XXera

If you still want to get rid of your Garmin, I'd give you $100.00 shipped for it.

Is this the thread you were looking for? cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=53662&hl

I might be interested in the fairing stay and headlight. How much do you want for it?

I'll take the Draggin jeans and short gloves.

Is the price still negotiable?

Do you still have all the necessary mounting hardware to go with them, like the bolts, spacers, washers, nuts, and bottom L braces? How about the keys also?

Since I don't have my old cap, I can't say for sure, but I would bet you are correct. These pictures might help you out a little bit.

The cap to the connector with the wires in it determines how your wires are grouped together. If you will look in the base of the cap at the spade connectors, you will notice that some are tied together, then there is a break in the electrical connection. That is how you decide how your wires are grouped together. I replaced mine and it had 18 wires in it also, but I guess I threw it away or I would take a better picture for you.

Thanks for the information. I decided to go ahead and order an OEM stator from Service Honda. If the new one will last as long as the original, that will be good enough for me. Besides, I won't be hitting the rev limiter at the track anymore with Jay. What's going on, Jay. How's the weather down there?

Has anybody bought a Ricks stator lately for a FI Blackbird, and if so, did you have to modify the insulator grommets, wiring leads, or connectors to get it installed? I have a 2000 Blackbird that appears to have a bad stator and was thinking about a Ricks versus an OEM Honda. Thanks for any help.

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Which ones do you like better, Dale, the Roads or Avons??

Demon, if the road is still wet, and those tires aren’t broken in, be very careful! It was raining here when I tried out my new 45/46’s and I had some major traction problems until they got scrubbed in. The regular wet asphalt wasn’t that bad, but when I crossed a large patched area, it was like riding on ice!! They’re very slick when they are new and wet. :shock: Good luck.

I was just wondering if anybody else is using this method to determine their tire pressures.

I have repaired some fairly long cracks (12-15 inches) to small support eyelets with glue made by VersaChem. It's called Plastic Welding System and bonds to ABS plastic. It sets in 15 minutes or less, depending on the temperature. The cracks I've repaired have held well over a year now without coming loose. This stuff has fixed more things around the house than anything else I have ever tried. You can get the glue at NAPA, O'Riley, or AutoZone for around 4 to 5 bucks. You should try this stuff if you can. You won't believe how good it works.

Don't want to hijack the thread, so I agree, use red cap Mobil 1. Scot, I haven’t ridden near enough this year. It just seems like I’ve been too busy. I plan to participate in a 1000 mile “Baby Butt” even next month to get that certificate. :roll: Now people are starting to talk about Laguna Seca and my mouth is starting to water. Hopefully things will calm down and I can start riding.

What's going on Scot? I'm the guy that took Precious to Cody. What's the matter? Has she been complaining about it??

I've got one if you still want to try to make it to the Mega. Let me know something.

Come on, give the a break. They just look like a few typo's to me........ especially if you don't proof read. :oops:

Here we go again. This was copied from an Amsoil website. They seem to think RP has Moly in it:

Scot, if you are still having problems with your neutral light, before you do anything drastic, why don't you try squirting some cleaner in your ignition switch. That supplies a negative to a clutch diode that turns on the neutral light. If the switch has something it, it could be providing just enough of a ground to be turning that diode on and off. It's a long shot, but easy. Good luck.

Here's a picture of my front after about 6,600 miles. It still has about 3mm of tread left in the center.

Nope!! :naughty:

I have Z rated tires also, but at the end of that designation there is another indicator in parenthesis that gives the load index and speed rating of the tire. Mine looks like this: 120/70ZR17 m/c (58W). Doesn't this indicate the max. speed is the W rating instead of the Z rating?