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Fairing Stay


NoOne65
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Before I get a new one, anyone have a fairing stay? I can get cheep one on ebay for 40 buck or a new one for 100 but I wanted to check here first. On a related note anyone ever successfully got a broken mirror bolt out? This is my 2nd XX and the second time Ive broken ez outs trying to remove it!

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Extracting broken screws is a combination of art, science, tools, and luck.  I extract most of them before bringing the ez-out into play, left handed drill bits are quite helpful.  Drilling well centered so you can drill a large enough hole is important if the screw is stuck hard, the bigger the hole you make the thicker the ez-out will be which means it'll be harder to break.  Also, the bigger the hole is the more chance you have of the screw 'relaxing' and loosening its grip.  Heat and oil also help.  If it's stuck really hard and you drill very close to perfectly centered you can drill out to the point where all that's left is the thread portion of the screw and it'll pull out as a little coil.  In some cases I don't try too hard to get it out, just bore the bitch out and install a nut or heli-coil, or re-thread it larger and use a bigger screw.

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3 hours ago, SwampNut said:

Tap Magic oil is really magic for drilling, tapping, and extraction (which is kinda both).

 

 

Tap Magic changed my world for drilling and tapping (it makes that much of a  difference) but I never thought to use it for extraction.  

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I needed to make a 10.5 mm hole in a 1/4" or thicker plate the other day.  Good bit, and Tap Magic, and...magic.  So easy.  The bit was exceptional too, and I keep wondering what brand it is to get more.  Moriah bought it a decade ago, forgot where.  I still approach steel drilling and tapping with fear, but shouldn't.  Another hot tip on tapping...using my right-angle battery drill changed everything.  It can spin slow enough, and gives you the ability to stay straight while apply straight pressure.  Regular gun drills always push sideways.  I wish someone made a gun drill that works like a Chiappa revolver, rather than having the bit off center.

 

Seeing that extraction is drilling and sorta tapping, I gave it a shot when I had an extraction problem, and it worked great.

 

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Plus 1 on left-handed drill bits.  Usually start drilling, and they back right out from the vibration and light turning force.

I'm guessing the bolt rusted into the fairing stay?  They are supposed to be zinc-plated, but I guess that can wear off.  Is the bolt broke, or just the Allen head is FUBAR'd?

If it is rusted in there, a new/used fairing stay might be a lot less work.

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On 4/23/2022 at 1:39 PM, SwampNut said:

Good bit, and Tap Magic, and...magic.

A few YT machinists I respect say that lubing a drill bit for the average DIY guy is a waste, but I still do it most of the time.

 

On 4/23/2022 at 1:39 PM, SwampNut said:

I still approach steel drilling and tapping with fear, but shouldn't.

A key thing to watch for is chips.  Powder is bad, long curls are bad, dark discolored anything is bad.  Curls are too much pressure/not enough speed, powder is the opposite.  With metals that work harden, like stainless, I've found that leaning towards excessive pressure seems to get the bit through before the hardening happens.  With soft metals a super sharp bit can be problematic, that's where a cheapo or worn bit can be a bonus.

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13 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

A few YT machinists I respect

 

I now respect them just slightly less.  Using TM, I can 99% achieve everything else you said.  Without...maybe sometimes.  It can also be the difference between the hole exit being clean and not catching, versus welding itself to the bit and ripping a thumbnail clean off.  Oh yeah, always DOUBLE clamp your work.

 

 

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