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Bike restoration talk - 1972 R5 350


SwampNut

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I hope to really get into this before summer, but not sure where to start.  So that's question one.  I am 50/50 on just tearing it completely apart, which will eventually happen, or choosing areas to start.  Such as starting off with the tail and headlight area, which are the most accessible/easy, work on them, and then continue.  I guess I kinda lean towards that.  I can work with some of the smaller parts to learn processes.

 

Chrome is fucked up by rust.  I've cleaned up lots of lightly pitted metals, this is more.  So again not sure where I'd start with that part.  Sandblasting with light media like walnut or corn?  For small parts, use the ammo tumbler which has corn cob (I think) media?  Any chemicals or other things to use?

 

Electrical is oddly 100%, turn signals work, all that.

 

Motor has compression, clicks through gears.  I don't think I want to split the cases.  I do think I want to pull the top end and do rings.  Do I?  Just such a standard move with two-strokes.  But...compression feels normal-ish, working from very old memory of these bikes.

 

Spark plugs are fucked.  What should I clean them in?  Just kidding.

 

Tires...haven't googled it yet.

 

Brakes are probably alright, but thoughts on that appreciated.

 

OEM battery is on the restorer now, should be fine.  I kid, I kid.

 

The seat is remarkably fine.  I'm thinking about putting vinyl protectant on it and bag it for storage until I'm done.  I'd really like to restore the lettering on it, but have no idea how I would.

 

Handlebars...replace?  It seems like something that should be fairly generic to find others that fit the look?  Oh yeah--my goal is "believable" not perfect restoration.  Period appropriate but not even necessarily only parts from this one model.

 

Bolts...into the tumbler?

 

 

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For mobility as parts come off, I'm thinking about building a wood cart to hold the center stand, and a rod up to the steering area or the frame just forward of the engine.  I have lots of wood and woodworking tools, as well as a bunch of quite heavy duty casters in various sizes.  (Originally for tools weighing more than the bike probably.)

 

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You have a lot of work ahead of you.  I have not ever had to restore chrome, but I think I would take all the parts to a place that could re-chrome them.  Not sure how much that costs, but probably too much for what you are trying to do.  Have you checked the fuel tank for rust?

You may want to split the cases just enough to re-seal them.  Also, the oil injection system on those was a weak point.  If it fouls plugs a lot, it's likely over-oiling.  I believe you can pitch the oiler, and pre-mix the fuel, but you should consult a 2-stroke specific forum before doing so.

Edited by jon haney
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Tank is shockingly clean.  The chrome thing is something to investigate, its one of those things that I can't guess whether it would be $50 or $2000.  I do have some familiarity with the oilers, and having to just go premix.  I haven't decided on that yet, but it will get a thorough test.

 

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I'd get it running and put a few miles on it.  Partly to decide if you want it which may change the course of restoration, but also to know that it runs and shifts well and doesn't leak which will dictate what you do with the engine.

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Trust me when I tell you... as I have restored an old bike.  They are absolutely MISERABLE to actually ride.

 

Even my brandy new 2013 Thruxton cafe racer was miserable to ride.  But... it was perfect to ride to the cafe' to hang with the boys.

 

 

2012 Triumph.jpg

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10 hours ago, jon haney said:

  If it fouls plugs a lot, it's likely over-oiling.  I believe you can pitch the oiler, and pre-mix the fuel, but you should consult a 2-stroke specific forum before doing so.

Or the crank seals are gone due to age or excessive crankshaft end play. I'd check that before splitting the cases. Vaccum check the lower end for leaks.

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11 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

I'd get it running and put a few miles on it.  Partly to decide if you want it which may change the course of restoration, but also to know that it runs and shifts well and doesn't leak which will dictate what you do with the engine.

Yes that happened to me.  I wanted a CL-350 for a while and got a pretty nice one.  I made it even nicer but realized I didn't want it.  Sold it to a guy that had 6 of them.

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9 hours ago, XXitanium said:

Valve stem seals

 

Bah, they have to be good, DON'T TRY TO UPSELL ME.  But yeah, great point.

 

Now to decide how to go about the engine running.  I think carb cleaning, gaskets, and rubber boots on both ends are the only real must haves.

 

See though, then I think...the brakes.  But now the wheels are apart, and...

 

Remember that this started with a loose mirror.

 

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19 minutes ago, SwampNut said:

Now to decide how to go about the engine running.  I think carb cleaning, gaskets, and rubber boots on both ends are the only real must haves.

And probably fixing the stripped spark plug hole, but it'll hold up to mild pressure if you can refrain from getting on it.....so must repair plug hole.  Actually, a little high temp loctite would probably do for now.  I might just do about half the threads toward the top so it's not too big of a bitch to get out for the proper repair.  Hmmm, a spritz of dry lube or something else on the plug should help at removal time, never had a reason to try that.  Maybe some of that moly paste thoroughly rubbed in with the excess removed.

 

You can probably clean out the jets without carb removal so you don't have to mess with the boots, I don't remember how close they are to the case.  Rotating them will help, if there's room.  The bowls probably won't re-seal without new gaskets, but it'll just be a small amount that dribbles.  Some Permatex Aviation Sealant, I think they've changed the name, will probably take care of it.  A little alcohol will take it all off if you decide to do it right later.  If the boots come off without destruction you could soak them in that oil that rejuvenates them (wintergreen oil?)

 

And make sure the case has oil, I think it wasn't reading on the stick.

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The boots might be salvageable, but remember that the carb to airbox boot was just crumbles.

 

The more I think about half-assed fast fixes, the less I want to do this half-assed, honestly.

 

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Nice find! Best off cleaning it up best you can and keep it unrestored as it looks very original. Other than that, dig in deep and rechrome everything. Japanese chrome was shitty in the 70's.

 Here is my '77 rd400. a lot of fun around town. So many people want to talk about them. I always wanted one in Highschool. After getting one and owning a Blackbird I just shake my head. Oh the 70's.

IMG_0573.JPG

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22 hours ago, DBLXX said:

Trust me when I tell you... as I have restored an old bike.  They are absolutely MISERABLE to actually ride.

 

 

 

 

Could not agree even more. It was not bike, car. I remember when I took Alfa Romeo Spider for spin. Not recent model, the one from 70`s. It was miserable experience, extremely buzzy no power engine, even small bump would bent body into banana, etc.

 

I`m not nostalgic guy, but I could see getting older bike that is in some way unique, like turbo bike, rotary Suzuki, inline 6 Honda, things of that nature. 

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On 2/4/2022 at 4:27 PM, XXitanium said:

GPZ, CX650 Turbo, and Suzuki Rotary interest me as well.

 

I have owned two CX650s over the years at different times over the years. Lusted after the idea of finding a CX650 Turbo. Oddly, the CX650 felt very cramped and I am not tall at 5'09".

 

Nice find with the Yamaha. I might buy some Never Dull wading cloth and work on a corner of a fender. I used it to bring back rusted wheels on a 1986 CT110.  Although yours looks pretty rough. Doing a Re-Chrome plating is no where near the $50 end of the spectrum you threw out. I looked into it once...

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Funny how the things you thought would always be around just vanished.

 

GPZ's all got getto'd.

CX650T's .......well, they really only made about 100 of them and they were passed around. CX500T are out there for stupid money, each and every one of them needs the engine pulled for a stator.

Suzuki Rotaries got so cool they aren't cool anymore.

 

I still have a Honda 350 to get to.

 

Okay, three 350's and a 400, but who's counting...

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8 hours ago, TOXXIC said:

I might buy some Never Dull wading cloth and work on a corner of a fender.

 

I have some, pretty magical.  The rust spots are 3D though, meaning you can feel them.  I *think* that stuff will not fix that?  Do you know?  I guess it's worth a try, can't make it worse.

 

I loved my CX500, Vetter fairing, and some famous bags that now I can't remember the name of.

 

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