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    Manchester, NJ
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    Motorcycles - 'nuff said
  1. I am not too partial to the clear pads. Thank you anyway! I would prefer a plain black pad - if I can find the right one........... :?:
  2. Let me add this: You said you were NOT looking for peak h/p - only to spot potential problems before they start!?!? That is not the purpose of a dyno. If you are mearly looking to see if the bike is in A-1 running shape; save yourself about $200.00 and see your local HONDA service dept. Have the service manager take a look, possibly ride the bike - and ask his opinion on the bikes condition & performance compared to simular bikes of the same year & mileage. The dyno might be ablee to alert you of a bad plug, clogged air filter, but most guys replace tham before dyno tuning anyway. The dyno isn't going to alert you to a streached chain, sloppy cam chain tensioner, worn sprockets, ect. If all you want / need is advise on operating condition - follow the suggested service intervals in your operators manual - you will be fine! Good Luck!
  3. I would wait - at least till you have 2000 miles on the bike to be safe. On the dyno - the bike runs VERY hot, most quality dynos have cooling fans, which optumilly could be used to force air into the ram air ducts for a more precise h/p at a specific speed / rpm. it is very important that the shop you choose takes off "both" engine side panels, and uses at least one large (or two small) fans to cool the bike while doing the runs. Remember - a GOOD - QUALITY dyno shop will run your bike on the following schedule: 10% throttle 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100% Then back to 5% and even 2.5% - if the guys is REALLY good. That's at least 11 runs up to redline inside a closed room. You would shit if you knew exactly how hot you bike gets; so do you want to rush into it before all wear parts (rings, bearings, valves, ect.) are FULLY seated and broken in? Besides - like Nortman said - at 5K you'll get a better dyno reading with the engine being a little "looser". Be patient - all good things will come............ Good Luck!
  4. That would be perfect - if it didn't say "HONDA" I want one to put on my ZRX - so saying HONDA would look silly; but that is the type I'm looking for. Thank you for the suggestion!
  5. Can anyone recomend a GOOD stick on (not magnetic) tank pad that is universal, Black (not the usual carbonfiber look) and not too large? I usally use "PRO GRIP" - but lately I cannot find them in solid black. Almost all sport bike pads are carbonfiber look, and I just want to get away from that look. Any suggestions would be welcome......................... :?:
  6. Seems to me that I read a thread on this forum a while back regarding the use of silicone based fluids with the stock seals. Is the 5.1 silicone like the 5.0; or have modifications been done to allow for use in the stock system?
  7. I have them on my bike - but I wouldn't recomend them any longer due to the fact that they turn a whiteish/gray color due to heat. They look great when 1st installed, but will turb soon enough! Possible alternative: Lightly sand scratches & have powder coated - possibly black (if not already). Good Luck!
  8. I nominate Dave - DBLXX Uh - Sorry! I thought you said Rectum fryer............. :wink:
  9. Possible that the change from low mount to high has cahnged the power band and fell the bike "come on the pipe" at a different rpm. I would strongly suggest going to a power commander -II with the Mig set-up. You will notice the difference right away! My bike dyno'd @ 148 h/p with the Mig "high mount" set-up.
  10. mthelen, What type pipes you running? If your using High mount Migs, you'll need to notch out the undertail for clearence for the hanger brackets for the cans. Keep this in mind prior to painting the undertail! Good Luck!
  11. The key question here is "which Mig set-up"? Both the Migs & the D&D's are pass through cans, very little packpressure generated from the cans alone. Now - do you have the slip-ons with the low style pipes (like stock), or the "high mount" style? The "high mount" pipes generate more back pressure the the head because of the bends in the mid pipe, When changing cans (especially with mid pipes) to a style different than the previous style, I suggest you retune for better performance. You should get noticable performance gain with the "high mount" vs. stock Low mount style..........
  12. Powerbronze make very good quality products (I.M.O.) but like any plastic product, there can be a defect. Perhaps you could measure across the bottom of the hugger and contact the dealer you purchased it from to verify fitment to your year & model.
  13. Did you talk to Joe Rock about this? If the center hub opening was too small, you have a later model similar to the 2000 model - I sold a set of straight (gold hub) rotors from a 2000 to Joe a couple a months ago - he may still have 'em - I know that set was straight. Varify my measuring the hub o.d. & rotor i.d. prior to purchase. Good Luck!
  14. The last thing I think I want iluminated is my lic. plate........ :wink:
  15. The stock color is Titanium - for what that's worth. Now - as for the retro fit; if you did find that it fits, you still would have a titanium colored alt. cover - another thing to change. Possible solution - Krylon has a new "high heat" paint that is the mac daddy of spray paints - a child could spray this stuff and get a great finish. Why not just paint both covers for the price of a couple of cans of paint & two engine gaskets? Then both sides will match - I prefer "flat black" to offset against the shiny paint; but that's only my opinion. Anyway - good luck with whatever you do.........
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