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Best way to delink


silverbird1100
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50 minutes ago, silverbird1100 said:

I like my linked brakes but when my lines need replaced or the rear wheel is dragging I'm not interested in replacing all that plumbing and I'm sure bleeding it is a nightmare.

 

Jaws makes a kit, but are new master's necessary?  

No need to change masters.

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Linked brakes bother me because they're doing stuff I'm not asking for, but the shit works so I'm ok with my linked brakes.

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OK, so maybe I jumped the gun.  Keep them linked, because I like them linked.  If I were to install speed bleeders and replaces the rubber hoses, what would the bleeding procedure be like? I've tries a vacuum pump (per manual) and didn't like it at all, one of the reason I wanted to de-link. But I forgot about speed bleeders until now. 

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I just used a pump, and it was a pretty decent one.  Not sure what problem you're having with it.  I only bled them once I think.  When Galfer used my bike to model their lines on, they used a big electric pump that made fast work of it.

 

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3 hours ago, silverbird1100 said:

OK, so maybe I jumped the gun.  Keep them linked, because I like them linked.  If I were to install speed bleeders and replaces the rubber hoses, what would the bleeding procedure be like? I've tries a vacuum pump (per manual) and didn't like it at all, one of the reason I wanted to de-link. But I forgot about speed bleeders until now. 

I've never used speed bleeders and not sure if I've ever bled a linked Bird.  My usual for bleeding is gravity, sometimes I'll use a vacuum pump.

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2 hours ago, silverbird1100 said:

Doesn't the complexity of the system require more than gravity? 

Probably not.  If there's air in the system maybe, but for just changing the fluid it shouldn't matter.

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Assuming the SMC is fed from the rear master, before disassembly use something to hold the brake pedal part way down.  This will keep the master and line from draining.  Something else you can do before opening lines is to pump the SMC pushing the caliper piston out, but not all the way out of the caliper of course.  This will give you a reserve of fluid in the caliper that you might be able to use to back-bleed the SMC by squeezing the piston in.  Just some thoughts, I've never opened the system and don't know exactly how it works.

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On 1/17/2022 at 10:02 AM, SwampNut said:

One of the things I really hated about my last XX is that it was delinked.  Nothing about it felt right.

 

Probably because it wasn't self-driving.

😆

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On 1/17/2022 at 12:08 PM, silverbird1100 said:

OK, so maybe I jumped the gun.  Keep them linked, because I like them linked.  If I were to install speed bleeders and replaces the rubber hoses, what would the bleeding procedure be like? I've tries a vacuum pump (per manual) and didn't like it at all, one of the reason I wanted to de-link. But I forgot about speed bleeders until now. 

Bleeding isn't a big deal, just follow the manual as to which order to bleed and use the lever and pedal.  I sometimes start with the Mity-Vac then switch to just the lever.  Don't over think it.

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  • 1 month later...
On 1/19/2022 at 7:04 AM, blackhawkxx said:

Bleeding isn't a big deal, just follow the manual as to which order to bleed and use the lever and pedal.  I sometimes start with the Mity-Vac then switch to just the lever.  Don't over think it.

I recently bled my ST1300, which wasn't bad. For the ST, you need to have the SMC at 0-15 degrees from horizontal. I'm wondering why the Blackbird SMC can stay vertical. 

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