knight

I need to know the resistance across the pink and black wires that come from the top of the gear box sensor, its the sensor that tells the speedo how fast your bike is going......the reason being is that I'm installing a "Datatool-digi" gear indicator to my engine - now installed into a kit-car withouth the B.Bird speedo gauge......and its causing me problems!......if someone could tell me the resistance accross the pink and black wires, while the loom is connected, ideally when the engine is off then running at idle.......then I can install a resistor on my engine......because at the moment the Digi indicator wont work properly and I'm told its due to me not using the Bird speedo.......your help much appreciated!

"If I remember correctly, Knight uses his bird motor to power a race car. The rules prohibit modifications, so he is trying to find a way to get a little more competitive without being caught" you know me to well!!!!.......degreeing in the cams and increasing the rev limit sounds the way to go......would be great to find someone that can hack the standard ECU.......your help much appreciated

I have a 98 carbed B.bird engine.....I'm interested to know if any of you know if its possible to increase the rev limiter by another 1000RPM using the standard ECU....either modified, or with an electronic add-on gizmo?.....I'm not interested in junking the standard ECU, as in the race series I run they stipulate that I must use the standard ECU......Ideally I'm looking for some electronics boffin who can re-program the ECU.....does anyone provide such a service?.....

......a big Homer Simpson "DOWH" required me thinks!...... :roll:

Thanks Mick - yes mine is being raced in a car too!....a single seater in the Monoposto 1200 and 750 Motor Club F4 series......what you got yours in - some sort of Caterham 7 type of thing?.....have dou done any engine mods worth talking about?....dont suppose you run a dry sump do you?.....thanks for the notes on the clutch, from what you say i will just carry on with the up-rated springs and see how it goes :wink:

The discs were OK...certainly not blue!....I run a 50 grade fully synthetic oil from Silkolene/Fuchs which is a bike race oil, so it caters for the wet clutch scenario......am still interested to hear from anyone who has knowledge of the EBC B.Bird clutches?????... :sad:

since posting my original message I have taken the clutch apart and the oil level sits about 2 inches below the clutch so I now think its not worth doing, I originally thought the clutch was slightly dipped in the sump oil, if that was the case then it would rob the engine of around 3Bhp......but as I said that aint the case in the standard bird! :wink:

In my last race of the season in 2003 I had clutch slip under hard acceleration, I use a standard clutch and springs, I have just taken it apart to measere the service limits, which are 3.8mm for the Clutch disc and 1.9mm for the clutch plate, which are well within the service limits specified in the Honda manual, I have just fitted some uprated springs which are about 5mm longer than standard, so I'm assuming will give that extra bit of bite (but not yet tested)......but what I'm wondering is......do I need to fit an EBC clutch kit?......when I read about them in the catalogue, they did plenty of fancy "race clutches" for the R1's, GSXR's etc.....but the one they offer for the B.Bird is just a replacement for the stock item......dosent seem worth doing to me?.....or have any of you guys used them and noticed a big improvement?.....I would be interested to hear! :wink:

has anyone heard of a dry clutch conversion for the B.Bird - I saw one for the first time the otherday on the Mototune website during a "works" engine strip down, its basically a carbon fibre wall that seperates the back of the clutch from the oil - dead simple.....

yup - had already sent pete a note before I had posted this note.....now I know why he aint yet replied!.....will wait when he comes back

A friend of mine has a bored out B.bird to 1200cc, with a gas flowed head, performance cams, lightened crank, race exhaust - basically full race etc...... and is hoping for 175Bhp at th rear wheel......He wants to know what sort of jet sizes and needle positions he will need for the carbs - can any of you guys give some usefull advice?......will be much appreciated!........I'm sure this has been done many times before

I am looking into modifying my standard cam sprockets in order to change the cam timing on the exhaust cam from 105 to 101 degrees, so I need to add a 4 degree slot......I have access to a vertical mill with a rotary base.....but I'm told the sprockets are hardened and must be ground?......is this true or will conventional machine tools be able to cope with milling the honda sprockets........and before someone says it......yes I know slotted cam wheels are available off the shelf....... I cant use them as they are blatantly not standard......which is a no-go for my race series also if someone has a pair of cam sprockets from a 98 carbed B.Bird that they want to part with - please let me know :wink:

Thanks for the info guys, I found that a race plug for the 1100XX in the NGK catalogue is rated as a 10 in the heat range, the standard one is rated at 9, the higher the number the colder the plug, so this runs true with what you say.....which is also handy as the plug that i have been reccomended to run which is 1mm longer is also a 10....what luck! with the cam timing if i set at 101/101..... will the valve to Piston clearance be OK? or would i need to have the pockets machined deeper? as for the 630 chain....yeah I heard about that stuff, sounds awsome, I ran a standard B.Bird chain for last season - about 4 test sessions and 2 races, I knew i was pushing my luck so, am gonna change it for the new TSUBAKI gold jobbie I bought. thanks for the help, any more ideas please let me know :wink:

yes the cam timing is of great interest to me, I have heard of it before but I dont know specific settings to set the cams to?.....do you know what they are?......4-6bhp yes please!!!!!.....as for the PAIR mod - this is the link to the crank case vent mod......yes I am in the process of doing this.....problem is that the UK spec bikes dont have the PAIR reed valve assys in the cam cover......so I'm looking at fitting a US spec cam cover or head depending what i get hold of......as for crank polishing, light flywheels, nope - not allowed, and those mods only improve engine response - not max bhp!!!!.....as for a light chain.....I need the best 530 chain available to man kind .....I just bought an expensive heavy duty Gold item.......as my race car and me weigh 460Kg!!!!!!......no place for girl chains

I'm of the school of thought that a lot of little ones make one big one :wink: - so far I have converted the carbs to ram-air, dyno-jetted them, replaced the water pump with an electric item, using special thin shell race oil (5W-20), full race stainles exhaust..... and if it works do the longer spark plug thing......reason being my engine is installed in a race car, and the rules forbid internal mods......I'm pushing for 150Bhp at the rear wheel without internal motor modification, and the spark plug thing will certainly help the cause!!!!!......but like you say, so will having a dump! :grin: .........thanks for the tip!