turn directly to liquid hot magma.  You are aware distance is your enemy, right?  It's going to take larger wire or you are seriously underestimating your peak power consumption (or not planning for future usage such as welding, air conditioning, etc.)  Buy once, cry once.

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I plan to build a loft, over the office which will be well heated, store liquids, and be used for bench work.

 

Standard trusses are currently available for $276 each.  6-8 weeks for gambrel trusses for about $5000 total.

 

I'm comfortable with the trenched perimeter pad and 12 inch reinforced concrete planned for under the lift.

 

I'll keep an eye on the 4 runs of wire 120 feet long.

 

Where did  you buy your lift?

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2 hours ago, XXitanium said:

@IcePrick what did you finally decide in your feeder? (Wring term btw - my bad)

 

Feeder, feeder... feeder?  I've been out of town for several weeks helping a friend frame a cabin in Colorado.  Seems I've erased some previously stored data.

 

But here's a blurry picture of a couple moose sniffing around my palace:

 

IMG_0765.thumb.jpeg.984633ea5db12da8b3e31b1ffa1da3c3.jpeg 

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6 hours ago, rockmeupto125 said:

I'm comfortable with the trenched perimeter pad and 12 inch reinforced concrete planned for under the lift.

 

I'll keep an eye on the 4 runs of wire 120 feet long.

 

Where did  you buy your lift?


1) Da fuk U liftin', a school bus? 4-4.5" of concrete will support a 10k lift.  You are pouring WAY more concrete than necessary for a lift.  Your concern should be the footers for the building supports, not the lift.  I had engineered drawings and pulled permits on my building.  Yes it cost more, but it added massive value to my property (way more than my investment).  My building is wind-rated to 140 or so (I'd have to check) and insulated.

2) That makes more sense.  I went overkill factoring on 100+ amps of service (as in killing the power pole) because I figure my inner Tim Allen is going to show up.

3) Mine came out of Mississippi from a Rotary/Forward dealer.  I have a Forward because (at the time) they had the last of the widest drive-through available.  Now Rotary got so many complaints from dealers they started offering that same drive-through again.  Do NOT buy a lift unless it is ANSI and ALI certified. 

 

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On 7/6/2022 at 6:58 AM, rockmeupto125 said:

And if you'd like a second floor as I had planned to store parts, well...too bad.

Go max height single story.  After inspection do what you gotta do.

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18 minutes ago, Furbird said:

Well if that's the case, then don't tell them you're wiring it either.  "It's a storage building."  Next time they show up it's a night club with stripper poles for an XX meeting.

 

Please have this completed by NeXXt.

 

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