Carson

I just replaced the stator on my bike. Headlight went out. Few hours later, tried to start the bike no go. Couple buddies pushed it and it started. Lasted about 2 miles and died. First time a Honda (nine of them!) ever quit because of a malfunction. Discovered that the connector between the rectifier/regulator and the alternator was almost completely melted. Measured voltage across the battery with engine running and it was less than 12 Volts. I suggest you pull the stator then remove the support and protection bracket covering the wiring harness inside the casing. When I removed that bracket, the wire harness separated. The wire underneath the bracket was powdered! I now believe that some mods I made may be responsible for the problem. I have a custom undertail and rear hugger. The undertail does allow moisture into the seat and body cover. I am sure that wouldn't be my fault! I believe the connector was building up resistance over time. I had been in a light rain about 2 weeks prior and a real heavy rain a couple of time in the past 2 months. I checked the regulator and could not find any evidence of heating or other problem although I am not sure that I would be able to tell by a visual inspection. So, I ordered a stator and just finished installing it. Now getting 13.7 volts across the battery. I am plan on soldering the rectifier/regulator wires to the new stator/alternator wires. So, either I was responsible for the connector problem or I actually had a Honda part fail. Again, I am certain I wouldn't cause a problem. Pretty certain I created the monster. One other note, none of my fuses were burned out. Didn't have to replace any of them. Anyway, your situation may be different. Use this information at your own risk. Drive offensively so the cages see you.

After looking at the picture, I have installed this undertail and it was a bitch. The instructions I got were useless. I spent at least 10 - 15 hours installing the undertail. Had to trim the crap out the existing undertray. Having to cut all the tail light and turn signal wires is a real treat. I spent at least another 8 hours total over 3 or 4 different times redoing the electrical, trying different connectors, etc. I did find that my Pyramid rear hugger slammed into the undertail about 8 inches back from the front of the undertail (battery end) so I cut of that portion of the undertail off. I plan to reattach that piece on top of the remaining undertail. The tail section isn't as water proof as the stock system. Found moisture accumulating in the ECM connectors which explained why my bike wouldn't start one day for about 30 minutes. I eventually wiggled the wiring enough and it started. That is when I checked the whole tail section and found the moisture. I wrapped the connectors with newer type electrial tape that waterproofs or seals out moisture much better than the thin electrial tape. Also, the clips they provide to attach the undertail suck! I used some from Lowes that were a little bit bigger than the supplied clips. The license plate light was also a bitch...Still can't find replacement bulbs for the turn signals. A 194 bulb fits but it doesn't draw the same amout of watts and it burns up...So far, none of the bulbs have burned out but I did want to have a spare just in case. If you still need some pictures let me know but I will be out of town all next week. I like the looks of it now but it was a bitch to install! I wouldn't do it again... I would pay someone to do it. I just installed HID upgrade for what the undertail cost. The HID lights are amazing. I would upgrade to HID before I would install the undertail. Just my opinion. Good luck! Rick Morris

I am looking at the Haynes manual electrical on 2001-2002 XX. Shows three wires out of TPS. Two wires go to the MAP and the other wire goes to the ECM. 1. Yellow-Red or Yellow-Pink goes to same colored wire coming out of the MAP. 2. Green-Gold or Green-Yellow goes into the MAP. 3. Red-Yellow goes to ECM Not sure if you mean Black-White or Blue-White when you mentioned the dyno shop. Black-White 1. Black-White out of ECM goes to the PAIR control value 2. If your bike is a California model, the second Black-White goes to the EVAP purge control valve. Blue-White Blue-White goes to the FI Indicator light. Hope this helps!

I have 2002 XX with the Blue Flame Dual Ports Titanium Painted. I had a lot of trouble with the lefthand midpipe. First one was not flared properly so it took a couple of hours to fit the end that attached to the header. Called the company I ordered from, Rider Performance Motorcycles. They said they would order another one. Six weeks later no replacement. I called them & they said they lost my order info! (Nice $850 order & they lose the info?). Finally got the replacement. No problem with the flare but the bracket that is welded on the midpipe is too far forward by about 4 mm. So I dremeled (ground out) the hole for the bolt & was able to fit it. Next problem was the left side can was almost 3/4" higher than the right side can. After several attempts at trying to level both sides it appears that the left midpipe bracket (yes the same damn bracket!) is angled away from the bolt hole which caused the midpipe to turn up a little bit. I was able to adjust with washers but what a pain!! I wasn't impressed with the general attitude of Riders Performance Motorcycles either. Anyway, I would say the pipes sound great but they are pretty loud. I would guess at least an 8 on a 1 to 10 scale. I also have a power commander which is just running the stock map. It appears that it is running a little rich just by looking at the exhaust outlets. I don't believe my gas mileage has changed much. Based on feel only, the bike responds more quickly to the throttle and just hauls ass through the RPM's. I hope to get a dyno done soon. I would probably order them again but I would get the plain titanium although I have had compliments on the painted cans...