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jimmystartup

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Everything posted by jimmystartup

  1. I'm about to sell my '97. It's been a daily commuter, 46,xxx miles but still runs great.
  2. I bought the wrong damn set and these have been sitting in my study for three months. Too late to send them back so the first one to PM me gets them. You just need to pay shipping, how does $8 sound for Priority USPS or I can ship them with your online form or shipping account. This is kit 22-51379 for 99-06 birds.
  3. According to the troubleshoot document I was using, the three leads from the Stator need to be over 50Volts and consistently the same - they did not give an upper range. Yes, I was getting 69 Volts from each lead. Someone pitch in if that is too high.
  4. Thanks for the replies guys. I broke out the voltmeter and you were dead on, at idle the charge was 15V but spiked up to 19V with higher RPM. I removed the R/R and tested the three leads coming off the stator, a consistent 69V out of each at 500RPM. According to what I've read it seems the problem is the R/R. I have an R1 part on there and guess I'll find another. Thanks, Peter
  5. I've done some searching but haven't found any threads on this particular issue. Over the past year my Bird has killed two batteries and just yesterday I purchased a third. They seem to die slowly over a period of months by simply getting weaker and weaker until they no longer will turn the bike over. As soon as they seem a bit weak I've put them on a trickle charger overnight with no luck. When finally dead they are a bit "swollen" upon removal but I can't seem to track down the problem. The two batteries I killed were Yuasa YTX12BS There are no electrical leaks when the bike is turned off and when running the bike is charging at 15 Volts. I have NOT installed a voltmeter to see what is happening at different RPM's and figure that is probably a good place to start. Replaced the RR with one from an R1 about three years ago. Bike is a 1997 with 46,000 miles. I commute on it daily approximately 8 miles each way. Any ideas? Thanks, Peter
  6. Back in 2005 I participated in the Spiegler group buy and never installed the lines. I was just too damn busy, sue me. Last week I decided to strip the bike down for some major service/cleaning and figured it was time to put these lines on. Trouble is, the package doesn't seem to come with any sort of installation instructions showing what the labels on each line correspond to for the OEM lines. I found a thread posted by Warchild about the install but the links to the photos don't work anymore. There is a reference to a manual, does anyone have one or know where I can get one? I mostly need help knowing which lines go where, as they are different enough from the OEM lines that I can't match them up exactly. Thanks in advance. Peter
  7. So far I've had a couple of test drivers and one kid who wanted to low ball me. It'll sell, I just need to be patient.
  8. I'm selling this car to hopefully get something a bit bigger. This thing is a blast to drive but with two kids and a big dog it just sits in the garage most of the time. Here are the specs: 2005 Mazda 3 Hatchback 5-door wagon under 33,000 miles White with black interior 4 Speed Automatic Transmission with Sport Shirt AM/FM Stereo in-dash CD Cruise control, intermittent wipers, steering wheel controls 17" Aluminum Wheels Air Conditioning, power windows, power mirrors, power locks, alarm New set of Alpine Premier tire chains for those troublesome Seattle snow storms Like I said, this car has been living in a garage out of the elements and is in near perfect condition. I'm asking $12,500 but will listen to offers. This is in the Seattle area. Here are some pictures.
  9. Aw shit. Hey Joe, you want to sell it back to me for the same price?
  10. Oh I have the map, the challenge I had is using it. There is a license issue I just can't seem to get around.
  11. After reading the great reviews of the Mio310X Digiwalker I went out and bought one. I really like this thing but it has dawned on me that I never use it, and when I do want one, I'm up in Canada where this does not work. Mio keeps saying Canadian maps are pending but I don't want to wait. If you want one of these, barely used and shipped in the original box let me know. $100 plus shipping and it is yours OK, it's gone now. :icon_snooty:
  12. UPDATE - The Heet didn't do a damn thing so I unbolted the gas tank and, low an behold, the vacuum line had fallen off. Fuck, a flashlight and the tool kit would have saved me $96. Once I reconnected the tube it fired up and ran perfectly. Hindsight is 20/20.
  13. Did you tell them that you are a special rider? Sorry, I couldn't help myself. I knew I was going to hear that one, even my Father in Law said it. First of all, thanks for all of the replies, you guys have helped point me in the right direction. Tonight I'll dig in after work. :icon_clap: Someone who rides here regularly told me to try a can of Heet in case I just picked up some water. It is a problem around here this time of year. I think I'll do that first before taking the tank off. The tow cost me $96 to my garage, I'll check out the AMA program and I guess I should call State Farm and see what they would charge to add it to my policy.
  14. Thanks. Any idea where I can see a diagram that shows me what the #2 vauum port is?
  15. So the Bird left me stranded tonight. Here's what happened... I rode from my office down to the ferry-boat without any problem. After the crossing I started the bike and let it warm up a bit as the ferry workers unloaded the cyclists. Then I rode off an not a half a mile later the bike started to sputter. At first it seemed like my clutch was failing because the power loss was kind of jerky. Then it just sputtered down and died. I pulled in the clutch, coasted as far as I could, and came to rest right beside a fucking bridge barrier that left me about ten inches of space to push the bike. When I finally got clear of the bridge, I pushed way to the side and tried to figure out what happened. It was totally dark so I couldn't see much. When I tried starting it the bike would start (only with the choke on) but die after just a few second. If it did stay running for more than five seconds, any movement of the throttle immediately killed it. Then I tried calling AAA and they told me they don't cover bikes unless you have a special rider. Nice, they could have mentioned something ten fucking years ago when I started paying them. I called a local tow company and they sent a flatbed with a bike dolly. I'm safe at home now, on my third Henry Weinhard's Hefeweizen. My bike is a 1997 with 38,000 miles. This really seems like a fuel issue but I'm not sure where to start looking. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. I've been commuting on this bike for the past few years without so much as a hiccup. The las time I got fuel was a week ago and nothing has happened recently that should affect my fuel supply (that I know of) :icon_think: Thanks, Peter
  16. This might be an obvious thing to most but when I removed the blolwn bulb it wasn't initially obvious that the adaptor was on there. Maybe it was the three beers, who knows. I got home last night and, low and behold, there on the old bulb was the OEM adaptor. Once I popped it onto the new bulb it all made sense. Thanks for the tip! Oh, and I bought a GE Super Bright bulb from a local parts store...so far it seems to be visibly brighter than the buld it replaced.
  17. Damn, I took the bulb out last night and rode in this morning with the high beam on. Guess I didn't even se the adaptor. Thanks RB
  18. I just tried to put a new H7 into my low beam lens to replace the one that was burnt out. I bought it from a local parts supply store and when I try to install it, the damn plugs are too close together. I thought that an H7 is a standard plug? The pins on the buld I removed are about 4 mm wider apart than the new one I have in hand. What the hell? Any thoughts?
  19. How the hell do you get the handlebar weights and rubber bushings out? Mine have moved and need to be replace or put back in place... :oops:
  20. What is the 10th digit of your VIN? That tells you the model year. See below for a reference... A 1980 2010 L 1990 2020 Y 2000 2030 B 1981 2011 M 1991 2021 1 2001 2031 C 1982 2012 N 1992 2022 2 2002 2032 D 1983 2013 P 1993 2023 3 2003 2033 E 1984 2014 R 1994 2024 4 2004 2034 F 1985 2015 S 1995 2025 5 2005 2035 G 1986 2016 T 1996 2026 6 2006 2036 H 1987 2017 V 1997 2027 7 2007 2037 J 1988 2018 W 1998 2028 8 2008 2038 K 1989 2019 X 1999 2029 9 2009 2039
  21. I've got the stock 180/55/17 on the rear. I've installed the Wilbers shock but haven't yet installed the springs. Therefore, I haven't taken the time to carefully set my sag. You might be onto something there...and I never noticed it with the Conti's.
  22. Anyone have a good source for aftermarket screens? I'm thinking of replacing the stock screen with a ZG DB.
  23. Nope. I was standing beside the technician when he mounted and balanced the tire so I know it was done right. Can the weight slip?
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